1-18 Clutch

[yogitunes]

Is there a clutch inside the roller for spin........I have a feeling there is and it should be allowing it to slip during ramp up of the spin, if true, then I know where to investigate as to why mine is locked solid, or corroded....

thanks for your input

 

[combo52]

1-18 CLUTCH

Yes there are clutch linings some small springs etc inside the spin wheel and they can either lock up and not slip properly which can cause the motor to cut out on its overload or it can slip too much and the machine won't spin properly. The 1-18s clutch is a larger beefed up version of the one that the solid tub roller-matices used 1964-1969. The clutch can be removed and disassembled, sometimes if the machine sat for a period of time in a very damp area the linings will rust to the steel plates or there may be a slight water leak from the main seal. Keep us posted on your progress.

 

[fltcoils]

Clutch details etc.

Here's some details on the 1-18 clutch
brake shoe 0.130"
clutch shoe 0.133" thk
clutch pressure plate disk 0.267"thk
Large spg (incld ring ends) 1.787" free ht
Small brake spring 0.368" free ht
Brake washer cupped springs 0.228: free ht
L to H spring tension adjustment, 0.870 max depth, 0.258 min depth

The clutch has an adjustment to allow changing the spring preload on the shoes.

 

[fltcoils]

Clutch viewed on brake end

pic 1 of 12

See the brake shoe

 

[fltcoils]

Clutch screws removed to allow disassembly

pic 2

Cams set to side

 

[fltcoils]

Clutch components layed out

Pic 3

Note spring free ht is 1.787" including metal end washers

 

[fltcoils]

Inner shoe inserted

Pic 4

 

[fltcoils]

Pressure plate inserted

Pic 5
Besure to make flat side up on pressure plate, stepped side goes down.

 

[fltcoils]

Outer shoe inserted

Pic 6

 

[fltcoils]

Inner cam put in place

Pic 7

 

[fltcoils]

Outer cam put in place

Pic 8

 

[fltcoils]

Tension spring put in place

Pic 9

 

[fltcoils]

Tension adjustment notches

Pic 10

5 Notches allow depth of spring shoulder to be changed from 0.870 max depth, 0.258 min depth

 

[fltcoils]

Stock adjustment is middle slot

Pic 11

 

[fltcoils]

Assembled clutch

Pic 12

 

[fltcoils]

I didn't include the brake side

There are 3 small springs inserted from the clutch side, held in place by the inner clutch shoe

On the brake side there are 2 cupped washer/springs then the shoe
The inner cupped washer inserts OD contacting down, then the outer cupper washer OD contacting up, then the brake shoe.

 

[pdub]

Great Pictorial

Thanks for taking the time to detail this out Bill.

 

[fltcoils]

Tension Spring Depth Adjustment

Correction
0.820 max depth, 0.586 min depth

pic showing 3 small springs next to holes on clutch side

 

[fltcoils]

Brake Parts layed out

Bic2

 

[fltcoils]

Inner washer

Pic 3

 

[fltcoils]

Outer washer

Pic 4

 

[fltcoils]

Brake shoe inserted

Pic 5

 

[fltcoils]

Remember,

it all goes back in the box

 

[fltcoils]

An old clutch measured much the same...

I took the clutch out of my 1975 1-18, the rusty cabinate one I mention in thread 35161

Total wear in clutch = 0.074"
Total wear on break shoe .015"

shifts = .085" "shorter" for 3 anti rattle springs

Conclusion: Wear is not an issue, contamination/glazing may be the greater issue for this/these clutches. The cams were gooky with black stuf and shoe dust. So take it apart and clean the dust out, then measure and reset the spring height appropriately.

 

[fltcoils]

Actual data I measured

Clutch shoe wear is compensated for using the spring adjustment on the outer housing. The shoe wear is compensated for with the nut adjustment.

Interesting that the only item showing a shift from original were the free height of the three little anti rattle springs for the brake cupped spring washers. These small brake spring were originally 0.368" free ht bet had dropped down to only 0.285" (0.083" less than nos replacement clutch) - causing a rattle most likely, but not affecting the braking action.

Your results may differ....

------------
brake shoe 0.125" (slightly less than nos replacement clutch)
outer wear groove 0.015"
inner wear groove N/A

outer clutch shoe 0.130" thk (same as nos replacement clutch)
outer surface wear N/A
inner surface wear 0.028"

Clurch pressure plate 0.265" thk (same as nos replacement clutch)
outer surface wear appx 0.003" wear
inner surface wear appx 0.003" wear

inner clutch shoe 0.132" thk (same as nos replacement clutch)
outer surface wear 0.040"
inner surface wear N/A

Large spg (incld ring ends) free ht 1.835"/1.875" (0.050" more than nos replacement clutch)

Cupped washer springs for brake free ht .242 (0.014" more than nos replacement clutch)

Note that the L to H spring preload height adj .589 to .828
+/- .0120" adj

 

[yogitunes]

Many thanks for all the pics and input........the machine I have is from Darren with the main seal leak.....worked OK until the leak got worse.....in any case this will be a parts machine for me......and I didn't want to write off the idea that the motor was burnt out because of it cutting out everytime it went into spin....but runs fine in agitation mode.....I figured it may have been a clutch getting stuck, but was not sure.....so I am gonna take your advise, as a learning experience to dis-assemble and see what I can do.......

this is new territory for me, also with advice from Petes input from another thread on replacing the main seal, I just want to take my time and go piece by piece getting it apart in case I need additional parts......

Either way, this is a great learning experience.......I have a 1-18 comming from Mike in August, which is working order, just missing a few parts, so in any choice, its win win!

its one thing to watch a video of these machines......and a whole world of difference in person.....fascinating doesn't describe it!

Thanks again everyone

 

[fltcoils]

Thanks Martin,

I'm doing it as much for myself, to log the info here, as for anyone, I suppose. But I'm glad to see someone is reading it.

Here's what happened today - Getting down and dirty

"I'll just fiddle with a couple of things"

"I'll save time by lying on the floor next to the washer, I can just reach in and adjust the clutch spring tension...."

"I'll just loosen those 3 screws, then I can adjust that tensioner...oops the screws came out. ok I'll just reach up with my 3rd hand and adjust the spring seat on the cover to ....#@$#%$"

---So I ended up with parts looped over the agitate arm, and up and down the agitate shaft. dead end.

In retrospect, considering how easy it is to grab that coupler with channel locks and hold the tub, I should have just unscrewed the coupler in the 1st place. The clutch nut was only finger tight on the cams, so everything came loose slick and easy once I had the coupler off. It will be better having it off, that way I can clean the dust out of the cams and lengthen the anti-rattle springs. etc.

Disassembling the clutch is easy, but the shoe/brake dust makes a mess. Have some brake cleaner handy, and some sand paper to deglaze the shoes.

I think I may try polishing up the OD of the clutch where the roller contacts, it was showing a rough worn finish.

 

[yogitunes]

Bill

I know where your comming from.....it was just funny and yet frustrating to keep sealing the small leaks only for the bigger one to occur.......

but its how we learn.......and the old addage, nothing is as simple as it seems

auto brake cleaner works great for a number of applications, especially the rollers of these machines......

Nothing new to these guys of AW....but I am a kid in candy store watching the simplicity of rollers that make this thing work....pure genious

I don't understand yet all the hoses comming in and out of the pump.....most are obvious, and a few of whats that for?