Yep, my A408 came from an old lady who ignored a small leak for years and years. Don't let a nice A806 suffer the same fate!
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?77619
>> everywhere i’ve looked said that the thermocouple id need for this machine isn’t available anymore (I checked
>> ebay and such too). is there a different fix or some place you’d suggest looking for that replacement part?
argh... I had one up until just a few weeks ago when I finally...
>> @nickl - yes, our machines do look almost identical - I also noticed a small variation in the knob on each of
>> our machines. Please let me know if you are willing to share your manual digitally as I can see if this would be
>> accepted as "close enough" by the home warranty company due to...
If you are OK with the wider base where it sits at the bottom of the tub, then using an original agitator with the hexagonal adapter would be far far far cheaper and easier.
>> The motor was killed by water leaking from the injector valve. The water road the tub seal around and dropped right in the motor.
I'm not sure when they came about, but some Maytags had a plastic cap over the top of the motor to prevent water and other debris from getting into them. If you...
>> 806 set
...and a nice one at that! With the blue panels, chrome strips, acrylic knobs, but the non-spun dials, they would have been from sometime between late 1971 and early 1975?
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?22010
Can you post some pictures of what you are working with?
ie: What the machine looks like, what the agitator shaft looks like, and the agitator shape you are thinking of adapting into it?
>> There have been many discussions on this website over the years about getting obsolete parts re-manufactured,
>> and even when there is an existing part to copy (which you don't have) the cost for tooling is thousands
>> of dollars. It's an expensive business.
I actually think this project...
I actually think neither the forces nor the size would be a problem... there are some rather large consumer-grade 3D printers available now, and the material selections are growing all the time. And you could freely mix and match materials to take advantage of their characteristics - say a...
Restoration of the original rollers seems like a very reasonable project, actually.
The old rubber material could be scraped or abraded away with a bristle brush, and a rubber or silicone of the appropriate hardness could be poured into a mold directly over the original shaft.
If I were...
Ok, here we go!
This ultimately took quite a bit more work than expected... the plastic Maytag part's functionality was clearly compromised by the need to fit in a mechanism designed for the wire striker. The tolerances gave it a very short flex zone (which concentrates stresses and...
>> It would sure be nice to find someone with a printer or ability to repop those using my NOS as a template.
That's what I'm thinking I might do, since I also still have one (but just one) chime actuator that hasn't broken yet, and of course have no idea how many fatigue cycles it has seen...
Anyone happen to know the logic behind Maytag's revisions of the "Chime Actuator" in the dryers (DE/DG 806, DE/DG 808, others?) over the years?
The overall bracket arrangement seems to have been designed around a simple bent wire with a screw & nut. Later on, a molded flexible plastic part...
Quick terminology check:
The original post asks about the injector "valve", but based on the context, I presume they mean the entire assembly. Dan confirms "siphon break", and John confirms "air gap" and the code requirement behind it.
... but from Maytag's naming perspective, the "valve" is a...
I would bet that their smaller size and lighter weight also makes them inherently easier to collect, easier to buy/sell/ship, easier to forget about, and more likely to have survived.
Hey, look at that! It appears to have some planks (wood or the like) to distribute the weight, but they actually did it! Thanks for posting the picture.