Some things are not even worth half of the buying price

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Chetlaham

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Take this video I came across. These mini toasters used to be $10 originally on Amazon and Ebay, yet have now jumped to $30 despite being identical in quality and make. I am almost certain the UL sticker on the bottom is stretched out with a few golden samples.

https://www.amazon.com/DMTO100GBRD04-Toaster-Cookies-Paninis-Feature/dp/B07N9K87XB/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=v4EKG&content-id=amzn1.sym.4efc43db-939e-4a80-abaf-50c6a6b8c631:amzn1.symc.5a16118f-86f0-44cd-8e3e-6c5f82df43d0&pf_rd_p=4efc43db-939e-4a80-abaf-50c6a6b8c631&pf_rd_r=1F37JB7PAXN1CN5XTG0G&pd_rd_wg=E3mZn&pd_rd_r=cadf9d80-43f3-4597-8d11-db3f0d9ce687&ref_=pd_hp_d_atf_ci_mcx_mr_ca_hp_atf_d&th=1

These ovens are very small, but also very poor quality and dangerous. Every electrical connection is spot soldiered on incorrectly ready to come off, the shell housing is too thin, the heating element coils touch and short out in certain places in others to far apart, there is no thermal fuse, no equipment ground, no grease on the door hinges, no spring guards, neon is just glued in place, screws stripped out in certain places. Knock off switch timer.






Yes the oven might work for a few months in most cases (might), but given the atrocious quality and hazardous build these are certainly not worth $30. The most I'd pay is $12 if I am feeling really generous.

I wish people would call out such junk for the price gouging that it is.
 
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Take this video I came across. These mini toasters used to be $10 originally on Amazon and Ebay, yet have now jumped to $30 despite being identical in quality and make. I am almost certain the UL sticker on the bottom is stretched out with a few golden samples.

https://www.amazon.com/DMTO100GBRD04-Toaster-Cookies-Paninis-Feature/dp/B07N9K87XB/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=v4EKG&content-id=amzn1.sym.4efc43db-939e-4a80-abaf-50c6a6b8c631:amzn1.symc.5a16118f-86f0-44cd-8e3e-6c5f82df43d0&pf_rd_p=4efc43db-939e-4a80-abaf-50c6a6b8c631&pf_rd_r=1F37JB7PAXN1CN5XTG0G&pd_rd_wg=E3mZn&pd_rd_r=cadf9d80-43f3-4597-8d11-db3f0d9ce687&ref_=pd_hp_d_atf_ci_mcx_mr_ca_hp_atf_d&th=1

These ovens are very small, but also very poor quality and dangerous. Every electrical connection is spot soldiered on incorrectly ready to come off, the shell housing is too thin, the heating element coils touch and short out in certain places in others to far apart, there is no thermal fuse, no equipment ground, no grease on the door hinges, no spring guards, neon is just glued in place, screws stripped out in certain places. Knock off switch timer.






Yes the oven might work for a few months in most cases (might), but given the atrocious quality and hazardous build these are certainly not worth $30. The most I'd pay is $12 if I am feeling really generous.

I wish people would call out such junk for the price gouging that it is.

I wish toasters toasted to perfection the way customers wanted.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Take this video I came across. These mini toasters used to be $10 originally on Amazon and Ebay, yet have now jumped to $30 despite being identical in quality and make. I am almost certain the UL sticker on the bottom is stretched out with a few golden samples.

https://www.amazon.com/DMTO100GBRD04-Toaster-Cookies-Paninis-Feature/dp/B07N9K87XB/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=v4EKG&content-id=amzn1.sym.4efc43db-939e-4a80-abaf-50c6a6b8c631:amzn1.symc.5a16118f-86f0-44cd-8e3e-6c5f82df43d0&pf_rd_p=4efc43db-939e-4a80-abaf-50c6a6b8c631&pf_rd_r=1F37JB7PAXN1CN5XTG0G&pd_rd_wg=E3mZn&pd_rd_r=cadf9d80-43f3-4597-8d11-db3f0d9ce687&ref_=pd_hp_d_atf_ci_mcx_mr_ca_hp_atf_d&th=1

These ovens are very small, but also very poor quality and dangerous. Every electrical connection is spot soldiered on incorrectly ready to come off, the shell housing is too thin, the heating element coils touch and short out in certain places in others to far apart, there is no thermal fuse, no equipment ground, no grease on the door hinges, no spring guards, neon is just glued in place, screws stripped out in certain places. Knock off switch timer.






