This is how I imagine, or at least how I would like to see most front load washers.
The machine has three mal-operation relays- two deal with an-out-of balance load that trip and hold open, the other monitors motor current and will trip and lock open before the motor's internal overload does so for a suds lock or excessive tub drag situation. The three relays re-set every time the motor is de-energized when switching in between cycles. This allows one failed spin not to effect the others. If successive failed spins trip out the relays, the timer continues to advance the cycle as normal until hitting off. This is a limp along feature that allows the cycle to finish without error codes of shutting down the whole machine.
There are two water valves in series for flood protection redundancy like on older Maytag and Hobart dishwashers. Single cold connection.
A second pressure switch acting as flood prevention breaks the circuit to the water valves should the main pressure switch fail. The backup flood prevention pressure switch is fed via separate dome and sensing hose. It would be a discrete color from the normal pressure switch hose, typically red.
The wash temp is determined by the time allocated for heating. Cottons and Heavy give more time, delicate gives less time that contact CAM 5, 8B pink is closed. Crude, but very simple and reliable. Heater only runs once the main pressure switch is satisfied. Nothing stalls out the timer or timing like on other machines.
16/2 pole PSC induction motor so no electronics to fail. The single pole double throw counter-clockwise motor rotation timer contact cam #8 position M14 engages 14T RED during the final drain increment and then immediately falls into 14B Tan shitting the machine from tumble to spin instantly. Doing so prevent garments from clumping up at the bottom of the tub before the spin reducing the possibility of an out-of-balance.
At the start of drain a door lock wax motor is engaged. If the motor successfully actuates with the door seated correctly the door lock spin enable switch closes (TAN to TAN-RED). Upon removal of power to the machine or door lock wax motor, the motor takes about 2-3 minutes to re-tract. This is so the machine basket has enough time to coast down at the cessation of spin before the door can be opened.
There is of course a re-circulation pump that runs in wash and rinse which prevents detergent from settling down in the drain boot.
Tumble reverses every 60, 90 or 120 second 7.5 degree increment of the timer. The design of the tub would prevent tangling.
This particular model would have no dispensers. Powder, liquid or a pod is tossed into the tub.
Only thing I might change now that I think about it is placing the current sensing suds lock relay in the TAN spin line. That way if the relay trips out toward the end of spin, it will not effect the tumble windings of the motor going into rinse. A no or short tumble rinse could increase the odds of a second suds lock.
But other than that I wish all front loads were this reliable and dependable.
The machine has three mal-operation relays- two deal with an-out-of balance load that trip and hold open, the other monitors motor current and will trip and lock open before the motor's internal overload does so for a suds lock or excessive tub drag situation. The three relays re-set every time the motor is de-energized when switching in between cycles. This allows one failed spin not to effect the others. If successive failed spins trip out the relays, the timer continues to advance the cycle as normal until hitting off. This is a limp along feature that allows the cycle to finish without error codes of shutting down the whole machine.
There are two water valves in series for flood protection redundancy like on older Maytag and Hobart dishwashers. Single cold connection.
A second pressure switch acting as flood prevention breaks the circuit to the water valves should the main pressure switch fail. The backup flood prevention pressure switch is fed via separate dome and sensing hose. It would be a discrete color from the normal pressure switch hose, typically red.
The wash temp is determined by the time allocated for heating. Cottons and Heavy give more time, delicate gives less time that contact CAM 5, 8B pink is closed. Crude, but very simple and reliable. Heater only runs once the main pressure switch is satisfied. Nothing stalls out the timer or timing like on other machines.
16/2 pole PSC induction motor so no electronics to fail. The single pole double throw counter-clockwise motor rotation timer contact cam #8 position M14 engages 14T RED during the final drain increment and then immediately falls into 14B Tan shitting the machine from tumble to spin instantly. Doing so prevent garments from clumping up at the bottom of the tub before the spin reducing the possibility of an out-of-balance.
At the start of drain a door lock wax motor is engaged. If the motor successfully actuates with the door seated correctly the door lock spin enable switch closes (TAN to TAN-RED). Upon removal of power to the machine or door lock wax motor, the motor takes about 2-3 minutes to re-tract. This is so the machine basket has enough time to coast down at the cessation of spin before the door can be opened.
There is of course a re-circulation pump that runs in wash and rinse which prevents detergent from settling down in the drain boot.
Tumble reverses every 60, 90 or 120 second 7.5 degree increment of the timer. The design of the tub would prevent tangling.
This particular model would have no dispensers. Powder, liquid or a pod is tossed into the tub.
Only thing I might change now that I think about it is placing the current sensing suds lock relay in the TAN spin line. That way if the relay trips out toward the end of spin, it will not effect the tumble windings of the motor going into rinse. A no or short tumble rinse could increase the odds of a second suds lock.
But other than that I wish all front loads were this reliable and dependable.
