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March 2006 If one wants a DD, this is the one. 3 speed motor and an Ultrarinse model.

I'd personally use and adapt infinite pressure switch 205705 from a 10 series washer and mount it to the console cover in a fashion where it can be accessed easily (either openly or discreetly,) so you have full adjustability of the water level. These machines should have come with that from the...

Modern enzyme based Cascade powder detergent foams up much more easily than the older phosphate/bleach concoction so keep that in mind. You'll need to dose less than the good old formula.

You'll need to reply with the month/year (or serial number if unaware). The 906 washer was revised in 1968 and certain parts are not compatible with older versions. The water pressure switch is one of them. Prior to 08-02-1968, the switch is part# 203226 After 08-02-1968, the switch is part# 204228

That looks great for a novice! Nothing wrong with those joints, leave them as is.

That's weird, I could sworn you posted the machine before and it had the 3 button arrangement. I must have been thinking of another machine. I see a ton of these while browsing through Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist. It's hard keeping track after a while.

You have the Imperial model. The name for each model is located underneath the console panel.

With Whirlpool discontinuing everything, it sort of is. But it's easier to find timers for older Maytags as they kept parts aviaible for over 50 years and there's still a bunch of them floating around. After 15 years, it's "tough luck" from Whirlpool. Dead timers is the main component sending...

All cycles are Sani unless selecting "Fast Wash No Dry" or "Rinse and Hold" There is no dedicated Sani cycle that's found on 18 and older models. All heating phases are 150F only on the 19 models.

I'd definitely touch up all of those poor solder joints. After practicing and getting the hang of it, it goes quickly. You may even get away with just reheating them. Do it right the first the time!

Incorrect

If they have good shafts, sell them. Even used orbital transmissions on Ebay are going for new prices right before discontinuation. Just be reasonable with pricing, not too many people are going to spend $250 for a used transmission. Times are changing an people want the old reliable washers...

There was no scheduled maintenance for replacing the original (better) agitator shaft seal but I'd replace it every 20 years through normal use just to be on the safe side. More often if bleach/ammonia is used. The original design generally lasted 30 years (average use) before leaking and...

Keep the transmission on the 208, it's just a worn upper sleeve bearing and agitator shaft. Everything else will be fine. I'm currently in the works piecing together a shaft, sleeve bearing, and groove pin kit for the upper housing. Other NLA parts will hopefully be available depending on cost...

Take a shot every time "Control Board Issues" is mentioned and you'll be wasted by the end of the video. When buyers are ecstatic that their appliance lasts 5-7 years without a repair, that's a reflection about the quality of modern day appliances. I'll just keep on running the vintage jewels...

Toggleswitch linked a story to it on here many years ago. This one didn't kill the family but made them incredibly sick. https://www.nytimes.com/1976/12/28/archives/dishwasher-sealant-flakes-into-medical-nightmare-for-family.html

Don't use any sealer that isn't food safe, it's a good way to destroy your health. There are stories of people using a marine sealer in their dishwasher and killing off their entire family. If the cover seal looks worn, replace it.

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