Whirlpool/Kenmore Drain Time

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Chetlaham

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Why did belt driven washers have a 4 minute drain period despite draining in well under 2 minutes? The BDs I used drained about as fast as a DD washers, but spent over 2 extra minutes in drain. Why was this done? Was this to assure there was no chance of the washer going into spin with even a bit of water in the tub?

What would happen if a BD washer was put into spin with the tub full or partially full of water?
 
I assumed the drain time for Kenmores & Whirlpools increased from 2 to 4 minutes when the large capacity tubs came into being. Kenmores with standard tubs drained for 2 minutes.

Having said that, my large capacity 1984 Whirlpool, which had a 4-minute drain time always seemed to be finished in 2 minutes.

Someone with more knowledge about this may be able to clarify the drain time issue.
 
 
Four-min drain periods came into play on 18lb super-capacity models, as stated above.  Standard-capacity models were always 2-mins, as I recall, including when both sizes were in the line.

The longer time, of course, was to insure full drain of the larger volume of water involved in a full load across a variety of conditions that could potentially affect the flow rate, such as drain hose restriction, a high standpipe, clogging of the self-cleaning filter accumulated over a period of years.  Possibly also to allow for some "drip time" to lessen the volume of water the pump had to handle at the start of spin of the larger loads of highly-absorbant items such as towels.

Our 1976 18-pounder drained a full load in just-about-right-at two minutes for several years then got a tad slower as it aged.

The spin shift solenoid circuit passes through the water level switch, and it won't engage unless the pressure switch contacts are reset to "empty tub" state.  Attempting to spin with water in the tub will give a neutral drain until the level drops to the reset-point, then it will typically drop out of spin when the water swirls up enough to trigger the switch again ... possibly shift in-out of spin a couple/few times until enough water is drained so the switch no longer triggers on the swirl-up.  The only way to force a spin-drain on a belt-drive is to manually reset the pressure switch by holding it at Reset position if a variable type or between positions for switches of the fixed-level(s) type.
 
Great info!

One question though, does the basket drive have any means of clutching? If a BD if forced to spin with a full tub, would the basket drive or belt slip of would it cause the motor to slow down?
 
Basically what happens when it engages into the spin, the cam bar for the spin has a dip in it and when the solenoid engages, it pushes back the cam bar and causes the clutch to drop down along with the spin tube onto the pulley below it and the tub would begin to pick up speed in about 10 to 15 seconds time.
 
I've read in the Kenmore washer operating instructions that they specifically advised NOT to put it into spin while the tub still had water in it, in order to avoid putting "an unnecessary strain on the motor".
 
I will say Whirlpool belt drives never had issues with slipping into spin unlike the direct drives when used on a short wash cycle along with it being on a cold day. Plus the neutral drains tend to go out on the direct drives, belt drives never have the neutral drain fail on them unless the pump fails or the spin solenoid/plunger breaks not allowing it to disengage but other than those 2 things, the neutral drain never fails on a belt drive.
 
"wigwag solenoids fail and plungers break (both agitate and spin), moving wires break."

Those are all easier to fix/replace vs pulling the transmission and R&R worn neutral drain cams and levers. The pump is much easier to replace on DD's though. The coupling is also easier to replace vs a belt replacement/adjustment on the BD's.
 
Sometimes I think everyone in the 1980’s was sort of copying Maytag in a way since Maytag had a standing chassis with a cabinet over it since the direct drives and Speed Queen washers of the 1980’s and 1990’s all had a standing chassis with a cabinet over it. Plus Whirlpool and Speed Queen washers had front access by that point in the 80’s and 90’s.
 

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