Yes the oven might work for a few months in most cases (might), but given the atrocious quality and hazardous build these are certainly not worth $30. The most I'd pay is $12 if I am feeling really generous.

I wish people would call out such junk for the price gouging that it is.

Plain Garbage.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Back in 2007, I purchased a Hamilton Beach-Proctor Silex 2-slice toaster.
Model 22450 - Series B0270B
I paid about $30 for it.
It's been giving me consistantly perfect toast every day since then.
Consumer Reports back then gave it 5 stars, which is why I got it, since my old toaster bit the dust.

I recently found out that there was a recall in 2008 on a slew of their toasters, and that same model 22450, but with the series 2203.
I guess mine wasn't on the list, thankfully, since it's been great so far (for something made in china)

HBPS 22450 toaster.jpg
 
Useless as an oven IMO w/o temperature control. I use my Breville for baking nearly everything that fits in it.

Standalone vertical toasters are more efficient and functional as a toaster being that the elements are positioned closer to the bread.

Signed: Goofy Glenn



Done:

1758077205046.png


The thermostat would have a probe and sense directly into the cavity instead of sensing the wall or the temperature of the control compartment. There would be a 550*F high limit cutout resting against the cavity wall and a thermal fuse. Ready light in parellel with the thermostat lights when the variable thermostat is open.
 
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Back in 2007, I purchased a Hamilton Beach-Proctor Silex 2-slice toaster.
Model 22450 - Series B0270B
I paid about $30 for it.
It's been giving me consistantly perfect toast every day since then.
Consumer Reports back then gave it 5 stars, which is why I got it, since my old toaster bit the dust.

I recently found out that there was a recall in 2008 on a slew of their toasters, and that same model 22450, but with the series 2203.
I guess mine wasn't on the list, thankfully, since it's been great so far (for something made in china)

View attachment 319038
Several years ago my friend Jay had a HB toaster with a plastic case. One day it caught fire on the countertop, and set a roll of paper towels on fire. He unplugged it, and put the burning items out with the sink faucet sprayer. If he had gone into his bedroom or bath he may have been trapped in his burning condo.
 
Several years ago my friend Jay had a HB toaster with a plastic case. One day it caught fire on the countertop, and set a roll of paper towels on fire. He unplugged it, and put the burning items out with the sink faucet sprayer. If he had gone into his bedroom or bath he may have been trapped in his burning condo.
My toaster, pictured in my post #5, also has an outer case made of white plastic.
The recalled models from what I know had defective power switches that had contacts that would weld themselves together, keeping the unit powered ON, even when the toast popped up.
Luckily, my model is not part of that recall, being the "B" series with a different power switch.
 
I'm gonna hug my ole reliable Black & Decker toaster oven till it dies.
Call me a cheapwad LOL!

View attachment 319046
i have this same toaster oven and love it,...however the Toast start / stop switch has stopped working I have not taken it apart yet ...but it feels like it just doesn't engage.
the oven still works using the Temp dial, so i have been using that . if anyone has any experience repairing the toast start/ stop switch i would be grateful to hear...
these are good appliances and last a long time
 
i have this same toaster oven and love it,...however the Toast start / stop switch has stopped working I have not taken it apart yet ...but it feels like it just doesn't engage.
the oven still works using the Temp dial, so i have been using that . if anyone has any experience repairing the toast start/ stop switch i would be grateful to hear...
these are good appliances and last a long time
The start toast switch is a latching assembly that is held in place, controlled by a solenoid when powered on.
The "light-dark" knob is a potentiometer that controls a small time-delay circuit board.
The darker the toast, the longer it stays on.
When the timer is "done", it activates that solenoid, unlatching it, to stop toasting.
 

Some things are not even worth half of the buying price​

Couldn't pay me enough money to use any residential washer made in the last 30 years.
 
The start toast switch is a latching assembly that is held in place, controlled by a solenoid when powered on.
The "light-dark" knob is a potentiometer that controls a small time-delay circuit board.
The darker the toast, the longer it stays on.
When the timer is "done", it activates that solenoid, unlatching it, to stop toasting.


To complicated. This is my ideal toaster oven. No electronics, no solenoids, no complex timing mechanisms. To be honest it might have a third thermostat in place of a thermal fuse which are known to fail at nuisance.


