npolite
Member
Hi All,
I wanted to make a post that may help someone else in the future if they come across these symptoms.
Last year I replaced the upper tube seal on the support as well as on the drive basket. I started getting leaks just a year after the install. On top of that my neutral drain went which of course you see the symptoms of the tub spinning as part of the drain. What I didn't know is that this failing part could also show signs of draining but never spinning the clothes out. I also had an issue where the washer was shaking a lot on the spin cycle and moving around on the floor. I tried replacing the neutral drain but as I was draining the gear oil didn't see that the main gearcase cog skipped a tooth. I didn't test the forward and reverse on the input shaft after assembly and the gear cracked when I ran the washer. One person on YT (LAApplianceGuy) mentioned to me that the failure of the seals within a year is most likely the bearings.
Before fixing up the direct drive, I ordered an LG WM5500 and seeing how little water that used was so fed up I rebuilt the direct drive. Appliance Parts Pros has a video on this but I can tell you if you do not take the support off the washer you are going to spend hours trying to get the old bearings out and the new ones in. They also mention that the bearing from the top of the tube needs to go 1 1/4" down. The top seal goes into the tube 1/2" so there is going to be a gap. I am still not convinced that this is the way to do it as I am certain that my old bearings were flush, but Whirlpool's install document states that there should be a gap. Time will tell.
After installing the new bearings (kit), a new clutch and a new transmission I have a fully functional washer. It is quiet and does not shake any longer and the neutral drain works. All in I was $180 for the parts. If all goes well I will buy a new inner tub as it is rusting and enamel paint isn't going to keep the rust at bay.
LG is coming to pick up the front load washer. I know that there is a pressure screw which can alter the amount of water but didn't want to chance it and then be stuck with something I didn't want to use. We need for the government to allow us to choose our water levels and California should not dictate what the rest of the country should use. My clothes still stunk of BO after washing them in the LG. There is a reason why LG allows 3 extra rinse cycles on these washers. The direct drive uses 3 times more water on the medium setting over the LG. I will continue to fix the Whirlpool until I am no longer able to find parts.
I wanted to make a post that may help someone else in the future if they come across these symptoms.
Last year I replaced the upper tube seal on the support as well as on the drive basket. I started getting leaks just a year after the install. On top of that my neutral drain went which of course you see the symptoms of the tub spinning as part of the drain. What I didn't know is that this failing part could also show signs of draining but never spinning the clothes out. I also had an issue where the washer was shaking a lot on the spin cycle and moving around on the floor. I tried replacing the neutral drain but as I was draining the gear oil didn't see that the main gearcase cog skipped a tooth. I didn't test the forward and reverse on the input shaft after assembly and the gear cracked when I ran the washer. One person on YT (LAApplianceGuy) mentioned to me that the failure of the seals within a year is most likely the bearings.
Before fixing up the direct drive, I ordered an LG WM5500 and seeing how little water that used was so fed up I rebuilt the direct drive. Appliance Parts Pros has a video on this but I can tell you if you do not take the support off the washer you are going to spend hours trying to get the old bearings out and the new ones in. They also mention that the bearing from the top of the tube needs to go 1 1/4" down. The top seal goes into the tube 1/2" so there is going to be a gap. I am still not convinced that this is the way to do it as I am certain that my old bearings were flush, but Whirlpool's install document states that there should be a gap. Time will tell.
After installing the new bearings (kit), a new clutch and a new transmission I have a fully functional washer. It is quiet and does not shake any longer and the neutral drain works. All in I was $180 for the parts. If all goes well I will buy a new inner tub as it is rusting and enamel paint isn't going to keep the rust at bay.
LG is coming to pick up the front load washer. I know that there is a pressure screw which can alter the amount of water but didn't want to chance it and then be stuck with something I didn't want to use. We need for the government to allow us to choose our water levels and California should not dictate what the rest of the country should use. My clothes still stunk of BO after washing them in the LG. There is a reason why LG allows 3 extra rinse cycles on these washers. The direct drive uses 3 times more water on the medium setting over the LG. I will continue to fix the Whirlpool until I am no longer able to find parts.
