here's the link to recap
I think this is what you wanted. There's not too much work involved, it is just a case of working carefully and safely.
If you can get Sam's photofacts, that would help. Try your library, first. But if you can't, you can still do it - just be very sure both channels get the exact same specs.
When you do the crossovers, remember that newer caps are physically much smaller, so be sure they can't vibrate and rattle when those 101 strings get going. I like to tie things together, not too tightly, rather than anchor with glue. But a drop of epoxy here or there can sometimes make your life easier.
Since you are going to have some RF circuits to do once this amp is done, I suggest you practice getting things clean and connections short and stress free. Never install a component under strain.
Here's where some folks will disagree with me. I work a lot on static discharge sensitive equipment, so use a soldiering station. In your case, a simple, dual heat 15/40 watt iron from Radio Shack will do you just fine. Radio grade soldier is a must, the kind with the rosin core. Try to get the thinner stuff which comes in a plastic "tube" - you pull it out of a hole in the cap.
Always make sure the metal bond is tight first, then heat the bond and melt the soldier onto it, not the tip of the iron. Let it cool for a few seconds before moving it. It should be glossy and slightly overfilled.
I would like to hear from the experts if he should add some protection to the cathodes of the 7591s? See this link:
http://www.antiqueradio.org/fish02.htm
Mention it cause of the "short".
http://www.antiqueradio.org/recap.htm