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The new style mounting stems use T20 size thorx heads. Tightening the set screw down one can feel first contact with the transmission case threads. Then continue to crush through the threads until feeling greater resistance as the screw reaches the case aluminum. Stop there, and you will find...

I used the old style shaft seal in conjunction with the three lip seal on this new style mounting stem, as recommended by redcarpetdrew and beekeyknee in their step-by-step instructional threads. Both seals were packed with central seal grease. Here I have taken the stem down hand tight and...

I used again DC 111 to lube the inside of the lower sealing ring, then slipped it on the tub mounting flange with no problems, and being careful not to touch the teflon sealing ring on top. Then, carefully libricated the aluminum mounting stem threads and those here on the transmission case...

Now, while attaching the three tub mounting bolts, I realize why the longer bolts are needed in the two rear support arms. With new lock washers being used there is still just enough length to start the nuts a thread or two. I coated the new rubber washers inside with DC 111 and carefully...

Bring the outer tub into action, pausing in this position long enough to attach the water level sensor hose. Then slip it down into place.

Slip the bearing sleeve in place on the transmission and then lubricate the outer sleeve surface with turbine oil.

Here I am lubricating the transmission case with central seal grease, in hopes that it will inhibit the bearing sleeve from corroding to it the way aluminum and steel tend to do. Used the same grease to lubricate the inner surface of the steel bearing sleeve.

Lightly lubricated the outer tub bearing with Dow Corning 111 and it slipped into place without issue. Then lubricated the bronze bushing with turbine oil.

Not too nosy akronman - I sent a PM so we don't go off topic here. First order of business today was to level the washer. First I took it to the same plane with the dryer and then adjusted it to level and with no wobble or rocking. Then the transmission is to go in. Lubricated the splines...

That's about all the weight I can handle before the base plate would become awkward for me. So I put it back where I found it.

Take the brake assembly down by hand until you can feel it snug up to the bearing. Then use the removal tool and tap it with a hammer a couple of times. No need to really whack it, all we are doing here is providing a firm grip on the outer race of that radial bearing. Then replace the...

Now, lubricate the radial bearing surfaces and tap it down until it bottoms in that brake assembly recess. Then lubricate the brake assembly threads and also those splines which will engage the transmission lower case shaft.

Next I lubricated those three damper pads which had been left for their glue to dry. The pads come with one little tube each of MAYTAG Poly Lube, which we now know is a silicone grease. It it surprising how much grease they absorb, and the three little tubes were just about right. Then...

After powder coating, I especially wanted to clean the threads of that little 8/32 hole which provides a chassis ground for the motor circuits. While at it we may as well clean these four other threaded holes, then coat the threads with anti-seize.

Yes, that MAYTAG HEAVY DUTY TRANSMISSION LUBRICANT looks like, and pours like 90 wt gear oil.

Thanks for following the progress Brian. Yup I think that photo may distort the distance a little. There is over seven inches from the bottom of the sheet metal to the rock surface. I checked it out with the dryer running and the air flow seems unrestricted. I used a stout, steel sleeve...

These are unmarked, 5/16-18 hex screws, and such mild steel fasteners generally receive about 11-12 pounds of torque. I don't remember them being tight when they came out either. So I started them down evenly with 7 pounds, and them went up a pound at a time, stopping when I reached 10...

Thanks very much to both beekeyknee and DigAPony, I was actually able to use both a new nylon pinion and new clutch washers in this transmission. Those parts are scarce now, but those forum members made it happen. I changed those parts out, and filled it with oil. That container of MAYTAG...

Next order of business will be these damper pads since they require time to dry also. The tube of MAYTAG glue was used here and there must be enough left in the tube for another hundred or so of these jobs. Try to get the joints about equal in size and place the pads down about 3/32 from the...

This sealing lip was the other problem area, and like the drain pipe it seems "good to go".