101P Update

[geoffdelp]

Hi all ... thought you'd all like an update on my Maytag 101P.

I thought I would NEVER get it running, but had success over the long 4th weekend. I got a new timer, but it was the wrong one and will return it. I was so frustrated that I started to clean all of the contacts and reconnected everything; it STILL wouldn't run!!

It finally dawned on me to disassemble the lid (I'd already done that once) and sure enough, the unbalance mercury switch was in the "tripped" position. It had been rigged with wire and a spring because the eyelet that the spring connected in to had been eaten away. I flipped the switch forward, closed the lid and VOILA, we made contact and little 101P started to agitate right away!! Even the little "Maytag" light lit up!!

The bummer? Well, it won't spin. I can hear the solenoid trip and can hear the brake release, but it just won't spin. I think it's the "T" key and will try to remove it soon to see if it is worn.

The other bummer? It made the most horrific scream during agitation and when it tried to spin. It sounded like someone trying to start a car over and over again. I'm guessing the bearing that the shaft runs through is extremely dry and will try to get some lubrication on it first.

Other than that, I CANNOT WAIT to get her painted, cleaned-up and put new hoses on for a long anticipated "Maytag Wash" - 1954 style!!

Geoff

 

[gyrafoam]

That is such good news that you are making progress with the restoration. Please post some photo's of it when you can. Do you have a spare torque spring?----if not better get one and put it on the shelf-----I hope that is not the spin problem.Best wishes! -Steve

 

[Unimatic1140]

Hi Geoff, the terrific "scream" might have been the pump roller against the belt. Are you able to turn the pump roller by hand easily?

As for the T-Key, that's a pain to remove and reinstall, but it can be done. Also if its worn on the side that catches the spring, you can turn it around and its good for another 20 years.

 

[geoffdelp]

Steve ... I've read the service manual and the torque spring does not sound like a fun thing to do!! Is this the one you warned me about when I first got the machine? You had one pop off and almost hit you? Does not sound like fun!! I'll take pictures as I go; I have a long way and am learning a TON!

Robert ... The pump turns quite freely and with the belt removed, I can make the machine "scream" by turning the clutch flywheel by hand. The trick with the T-key is turning the tubs to line it up, right? You have to use a needle-nosed pliers to remove it from what I read.

If I can remove the T-key, can I drop some lubrication down the shaft to the bearings, or do I need to remove the clutch wheel and channel brace?

I've discovered that the 101P was unique in that instead of having to completely disassemble the machine, you could turn it on its side and it has a removable channel brace that allows you to access everything up to the plate of the power unit.

The service manual "praised" the 101P as being more service-friendly with access to most things easily achieved by removing the panels. If this machine was made in 1954, Maytag had only been producing automatics for 5 years and were refining it constantly.

I'm trying to figure out if they only produced this model for a couple of years before they changed the style again by adding a full width console with the center dial and buttons for water temp. I'm thinking they started to make the center dialed machines in 1956; does that seem right?

The operator's manual states that Maytag's research proved that only hot and warm water were needed for washing and warm water only for rinsing. Interesting!! The service manual gives directions on how to convert the wiring for cold water rinsing only.

I think I've really been enjoying the reading a lot, too. These machines brought women from the wringer washer to the automatic. They also made these machines with gravity drains where the drain hose rested on the floor drain so women who had plumbing just for a wringer without a pump could use an automatic without a pump, too.

This machine could also be made "portable". You could purchase special casters and a unique hose system and adjust the water temperature accordingly. I think that would be sort of cool to find a kit like this.

I've prattled on long enough ... sorry.

 

[Unimatic1140]

Hi Geoff, yes you need long Needle Nose pliers to be able to reach the T-Key, and yes you have to line up two holes in order to properly install the T-Key.

Where is scream this sound coming from? When you turn the clutch by hand does it sound like its coming from inside the clutch or up further along the spin shaft?

I suspect that you might have to pull the tub/tranny out as a unit and inspect if there are signs of a water leakage down the spin shaft. The outer tub boot seal might be bad. In the AMP, just like the early Norge washers, the transmission is literally bolted to the bottom of the spin tub. Both pull out together as a unit once you remove the clutch, brake and a few other components. There should be step by step instructions in your repair manual. I did this once on my AMP and I took pictures, I will see if I can find them.

 

[geoffdelp]

Robert ... it sounds like from inside the clutch; or in that general area. I was looking over the service manual before bed last night and saw that there was an oil pan for the clutch and before assembly, you are to add 4 tbls of Maytag transmission oil to it. Do you remember doing this? I wonder if it is just dried out.

I thought I would have to remove the agitator to get the entire tub system out. Remember, I can't get the agitator off without breaking it ... at least at this point.

I should be able to turn the clutch by hand to line up the holes to remove and install the T-key; at least that's my thinking!!!

 

[Unimatic1140]

Geoff, no if I remember correctly you do not need to remove the agitator to get the entire tub/tranny assembly out. All parts are removed from underneath the machine, then the tub, agitator, tranny get pulled up and out together. But if the sound is not coming from the spin shaft, and it is the clutch making that noise, you wont have to worry about pulling out the entire mechanim.

Yes the early AMP's had a "dry" clutch, by 1954 they were using the "wet" clutch. There should be an oil plug in the bottom center of the clutch. While thick Maytag tranny oil would work the best, you can also try adding a few tablespoons of air-compressor oil (available at Ace Hardware). I would only put one tablespoon at a time into the clutch and let the motor run between each tablespoon until the sound goes away. I found the less oil in the oil clutch the better the machine will pickup during spin.

 

[geoffdelp]

Thanks, Robert ... I'll try to start checking it out tonight.

I wonder if the transmission oil I have for the wringer models would work on this machine? I'm sure I can still get a pint or so from the dealers. You can still buy the T-key so I might be lucky!!

 

[mrcleanjeans]

Maytag,you're in hot water

Funny how the owner's manual stated that Maytag's research showed that only hot and warm were needed to wash, with warm water rinsing,when just a few short years later, they were the ones to come up with cold water washing and had full-sized ads extolling its virtues.I realize that some new fabrics were coming in and more people were using detergents instead of soap,but I woulda thought by 1954,most were ALREADY using detergent,so who knows.

 

[geoffdelp]

David, what's also funny is that the manual discouraged the use of soap and highly recommended the new "synthetic detergents" that were available!

In fact, the manual stated that if you were washing clothes that you had previously washed in soap, you were to add one cup of Calgon to the wash water and NOT use any detergent so you could rid your clothes of the soap build up.

I think a lot of clothing were still durable cottons, rayons, nylons, etc. and we didn't have much permanent press items and women still did a lot of ironing. That's why the warm water rinses. Also, Maytag didn't introduce the dryer until 1953 and I wonder if that had something to do with it, too.

Like you said ... "who knows".