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^ I had already cut the sides before so they’re all spliced together. Are you saying I need to reposition of the switch? I don’t quite follow. What do you mean by the wires needing to be on the hot side of the curcuif?

Success!!! Got the switch installed and the machine now works with the lid open. When I flip the switch to OFF and try to run on spin, it says OL on the control panel. I'm guessing that is good because its working. I also got my new detergent dispenser. This one was used in the calyspo machine.

Adding the switch Thanks to Joseph. The link can be found here: https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?88059 I'm going to order this one: https://a.co/d/ccGgwAs

^ That was to be expected. I didn't ever plan on getting one of these but when one popped up, I kind of had to bite the bullet. I'm learning as I go. Now if this was my first DD, I would be in a lot of trouble. I'm just a visual person and learned through DIY videos on YT. If I can just see...

Reply 54 Thank you. Joseph was going to search the forums for a tutorial. I already did to no avail. At least the washer is ok. Can the water pressure switch be adjusted? I really hate that this thing doesn't fill past the top row of holes.

Update So I spliced back the lid switch wires and now the machine is working as it should. Once I open the lid it stops, but I am able to move on to the next cycle with no F3 code. If someone can explain that auxiliary switch setup to me, or show me a video on how to hook that up, I will be a...

Well it completed the cycle perfectly fine, but after I removed the clothes, closed the lid, then tried another cycle, I got hit with the F3 code. I unplugged it for 10 minutes, tried again, to the same thing. I guess I'll try replacing the lid switch first. Fortunately my 2002 Kenmore Elite...

Ok, just followed those directions to the tee. That worked. I'll test it out. So if the board is not the factor, it should be fine and I should be able to have the lid opened during the wash?

Issue

Or are you saying the lid switch itself could possibly be bad despite the wires being twisted together under the control panel?

The lid switch is still bypassed with a wire nut, currently unplugged. When I plug it in and try to do something it just says F3. I have closed the lid a few times.

That’s what happening. Are there any other options? What if I reverse it and wire bolt the wires back into the lid switch and just move the lid hinge down? Or you said just unplug it after every cycle? I’m still kind of confused on this.

Lid switch So why can’t the lid switch be bypassed on this model. A wire nut is in place, yes.

Water pressure switch Can the non- catalyst one be adjusted to fill higher?

Lid switch That’s odd because it’s wired with a wire nut and properly grounded.

F3 and no catalyst Not sure what happened. Maybe the membrane is going bad or the lid switch wiring is the issue? It will not do the catalyst thing and says F3 and beeps at me.

Water level

Cleaning The machine was extremely clean on the interior. I wonder if it was recently scrubbed. The tub popped right off, no effort whatsoever. After I put everything back together, it threw 2 error codes on a large load of towels. "F3" and "OL". The maximum water level is pretty low, I noticed...

^ Not at all