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Perhaps VW has upped their game after the Dieselgate Scandal, putting profits ahead of the environment, I don't know as I say "never again". I can only speak to my wife's Golf TDI Mk IV. She loved the car, and while we never had trouble with the engine nor manual gearbox, I really got tired of...

While this may be a step further than you want to go, on a suggestion from John, I was able to retrofit a late model WP compressor into my '65 GE. It does add an inch or so of depth to the back, but that wasn't an issue for our fridge space. That was almost 2 years ago and it still works great.

While NOS excites me, it's tough to tell what's dirt and dust, and what's porcelain chips and paint nicks. I'd like to think a seller asking $2k would take the time to run a damp cloth over them, but I learned a long time ago never to assume.

Another vote to check venting, both in the wall and where it exits the building. I wouldn't give up on the old girl, in fact you'll likely have the same failure on a new dryer until the problem is resolved.

These are excellent dryers and make good "daily-drivers". I personally don't mind the shallower drum, one can empty it without needing to be a certified spelunker.

Another vote for a portable extractor. We only wash with vintage machines, but have a little modern extractor (designed by an AW member) we use with most loads. It cuts dry time significantly for both line and electric dryer. You should see the water that drains off of clothes out of the GE combo!

Just another data point, there was a discussion not that long ago about the lower quality of incandescent bulbs today and how high temps were causing repeated failures in the bases. Changing to an older US-made appliance bulb solved the problem.

I'd be curious to see what that connector looks like; I thought they were all hard wired. I don't think installation would have been too much trouble; most stud bays give you 14.5" to work with and the openings at both ends would be hidden so no special care would really be required. Just...

"I've seen posted that switching to synthetic gear lube resolves that issue?" It absolutely does, like night and day. Unfortunately, there's no easy way to change the oil without a major teardown.

If you're able to get canary yellow quoted at IPE, let me know. I talked to Jeff around 12 months ago and that is one color they no longer do.

Absolutely silly. Why not use the sliding door support like the rest of us plebs? ; ) Seriously, there's nothing quite like an ice cold shower beer after working all day in the 90F heat. It's not a matter of waiting until after the shower, it's the synergy of the thing!

Meg, let us know how you come out. When my '65 GE was running full-time and no longer cooling properly last year, I refused to throw in the towel. With help from members of the group, I swapped in the compressor and condenser from a modern fridge, recharged with R12, and it's been running...

Cory here.... Hey Richard, did you have a chance to try my suggestion of applying weight to the center of that shield while warming in an oven at low temp? Yours actually looks pretty good compared to some I've seen. How can you tell the antenna is hanging up? Best- C.

Ben, appreciate the confirmation. There was a tiny bit of yellow insulation left on the 'dry dial t-stat', and the motor overrun t-stat is make-on-rise, so I was able to ID that by continuity. Someone substituted a 3-terminal t-stat for A, but its location seemed to match the simpler Westy...

Hey Guys, I've got a D1000 I'm putting back together from bags and boxes. Why it was torn apart, I have no idea, I'm just thankful the critical pieces are still there. While waiting on some parts to arrive, I decided I'd tackle the wiring harness. Here's my issue... There are 4 different...

As long as these RR's can pull the current they need (no extension cords or undersized wiring) they're pretty quiet when under load (nice, heavy transformers). The fan speed might drop just a little, and the interior light (if on) will dim a touch as it cycles, but normally that blower will...

Just to clarify, the fan/blower should run anytime you hit Start, and normally would drown out any transformer hum. In fact, the hum really shouldn't be perceptible whether or not the magnetron is "on" or "off" during defrosting.

Auto-Defrost The defrost cycle on these models is a 50% duty cycle if I recall. When you activate it, it powers a motor and a cam turns the magnetron on for so many seconds (30?), then off for so many seconds. It's not unusual for there to be a light clunk or hum (transformer is under load)...

She looks right at home in that kitchen! Due to the integrated-choke door design, it would take physical damage to the unit to make it unsafe to operate. I wouldn't put too much stock in that hand-held tester, to be honest. The next time you're cooking something, look up towards the splash...

Sharp eyes will notice RR-2 style graphics on those 4D knobs. This is because the 50Hz models came out in the '2' era, and since the timer motors are 60Hz, you actually get a little bit more cook time on both timers due to the motors turning slower. I don't know how many EU models were sold, but...