1758147324721.png

The top and bottom wattage might need to be adjusted for evenness, but you get the idea.
 
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To complicated. This is my ideal toaster oven. No electronics, no solenoids, no complex timing mechanisms. To be honest it might have a third thermostat in place of a thermal fuse which are known to fail at nuisance.


View attachment 319064

The top and bottom wattage might need to be adjusted for evenness, but you get the idea.

Actually, the little toast timing board is elegantly simple in my B&D.
I have it set on the "medium" setting, and never had to readjust the knob in all these years.
I suspect that clb3's issue maybe some gumming up of the internal mech due to grease or a minor problem with the circuit board (timing capacitor?)

Does the switch latch to turn on power?
Switch contacts not pitted?
Are the internal weld joints good?
This we do not know yet.
toasteroven timer.jpg
 
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Actually, the little toast timing board is elegantly simple in my B&D.
I have it set on the "medium" setting, and never had to readjust the knob in all these years.
I suspect that clb3's issue maybe some gumming up of the internal mech due to grease or a minor problem with the circuit board (timing capacitor?)

Does the switch latch to turn on power?
Switch contacts not pitted?
Are the internal weld joints good?
This we do not know yet.

No offense, but thats just to complicated and unreliable. And flimsy all around.

This is what I like to use to make toast:

1758155593070.jpeg


No exposed parts, no grease build up, fewer moving parts, no electronics. Easy to replace as a whole assembly. Also the bare steel (?) wire jumping around is a major sign of cost cutting throw away construction. In my world I like to see an insulated wire harness with latching spade connectors.

1758155889942.webp
 
LOL ok Chet!
But to ME, the B&D is simple, and it's worked fine for almost 2 decades.

Almost two decades. I'd like to see at least 30 years, 40 years should be the minimum target.

For example, those capacitors have a finite life expectancy right off the shelf and are degraded by heat even more. If that control board failed while you could solider on new passive components it looks like a niche part in that it is NLA. Whereas a timer switch can be ordered off Amazon.

Does your toaster that a thermal fuse btw? Just out of curiosity, it does not matter all that much.

As for the thermostatic control this is at minimum what I imagine.

1758156715079.jpeg



And of course, the cluster of high limits:






1758156453954.jpeg


1758156553325.jpeg




Everything could and would be ordered online with universal mounting, screws and wire spade connectors. The whole wire harness could be ordered online as I imagine it.
 
Toaster ovens are elementary simple to me.

Here's a custom designed stereo amp that I finished designing and testing last year.
"High End" audiophile quality, for better performance and much less than the cost of something rediculously sold otherwhere.

AMP2 DETAILS.JPGAmp2 front.JPG
 
Almost two decades. I'd like to see at least 30 years, 40 years should be the minimum target.

For example, those capacitors have a finite life expectancy right off the shelf and are degraded by heat even more. I

Does your toaster that a thermal fuse btw?
Not clear in my photo, but there's only one capacitor that can eventually fail, the tiny black one.
Also not clear are the venilation slots on the bottom below that little board to control overheating.
 
Well, that is superb :)

Obviously electronics are both your talent and specialty.

The board with the big black cap and two large resistors is the power supply board?
There's two big black caps but the lighting is bad.
That is the high current power supply and power amp module.
There are several other "regulated" power supplies for the other modules in the chassis, including two smaller power transformers for them.
Isolating the power sections and preamp modules with their own power, is key to eliminating distortion.
I go to great lengths to insure excellent performance.
And under testing, measuring, I'm not happy unless it does what I designed it to do.
Like I've said before, I'm a picky SOB. LOL!
 
Not picky, quality is an intelligent effort. You absolutely know what you are doing and are doing it with respectable elegance. I'd pay you to OEM audio equipment if I needed it.
Thanks Chet.
Being retired since 2016 now, these projects help keep me alive, and sharp-minded.
As you know, I like simplicity, performance, and reliability.
And as for superficiality and appearance, I tend to keep things clean-looking, yet professional.
I've got a slew of projects that kept me "off the streets" before and after retiring.
Let's see.....
9 radios...
4 console stereo/phonos...
A custom "tube" amp with stunning performance....
Assorted other non audio projects that I have to count...
50 or so vintage radios, all restored to like new or better....

I was born with a soldering iron in my left hand, people have said they'll find me dead one day with it still in hand.....LOL!
 
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