Alright, that will work too.
Whirlpool motor wiring question
- Thread starter maytag85
- Start date
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Hi Sean, wiring a whirlpool dryer, oh my I hope your fire insurance is paid up.
There is no 4600 W in 1000 W element in that dryer
Your 64 whirlpool dryer used a 5600 W element and if you put both elements in series you got 4600 W for the delicate or lower heat.
I can’t begin to figure out what you’re doing. You have the electronic sensor grounded through a thermostat.???
Where did all the original whirlpool thermostats go? It looks like there’s a bunch of cheap new Chinese ones on the blower housing what’s what’s with that?
How did the variable tumble system work out? You never posted any pictures of that?
What you’re trying to do is very difficult. I don’t think I would even attempt this. The wiring systems were just too different from the two different dryers. You’re trying to combine, you need to use the entire wiring harness from the 70s dryer and put just a regular single wattage heater in, or if you want a little greater safety and economy wire your 1965 heater in series and just let it produce 4600 W, which is plenty. It was already a slow dryer. It will just be a little slower.
John L
There is no 4600 W in 1000 W element in that dryer
Your 64 whirlpool dryer used a 5600 W element and if you put both elements in series you got 4600 W for the delicate or lower heat.
I can’t begin to figure out what you’re doing. You have the electronic sensor grounded through a thermostat.???
Where did all the original whirlpool thermostats go? It looks like there’s a bunch of cheap new Chinese ones on the blower housing what’s what’s with that?
How did the variable tumble system work out? You never posted any pictures of that?
What you’re trying to do is very difficult. I don’t think I would even attempt this. The wiring systems were just too different from the two different dryers. You’re trying to combine, you need to use the entire wiring harness from the 70s dryer and put just a regular single wattage heater in, or if you want a little greater safety and economy wire your 1965 heater in series and just let it produce 4600 W, which is plenty. It was already a slow dryer. It will just be a little slower.
John L
Unfortunately, the 2 speed tumbling feature didn’t work since I couldn’t mount the cable to that tumble speed selector, so I decided to use the ‘speed selector’ to control the heating elements.
As for the moisture sensor being grounded through a thermostat, that was the only way to get the auto dry feature to work, surprisingly does work since the timer doesn’t advance when the the thermostat is closed, advances when it opens up.
As for the cycling thermostats, I replaced them in the fall of 2022 since I gave the dryer a tune-up, was cycling the heat off a bit too soon which was extending the drying time substantially. As soon as I replaced the cycling thermostats, kept a close eye on everything to make sure it was cycling off at the specified temperatures and it was. The heating element with a large load of towels would cycle off after about 10 minutes or so with the originals, with the replacements, would stay on for a good 30 to 40 minutes on high which sped up the drying time by quite a bit.
I am using the wiring harness from the ‘77 MK 18 that was parted out (since put on the wiring to the thermostats on from the MK 18), only things that weren’t changed were the wires to the heating element, everything else is from the MK 18.
Sure, it may be difficult and somewhat of an undertaking doing this, but sometimes you have to do hat you have to do when replacement parts can’t be found or sourced.
Good news is everything is pretty much working, just need to get the drum light and console light to come on when the door is opened, will work on that later this evening. If nothing was wired up correctly, the breaker would have tripped immediately when I went to try it out last Saturday.
As for the moisture sensor being grounded through a thermostat, that was the only way to get the auto dry feature to work, surprisingly does work since the timer doesn’t advance when the the thermostat is closed, advances when it opens up.
As for the cycling thermostats, I replaced them in the fall of 2022 since I gave the dryer a tune-up, was cycling the heat off a bit too soon which was extending the drying time substantially. As soon as I replaced the cycling thermostats, kept a close eye on everything to make sure it was cycling off at the specified temperatures and it was. The heating element with a large load of towels would cycle off after about 10 minutes or so with the originals, with the replacements, would stay on for a good 30 to 40 minutes on high which sped up the drying time by quite a bit.
I am using the wiring harness from the ‘77 MK 18 that was parted out (since put on the wiring to the thermostats on from the MK 18), only things that weren’t changed were the wires to the heating element, everything else is from the MK 18.
Sure, it may be difficult and somewhat of an undertaking doing this, but sometimes you have to do hat you have to do when replacement parts can’t be found or sourced.
Good news is everything is pretty much working, just need to get the drum light and console light to come on when the door is opened, will work on that later this evening. If nothing was wired up correctly, the breaker would have tripped immediately when I went to try it out last Saturday.
