Where is the best place to buy vacuum tubes?

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classiccaprice

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I tested the tubes today in the Philco console I posted about about a month ago. (Thanks Dave for letting me borrow the tester!) Tube 7591 which connects to the speaker, has a short in it. I hope that this is the cause of the consoles issue. So, heres my questions to the audiophiles out there, where is the best place to buy vacuum tubes? 7591 is fairly expensive, so I'm trying to find one in decent condition for a decent price. Thanks fellas....

P.S. It's a genuine Philco tube from 1962
"When renewing insist on a genuine Philco Tube"
guess they didn't have a crystal ball... lol
 
It

is not easy to short tubes, really not.
Takes either a pretty nasty knock while in use or an enormous knock when cold...or a very simple failure of another component.
Before you risk a new tube, may I suggest you work back and test the values of all the other components involved...any clue as to what is "shorted"? If just the heater filament, that would be, given the circumstances of course, not bad.
Let's see. A blown cap. could do it as might a fried resistor...I don't think a short in the output transformer or speaker could do it, but am not an expert.
There are a few alternatives, but unless you go with this exact tube, it means new bias...and that means the other tetrode, too(gonna have to anyhow).
I find three manufacturers which *claim* bias compatibility and stereo matching. Below the link to one decent resource - 29.95$ plus shipping for a matched set in 2008 is, sadly, not bad.
Note: This is a tiny bit different physically, should be no problem, but check the dimensions. Same pin out.
At this point, I really think you need to have the chassis pulled and that circuit checked. I've made no secret all along that the amp. is the best part of this beautiful console. Well worth restoring.

http://store.tubedepot.com/jj-7591s.html
 
Hamfests?

if you have any 'hamfests' or 'ham flea markets' (amateur radio) around your way, you may find them there.
 
Different country, different meaning

I read it as vacuum cleaner (extension) tubes!

We would call them valves, as in Thermionic Valves.
 
Ebay, eBay, eBay. Also try Craigslist and Kiij.

In all instances search under a variety of spellings and wade through lots of listings. Often sellers haven't a clue as to what they have, but you can sometimes spy what you need in the advert photographs.

Also try contacting eBay sellers who seem to have many auctions on vacuum tubes. Just as we here love appliances, there are "tube heads" out there and some one may be able to hook you up.

Best of luck,

Launderess
 
There's a place in Arizona that I've bought tubes from - back in the days when it was mail-order, not internet based.

I'll have to search for the name and web link...
 
If you haven't visited already, check out Antiqueradios.com or Audiokarma.org. I've seen posts there in the past that indicate there are members of these groups who have tubes to sell, trade, or just give away.
 
1950 GE Radio

Hey all.......I have my grandpa' old GE tube radio that i would like to get restored. (Model 409) Anyone have any ideas as to who restores old tube radios? Sure would like to get it working again.......i loved listening to his radio when i was growing up.......
Mark
 
Mark, there are people out there who can restore your radio. Try the sites I mentioned above to see if there is anyone in your area who can do it or recommend someone.

Ralph
 
so, I put the set back together after testing all the tubes... now all I can get on the radio are very quiet (at full volume) crackling radio stations.... I feel like every step forward I take two back.

Do you think it's a bad connection?

Also, anyone know of a good site to explain restoring this beauty? Or a book "Restoring your tube console/amp for dummies"
-replacing caps, troubleshooting tips, etc.

you all have been so much help, I know that I can do it with your support!

thank you all so much!
 
Typical

Welcome to the world of repairing vintage radios! Feel the brain cells working?
Check to be sure you put all the tubes back in the correct spot.
Other than that, secondary troubles induced while fixing the first trouble is very common. Check everything again. Wiggle every switch.
After that I'd be pulling out the Sams Photofact and the scope.
 
I posted on antiqueradios. Hopefully I'll get a response there.

Something odd with the tube, I cleaned the contacts of the shorted tube, and it tested fine. Go figure... The unit is till not working right, but at least it's one item of the list. I guess we'll see! Thanks fellas!
 
Will,

A "scope" is an oscilloscope. You can diagnose and repair many problems with them.
I think, at this point, you needn't worry about one.
Let's see.
You've already done an excellent job so far, so you're gonna get it solved. It helps that you have a good piece of equipment in front of you. Pretty, too.
I will look around and see what I can find in English on tubes for you, but for starters, try googling "valves" instead of tubes. In German and English, we talk about Röhre/Tubes. In Britspeak, they call them valves. There is an awful lot of really good stuff written by antique collectors in British English.
In order to recap. you really just need to be able to follow directions, work safely, use a VoltOhmMeter and soldier cleanly. As long as you remember to never work on a live circuit and always check your work, you can't go wrong.
My experience is that a tube is shorted or it is not. If yours tests both way, something is weird. Cleaning contacts is always a good idea, but I still would still replace the tetrodes.
Good Luck - I'll see if we have anything on them in English in the technical library this morning.
 
I found a source for 7591 audio power tubes-try the link.Its a muscian oriented site-they carry tubes for equipment.Look under "Other" and you will get a link to tubes.And they have 7591.I remember these in other hi-fi and Muscical instrument amps-found some in a Lowerey organ-in the audio output stages for the speakers.And I have seen them in receivers made by Scott,Fisher,and Sansui.Its a good compact power tube that can provide up to 40watts push-pull.I have a McIntosh amp that uses them-#225.I conveerted the amp to use El-34 since at the time I acquired the amp 7591 wasn't available anywhere.Now there is a source!I could reconvert the Mac amp back to the orig.

http://www.ehx.com/2008/
 
New tubes! Cool Rex, thanks!

Kevin, Thanks for the help and moral support!

Now I just have to face those fears with the caps. I seem to vaguely recall a 'how to' type site for cap replacement posted here a few months back. I thought I saved it, but I can't seem to find it. Anyone still have it?
 
here's the link to recap

I think this is what you wanted. There's not too much work involved, it is just a case of working carefully and safely.
If you can get Sam's photofacts, that would help. Try your library, first. But if you can't, you can still do it - just be very sure both channels get the exact same specs.

When you do the crossovers, remember that newer caps are physically much smaller, so be sure they can't vibrate and rattle when those 101 strings get going. I like to tie things together, not too tightly, rather than anchor with glue. But a drop of epoxy here or there can sometimes make your life easier.
Since you are going to have some RF circuits to do once this amp is done, I suggest you practice getting things clean and connections short and stress free. Never install a component under strain.
Here's where some folks will disagree with me. I work a lot on static discharge sensitive equipment, so use a soldiering station. In your case, a simple, dual heat 15/40 watt iron from Radio Shack will do you just fine. Radio grade soldier is a must, the kind with the rosin core. Try to get the thinner stuff which comes in a plastic "tube" - you pull it out of a hole in the cap.
Always make sure the metal bond is tight first, then heat the bond and melt the soldier onto it, not the tip of the iron. Let it cool for a few seconds before moving it. It should be glossy and slightly overfilled.
I would like to hear from the experts if he should add some protection to the cathodes of the 7591s? See this link: http://www.antiqueradio.org/fish02.htm
Mention it cause of the "short".

http://www.antiqueradio.org/recap.htm
 
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