kenmoreguy89
Well-known member
Hi everyone.
So after fixing center post seal leak and kind of refurbishing my 1984 whirlpool it ran smooth for I'd say 30-40 loads.
I was washing a load of darks the other day and as far as I noticed it went on without any problems, I was in the kitchen and I didn't hear any weird noises or anything.
I forgot the softener so I ran another rinse cycle.
It fills with water and when it's time to start agitating I hear a clunky noise and it started agitating slower.
Immediately put it on drain and have it doing a very brief spin just not to take stuff out dripping wet.
I then try it empty and while agitating the tub spins and agitate at the same time.
I stop it put it on drain and wash out again and go slow now so I select gentle cycle it goes even slower but it's only two speed machine so it means it's going under effort.
I immediately realised there must be something wrong with the the cycle wash-spin and brake mode shifting in the wig wag system.
It kept having this clicking noise all the time.
I think I figured out what the problem is with it but I need help from experts and I have some questions.
The problem apparently is with the wash-spin mode cam bar and cam shaft.
I tried to play with it trying to move it back and forth and it was very very hard to be moved, I lubed it and I also lubed the cam shaft.
By spraying cam shaft with WD40 black stuff came out as I played with the cam bar back and forth causing cam shaft to go up and down.
Very odd black grime.
My guess was it may have gotten hardened to shift kinda stuck by belt rubber dust?
May it be?
And it seemed it got somehow free after wd40 but still a bit too hard to budge.
First question is, is it normal to be so hard or must be easy to engage and disengage and go up and down as the cam bar moves?
The other problem is with the cam bar plunger, it got somehow distorted and pin keeps clicking to the cam bar slot and gearcase also. That is the clicking noise I kept hearing.
Now, the cam bar seems to never be completely pushed or pulled all the way...
I'm not sure if it is because the plunger isn't doing its job as it got distorted (somehow) or because it got to hard and that is also what caused the plunger and pin to get bad.
Do they get hard and for which reasons?
Another peculiar thing is that when I manually push cam bar to be on spin mode and I stop the machine and the solenoid release the plunger it does not pull the cam bar completely back hence not engaging the tub brake...
It also happened that during spin even though being powered the plunger and pin would catch the cam bar pull it back on wash mode and then push it back again in spin mode intermittently.
The times I tried it and it was going slower I think was because cam bar was halfway so it was going with the brake on.
But solenoid seem always powered so I don't think it's a problem with the solenoid that seems to be powered as supposed.
That is all due to the distorted plunger and pin I guess.
Anyways main questions are:
Why is it so hard to be moved?
Why plunger may have gotten distorted.
Could there be some other issues like problems inside the tranny?
Is it easy to remove the plunger or I need to disassemble all the machine again?
As I said i just fixed the tub center post seal by sealing everything...I would hate to remove all the sealant and remove everything again. And basically repeat the same job as well as removing all the transmission assembly.
Thanks
So after fixing center post seal leak and kind of refurbishing my 1984 whirlpool it ran smooth for I'd say 30-40 loads.
I was washing a load of darks the other day and as far as I noticed it went on without any problems, I was in the kitchen and I didn't hear any weird noises or anything.
I forgot the softener so I ran another rinse cycle.
It fills with water and when it's time to start agitating I hear a clunky noise and it started agitating slower.
Immediately put it on drain and have it doing a very brief spin just not to take stuff out dripping wet.
I then try it empty and while agitating the tub spins and agitate at the same time.
I stop it put it on drain and wash out again and go slow now so I select gentle cycle it goes even slower but it's only two speed machine so it means it's going under effort.
I immediately realised there must be something wrong with the the cycle wash-spin and brake mode shifting in the wig wag system.
It kept having this clicking noise all the time.
I think I figured out what the problem is with it but I need help from experts and I have some questions.
The problem apparently is with the wash-spin mode cam bar and cam shaft.
I tried to play with it trying to move it back and forth and it was very very hard to be moved, I lubed it and I also lubed the cam shaft.
By spraying cam shaft with WD40 black stuff came out as I played with the cam bar back and forth causing cam shaft to go up and down.
Very odd black grime.
My guess was it may have gotten hardened to shift kinda stuck by belt rubber dust?
May it be?
And it seemed it got somehow free after wd40 but still a bit too hard to budge.
First question is, is it normal to be so hard or must be easy to engage and disengage and go up and down as the cam bar moves?
The other problem is with the cam bar plunger, it got somehow distorted and pin keeps clicking to the cam bar slot and gearcase also. That is the clicking noise I kept hearing.
Now, the cam bar seems to never be completely pushed or pulled all the way...
I'm not sure if it is because the plunger isn't doing its job as it got distorted (somehow) or because it got to hard and that is also what caused the plunger and pin to get bad.
Do they get hard and for which reasons?
Another peculiar thing is that when I manually push cam bar to be on spin mode and I stop the machine and the solenoid release the plunger it does not pull the cam bar completely back hence not engaging the tub brake...
It also happened that during spin even though being powered the plunger and pin would catch the cam bar pull it back on wash mode and then push it back again in spin mode intermittently.
The times I tried it and it was going slower I think was because cam bar was halfway so it was going with the brake on.
But solenoid seem always powered so I don't think it's a problem with the solenoid that seems to be powered as supposed.
That is all due to the distorted plunger and pin I guess.
Anyways main questions are:
Why is it so hard to be moved?
Why plunger may have gotten distorted.
Could there be some other issues like problems inside the tranny?
Is it easy to remove the plunger or I need to disassemble all the machine again?
As I said i just fixed the tub center post seal by sealing everything...I would hate to remove all the sealant and remove everything again. And basically repeat the same job as well as removing all the transmission assembly.
Thanks