Recent content by tarantulae

Brad, Sorry its been some time. PC7 has held strong and multiple washes including towels, jeans and thick clothing items and no problems with my wringer. Hurray! Here is a quick video of it agitating (empty, since I imagine most people here don't want to see a load of dirty diapers).

Last update. PC7 did the trick. It was thick enough I could cover the axle in it and then put the roll back on. So far 1 load later and its holding tight. JB weld probably was strong enough but was too runny to stay in place. PC7 is like a thick paste that stays where you put it. I'll see if I...

My other thought is to try replacing the axle with new rolled stock. I'd just need to notch the end to fit into the drive portion and cut to the right length. Part of why its so hard to glue my roll on is because of how much of the axle has rusted away.

JB weld is what I tried first. I think it was too stiff and broke immediately with the torque required to turn the roll. I ordered some PC7 epoxy off amazon. Should get it thursday. Good for gap fill and is thick enough to stay where you put it. Hopefully it will hold up to the task. Once cured...

Well, bad news, the wringer roll broke free of the glue again. Any ideas of a glue that might be able to hold up to it? Maybe gorrila glue?

Last parts reassembled. We had thunderstorms all day today so I didn't do any laundry outside. Probably a test run tomorrow!

Forgot the picture.

Line drying. Right now we need to do so many small loads of diapers we're using a bucket and one of the plunger attachments to just do them by hand. We squeeze out the diapers and hang to dry. Problem is, the diapers are made to absorb water, so they take forever to dry. Hoping a good wringing...

Got the drain hose and wringer reassembled. Pretty proud of my drain hose solution. Could be a good work around for maytags too. What I did was buy a universal 5' washing machine drain hose, and cut the end to fit the drain and clamped it. I also bought an aluminum goose neck. I pushed the...

Thanks Brad. I can't figure out how to even remove the wringer post. Unlike the maytag this one doesn't just lift off. I had read a thor wringer page that said topping up with oil 1/year and a drop of oil in the wringer bearings is what was needed for normal use. If I can't find instructions...

JBwelded where the rust ate through on the wringer drip plates that direct the water back into the tub. Tomorrow I'll sand the JB weld down and then top coat all of it. Tested my permatex roll today, and it holds strong. I can't break it free at all. I was able to topcoat the rest of the...

Progress! I took a spare 4x4 I had and put some tiedowns on it looped under the agitator, tightened them up and put boiling water in the washer. I plugged it in and the agitator caught on the tie downs and pulled free. I was able to clean under neath the agitator which was full of gunk from who...

That looks pretty similar to my wringer gears. Mine was stuck turning in one direction no matter where the lever was set. Looks like yours is stuck in neutral. The lever has a shaft that goes vertically the length of the wringer, and I think has cams that are supposed to engage the gears...

Well, that didn't work. Going to try something thicker, like liquid nails along the length of the shaft to hold the roll on. Here's some pictures of how it assembles.

That rod went in the hole of the wringer roll. There looks like a few glue bands on the rod, but because the rod rusted out and corroded, the wringer was able to freely spin on the rod. The rod end fits into the drive shaft of the wringer and this is the wringer that is powered by the motor. I...