1956 Duomatic

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Shock supports

Jon ,These are the places where the shocks are connected.Years ago when I got my 1st 53 Duomatic The rust was bad enough that I had to throw out the whole tub beacause of safety issues.I thought that in the case of having a heavy unbalanced load in a spin it would be possible for one of the shock mounts to break loose.If that happened it would be a mess.Hard to tell what would fly apart.That was the only Duomatic I saw with rust in that area.None of my machines had any rust in that area.
 
Cleaning Cylinder

The way I remove the cylinder from the tub back is to balance the tub back on 2 chairs.only a small part of the tub back hangs on the chairs.put some towels under the cylinder so when you hit the shaft with a sledge hammer the cylinder has some cush to drop on when it breaks loose.Be sure not to damage the shaft end.Sometimes it works to use a 2by4 set that on shaft and give it a few good blows.It should break loose.As long as you have it apart ,take off the magic heater and replace with new sealer.I always use the orange copper color.It can stand high heat.I also have used this on the heater box to replace all asbestos on the machine.It is best to take the cylinder outside and lay it shaft up.With high pressure water flow rinse and pick all the lint out of the vanes.you should be able to get it all out.Order #s I sent to your E-Mail Best of luck on your project!
 


Jon. C
Yes I did receive the boot in perfect condition. Thank you again for your help with getting a new boot!

John. E
Thank you. I did get your email what a big help. I have been using the copper RTV for years it's the only RTV that will hold up on turbo engines. It's great stuff! If you can believe this the vains are clean~ lint free! Don't know how that happened but it should clean up quickly.

Thank you guys for all of your help! It's never a easy task to bring a machine back from the dead.
 


Got the bearings today and clean up the outer tub a bit and the rust was just on the top no big deal. I will up load some pics tomorrow. It's not as bad as everyone was thinking.
 
Rust Issues

The rust in those areas is not good.Have to remember it went all the way through. What does the underside look like?Best you can do now is just clean it really good and seal it with the Nu-Porce.And hope for the best.The condenser pan assmb.should all be taken apart, cleaned and sealed.This is the time to do it.IT WILL SURELY LEAK.It would be a pain to take the whole machine apart again just to fix that.Keep a look out for another Duomatic.One will surely surface.You will be shocked to see the difference of one that never had standing water in it.I cannot stress how much those areas need to be in a reasonable condition.My fingers are crossed for you.I know how excited you are to get it going.Been there,John
 
Ok guys

Any suggestions on how in the world to get the inner tub to come out of the bearings? I have been hitting it with a sledgehammer for like an hour now :(
 
Hey there Anthony,

 

I have yet to do this on my '57, but I feel your pain (and I need to get to mine one of these days while parts are still available!).  Looking at the diagram below, is drum shaft stuck in the bearings, thus then stuck to the back?

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Ben

I have a new bearing and seals for it. I just don't want to permanently harm it by heating it up red hot. That how we get things to move on cars and figured that's what it would take to get it to slide off. Thank you for the diagram! That helps a lot.

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Tub back removal

The best way to do it is to balance the tub back on 2 chairs so the cylinder hangs freely with towel or blanket underneath the cylinder so when it breaks loose it will fall on the blanket.Heating it may help.But you are only able to heat the outer bearing not the inner bearing.And the inner bearing is the one that was exposed to water.If you have a pointed chisel you can try centering that on the shaft and give it a good blow.Be careful not to damage the shaft end.Sometimes short hard blows work.It will break loose.Wish I was there to do it for you.Done it many times before.Just keep trying.And walk away from it for a while then go back and try again.And as far as the spot welding I would say no.Let us know when you get it apart.
 
Stuck bearings

The shaft rides on the bearings only.So the inner part of the bearings is what is stuck to the shaft.And is such a small surface area.Hard to believe that such a small surface area does not want to break loose.BUT IT WILL.
 
I got it!

I heated the outer Bering red hot beat it till I could get to the inner and heated it read hot and she came out. What a Bitch! But I got it! 😀

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John

That's just what I was thinking! Lol. It's been a long day the boy got his wisdom teeth pulled today so I worked for a few then tended to him. Right when it started to brake it free he came out and mumbled "really I need you now!" As the blood was dripping from his face. Needles to say I dropped what I was doing and helped him. Damn boys always got to chime in when your busy lol
 
Quick question

Do I have to use the the aluminum pice or can I use the new plastic one. I only ask because I think the aluminum one is done for.

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