Whirlpool Gold Catalyst Direct Drive

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

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It Will throw a fault code every time you go to start the washer on a new cycle, my calypso did the same thing I had to put an auxiliary switch behind the control panel that you have to cycle open and then closed every time you want to use the washer because I wanted to watch the machine work.

You can do the same thing on this washer if you want to leave the lid switch Bypassed.

John
 
That’s what happening. Are there any other options? What if I reverse it and wire bolt the wires back into the lid switch and just move the lid hinge down?

Or you said just unplug it after every cycle? I’m still kind of confused on this.
 
 
What's the mystery?  It's simple.  The control board must "see" a break on the lid switch circuit (lid opened/closed at least once) after a finished cycle before a new cycle can be started*.  The purpose per the tech sheet is to confirm the lid switch is functional.

*Or pressing Pause/Cancel twice (cancel) during the cycle to forcibly end it apparently allows starting a new cycle without opening the lid.  This may not work if the previous cycle has ended gracefully since there's no active cycle running to be cancel.

Unplugging the machine from power also will/should reset the control board to a fresh start without physically toggling the lid switch, as John stated.
 
The lid switch is still bypassed with a wire nut, currently unplugged. When I plug it in and try to do something it just says F3. I have closed the lid a few times.
 
 
It may be possible that the control board has a static memory and isn't resetting via unplugging from power, although that seems unlikely (Calypso doesn't).

Unplug the machine.  Remove the wire nut and separate the wires.  Plug in the machine so it sees that circuit is broken.  Unplug the machine.  Retie the wires.  Plug in the machine and try starting a cycle.

If it works, but doesn't work after another cycle until you repeat disconnection of the wire ... then board memory may be the factor.

Another possibility is the board is bad on the lid switch circuit.
 
Ok, just followed those directions to the tee. That worked. I'll test it out. So if the board is not the factor, it should be fine and I should be able to have the lid opened during the wash?
 
Well it completed the cycle perfectly fine, but after I removed the clothes, closed the lid, then tried another cycle, I got hit with the F3 code. I unplugged it for 10 minutes, tried again, to the same thing. I guess I'll try replacing the lid switch first. Fortunately my 2002 Kenmore Elite with all mechanical controls uses the same part (WP8054980).

If that doesn't work, how do I go about fixing the board memory? Or does that mean replace the entire membrane?
 
Update

So I spliced back the lid switch wires and now the machine is working as it should. Once I open the lid it stops, but I am able to move on to the next cycle with no F3 code.

If someone can explain that auxiliary switch setup to me, or show me a video on how to hook that up, I will be a happy camper.

I thank everyone for their input.
 
Once I am back home with my Catalyst I can send you a video and some photos. I have a manual switch on the back of the console that triggers the lid switch to run it with the lid open, however I have to cycle it before the next load otherwise it throws an F3 code as well.
 
Reply 54

Thank you. Joseph was going to search the forums for a tutorial. I already did to no avail. At least the washer is ok.

Can the water pressure switch be adjusted? I really hate that this thing doesn't fill past the top row of holes.
 
This machine is presenting a whole new host of problems, being that it's a more mechanically complex model with its own little quirks, but you're still trying to figure it out and get it working. I admire your determination.
 
^

That was to be expected. I didn't ever plan on getting one of these but when one popped up, I kind of had to bite the bullet. I'm learning as I go. Now if this was my first DD, I would be in a lot of trouble.

I'm just a visual person and learned through DIY videos on YT. If I can just see visual images of this how this switch connects to the lid switch/back of the control panel, I think I'm mechanically inclined enough where as I'll be good.

I have now tested several cycles since I spliced the lid switch wires back and its been fine. The machine is working very nicely. The membrane on the control panel is quite responsive and clean. The hoses inside looked pretty clean and the frame had no rust. If I was to complain, I would say the wash basket had some hard water stains from over the years.
 

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