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That’s to hold the filter in place to the rear panel. Maytag HOH’s up until 1964 had a filter on the rear panel to dry things in clean filtered air as a way to prevent airborne dust from being re-deposited onto clean laundry and to prevent dust and lint from being drawn into the cabinet.

Heat pump dryers may be a lot more efficient, but the thing that’s not mentioned in the fine print is the maintenance and repairs that will be needed eventually. Efficiency is all fun and games until it nickels and dimes one’ in maintenance and repairs which completely circumvents and negates...

Pre 1966 Whirlpool 29” top filter dryers and Maytag HOH’s. Some people might argue about how the older Whirlpool 29” dryers were slower with the design of the bulkhead behind behind the drum perforations and while that is true if you were to jam them full, but since it doesn’t have that lint...

That’s an easy one, when GM stopped making appliances for Frigidaire.

This sounds kind of ludicrous, but sometimes I think if machines (mainly top loaders) only had a 8 to 9 pound capacity, you’d be forced to fill the machine all the way up with the smaller capacity tub. Bigger capacity machines aren’t always better, there’s no way I’d be able to use the entire...

Reminds me of a Mark 18 console I translated onto my ‘63 Whirlpool washer, did the same with the dryer as well. They currently reside in my laundry room as I type this.

Final update: got it hooked up to 240v and it works as I would expect. Auto dry feature even works as well to my surprise, will dry to completion depending on the amount of dryness selected.

Haven’t hooked it up to 240v yet, but usually test on 120v to make sure everything is working correctly, if it works on 120v, should work on 240v just fine. Not sure if you noticed, but have two variable pulleys (one on the blower shaft, another on the motor) which I can calibrate and can...

Here’s an update: everything is now completely functional, dryer stops when you open the door, works as intended. The only idiosyncrasy of it is the drum light doesn’t come on in the off position, but comes on when the timer is moved from the off position along with the console light, oh well...

Unfortunately, the 2 speed tumbling feature didn’t work since I couldn’t mount the cable to that tumble speed selector, so I decided to use the ‘speed selector’ to control the heating elements. As for the moisture sensor being grounded through a thermostat, that was the only way to get the auto...

It’s for the 1000 watt element (4600 watts when the 1000 watt element is switched off, 5600 watts when both elements are on), may be a little overboard, but figured it was better to have a contactor switch the element off then using a momentary toggle switch which off the lower wattage element...

This may be overkill, but added a contactor to turn the lower wattage heating element on and off. Could have used a relay, but decided to go the extra mile while I was at it and before I put it back into service next week.

Pat, didn’t you mention in a conversation awhile back that you wanted to get a Whirlpool 29” top filter dryer? Seem to think you did but has been awhile, though.

Could pick them up and sell them for $$$$, or keep them as a back up pair.

Unfortunately, in the later years, they went to a tub seal that was made fairly cheaply which would leak and cold water cycles on top of using too little detergent is what sped up the tub seal’s demise. I believe tub seals could go bad on the older Maytags but have a Maytag 806 from 1979 that...

The tried and true Helical design which has proved itself many times over. Easily one of the most reliable machines in existence, a set of belts and possibly a pump, that’s about it.

Looks like a Dependable Care style of washer judging by the console.

I did check everything earlier this evening, even double checked just to be sure. My guess is the door switch finally gave up the ghost after 43 (were in service from 1963 to 2005, June of 2021 to January of 2023) years of service, can’t really complain about that.

Another update: managed to get the drum light/uv light to come on whenever the machine is running, the idiosyncrasy is it only comes on whenever the timer is moved from the off position but is the only gripe about that. Next, I’ll need to use a contactor to turn the lower wattage element on...

Update: since I bypassed the pulser motor/finish guard, it no longer shuts off when either low/knit and medium/permanent press are selected. Now, onto the door switch and getting the drum light/uv bulb to come on whenever it’s running.