Kenmore Dryer Maybe 20 years old No Heat
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Gas or electric?
I believe the leading 592 indicates it's made by Samsung for Kenmore/Sears.
I believe the leading 592 indicates it's made by Samsung for Kenmore/Sears.
It says electric in the first post but I missed it too. Thanks, Samsung, that's good info.
Ahh, yes ... so ...
Check for proper voltage at the power outlet. Check for burned connectors/wires at the cord terminals on the machine. Check that the element isn't broken, or shorted to ground which may also blow a thermal fuse. Check the high-limit thermostat on the element housing. Check the thermal fuse on the element housing. My sister's Samsung dryer has the motor power going through the thermal fuse on the blower housing so her unit won't run at all if that protector blows ... can't say about yours.
Other suspect items are the motor start switch (power to the element passes through a circuit on it which prevents the element from operating until the motor is up to full speed) and the control board.
I'm not finding parts diagram sources on a search. SearsParts US site doesn't recognize the Canadian model number.
Check for proper voltage at the power outlet. Check for burned connectors/wires at the cord terminals on the machine. Check that the element isn't broken, or shorted to ground which may also blow a thermal fuse. Check the high-limit thermostat on the element housing. Check the thermal fuse on the element housing. My sister's Samsung dryer has the motor power going through the thermal fuse on the blower housing so her unit won't run at all if that protector blows ... can't say about yours.
Other suspect items are the motor start switch (power to the element passes through a circuit on it which prevents the element from operating until the motor is up to full speed) and the control board.
I'm not finding parts diagram sources on a search. SearsParts US site doesn't recognize the Canadian model number.
Thanks.
Yes it is a Kenmore made by samsung.
The high limit therm , and the fuse tested good continuity. The element showed open circuit.
I got the part number from Reliable Parts, and looked it up on utube. A video walked me through the whole replacement; saved me some exploration time. I replaced just the element itself. It's working fine again.
Thanks DADoES.
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