Awesome Anthony, thank you!
The Magic-heater coil looks like copper??
1956 Duomatic
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Awesome Anthony, thank you!
The Magic-heater coil looks like copper??
gyromatic
Well-known member
Plastic Piece
You need to use the plastic,the seal will only fit in this piece.Chuck the other one.
You need to use the plastic,the seal will only fit in this piece.Chuck the other one.
56 Duo-Matic
Wow Anthony you are making great progress, John E. is the go to expert on these machines.
It is neat that the water heater cleaned up so well and that you found the wattage and voltage stamp on it as well. That old copper sheathed heater will put out over 4,500watts when you run it on 240 volts that we have now, as you can see it was made in a time when we actually had just 220 volts in this country, this why people who are not well informed still call 240 voltage 220 volts.
Looking forward to seeing this machine running.
John L.
Wow Anthony you are making great progress, John E. is the go to expert on these machines.
It is neat that the water heater cleaned up so well and that you found the wattage and voltage stamp on it as well. That old copper sheathed heater will put out over 4,500watts when you run it on 240 volts that we have now, as you can see it was made in a time when we actually had just 220 volts in this country, this why people who are not well informed still call 240 voltage 220 volts.
Looking forward to seeing this machine running.
John L.
Sorry it's been so long on an update
Well guys this is were I'm at right now. Only one small problem (see pic) I'm not quite sure how I should go about fixing or patching this crucial sealing area. Any help would be awesome.
Well guys this is were I'm at right now. Only one small problem (see pic) I'm not quite sure how I should go about fixing or patching this crucial sealing area. Any help would be awesome.
Rusty Porcelain Washer Parts
Hi Anthony, The way I have dealt with items like this is to sand, wire brush or glass bead as much of the rust off the metal as possible. Then I paint the part with 2-part marine epoxy or many folks are using Pour-15, then when every thing is good and dry and ready to reassemble I reassemble it using good high temperature 100%silicone sealant, and it should be good for many years.
Hi Anthony, The way I have dealt with items like this is to sand, wire brush or glass bead as much of the rust off the metal as possible. Then I paint the part with 2-part marine epoxy or many folks are using Pour-15, then when every thing is good and dry and ready to reassemble I reassemble it using good high temperature 100%silicone sealant, and it should be good for many years.
John
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">My concern is the rust out of the flange in pic 4 it is right at the edge now and that’s where it was leaking from in the past. I was thinking of making a metal support to go on the inside and JB weld it from the inside and out with silicone over the JB. Do you think that will work? <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>
Anthony
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">My concern is the rust out of the flange in pic 4 it is right at the edge now and that’s where it was leaking from in the past. I was thinking of making a metal support to go on the inside and JB weld it from the inside and out with silicone over the JB. Do you think that will work? <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>
Anthony
Rusty Porcelain Washer Parts
Hi I would think that if everything gets coated in the epoxy paint and then gets assembled with enough silicone sealant you should not have a leak.
My concern would be if you think there is not enough metal left for good mechanical strength to hold the parts together, if this is the case then you need to start fabricating some SS plates etc which could be epoxyed in place or or again sealed in place with the silicone S if the SS plates are used like washers or flanges.
Hi I would think that if everything gets coated in the epoxy paint and then gets assembled with enough silicone sealant you should not have a leak.
My concern would be if you think there is not enough metal left for good mechanical strength to hold the parts together, if this is the case then you need to start fabricating some SS plates etc which could be epoxyed in place or or again sealed in place with the silicone S if the SS plates are used like washers or flanges.
Off topic, how is the wisdom teeth situation? It is one miserable procedure .
How is the wisdom teeth situation coming along. It is miserable. I remember having to Forcefully squirt H202 in to the sockets. with a gooseneck syringe. I wish your partner the best. Still on antibiotics? A
How is the wisdom teeth situation coming along. It is miserable. I remember having to Forcefully squirt H202 in to the sockets. with a gooseneck syringe. I wish your partner the best. Still on antibiotics? A
Started cleaning stuff up a little bit more finely and the rust is a little bit werse then I was thinking it's going to need a lot of JB weld. I got this plasti dip stuff to coat the inside with to help keep water out of the bad areas. do you guys think that's a good idea? I have never used that stuff before.
Good work!...keep plugging away..it will be worth the effort!
Rusty Porcelain Washer Parts Repair
Looks good, after the JB Weld drys and you smooth it out where you want it I would paint the whole area with the epoxy paint and then after that drys reassemble the parts using an RTV type silicone sealant and it should be good for a few more decades.
John L.
Looks good, after the JB Weld drys and you smooth it out where you want it I would paint the whole area with the epoxy paint and then after that drys reassemble the parts using an RTV type silicone sealant and it should be good for a few more decades.
John L.
gyromatic
Well-known member
Rubber Spray
I hope that is not the rubber spray in that tub.If it is it WILL peel out.I was very sorry to see this.Wish we could have talked on the phone before you did that.The 2 part Nu Porce was the proven way to go.J B Weld also is not a good application in this situation as it softens when exposed to heat.I haven't looked at this thread for a while.Darn It.
I hope that is not the rubber spray in that tub.If it is it WILL peel out.I was very sorry to see this.Wish we could have talked on the phone before you did that.The 2 part Nu Porce was the proven way to go.J B Weld also is not a good application in this situation as it softens when exposed to heat.I haven't looked at this thread for a while.Darn It.
Aluminum-Pot-Metal Drain Housing
The loose white stuff is corrosion, not detergent-soap residue, best thing is to just clean it up with steel-wool etc, or take it to work and lightly sand-blast or glass-bead it. If it is pretty thin you can two-part epoxy this as well.
The loose white stuff is corrosion, not detergent-soap residue, best thing is to just clean it up with steel-wool etc, or take it to work and lightly sand-blast or glass-bead it. If it is pretty thin you can two-part epoxy this as well.
Well I got it back together. It fired right up! Went into low speed then high speed no problems. But drying~ not so much. Some how after taking it apart one of the cal rods shorted out. But other than that the dry run went good!
Great!
Been following your progress and it's great to see you're overcoming all these obstacles.
Been following your progress and it's great to see you're overcoming all these obstacles.
Thanks for the encouragement
It needs a new belt as well I was going to go down to the tractor part store and see if they had one that would work but I figured I would ask if you guys knew of a place that would have one before I do that. now for the heating element, I was think one could remove the old cal rods and bend a bake element around to fit. dose anyone know the wattage of the factory elements? or is this just a bad idea it looks like its two 120V rods tied together so the wont fry.
It needs a new belt as well I was going to go down to the tractor part store and see if they had one that would work but I figured I would ask if you guys knew of a place that would have one before I do that. now for the heating element, I was think one could remove the old cal rods and bend a bake element around to fit. dose anyone know the wattage of the factory elements? or is this just a bad idea it looks like its two 120V rods tied together so the wont fry.
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