1957 GE Combination Project

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rp2813

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Joined
Jun 16, 2006
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And so it begins.

If there are any bugs' rights activists reading, you may want to skip these first couple of pictures.

First, the ex-Nevada residents. RCD is right. You can honk all you want, but they just won't get out of the way.

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Interior Awaiting a Serious Douching

I didn't realize that the defrost water just runs inside the cabinet down to the drain up front. I have questions about this that I will ask later.

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Gasket Shot/Shot Gasket

I'm on the hunt for replacement gaskets on both refrigerator and freezer doors. Anybody know of a source for OEM ones?

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Freezer Drain

Do any of the experts know if this is supposed to have a tube leading to the trough on the back wall of the fridge? As you can see in the picture, the drain outlet is significantly further away from the rear wall than the trough is. I would think that freezer defrost water would drop directly onto contents of the refrigerator as things are now.

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Crisper Covers

These will clean up nicely. Note the leveling foot with bent threaded portion. It was a 90-degree bend and it broke off when I was trying to pry it away from where it was tucked enough to unscrew it. All feet were adjusted out so far that it was like the fridge was on stilts. I screwed the rest in all the way. I haven't yet developed a strategy for the situation with the one that broke off.

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A Question for the Experts

I noticed that the trough on the rear wall has no outlet. It's as if the water accumulates enough to overflow, then would run down the corners to the floor. You can see in the pictures the dark streaks where this seems to have been occurring.

So does the trough always have residual water in it? There are dividers in the trough that would prevent all of it from draining away.

And, if the fridge is supposed to defrost itself, is the cap for the floor drain supposed to be removed at all times? If so, why even have a cap?

I really need an owners guide for this machine, or a similar vintage GE that employs this same system.
 
The space in the middle of the serpentine coil was for tall bottles. If a bottle touched the coil, the contents froze. The refrigeration system ran until the coil reached a below zero temperature then it cycled off. The melt water from the coil helped humidify the fresh food section.

One sure way to have a bad odor develop in the kitchen was to have food get in the defrost water evaporation pan under that drain where it got warm and stayed wet--UGH. At least if food stayed in the refrigerated portion of the box, it did not decompose as quickly with as bad an odor. That is why spilled milk would really have a kitchen smelling bad if it drained into the water pan.
 
Thanks again Tom. I think I can create a tubing assembly from the freezer drain outlet to direct it over to the trough. Maybe the black plastic drip irrigation stuff will be the right size.

Also, regarding the gaskets, do they only go on one way? I have noticed both gaskets have a nice crisp sharp edge where they meet the cabinet--on the hinge side only. The edges on the handle side are more rounded. I reversed the gasket on the freezer door to temporarily put the torn section on the hinged side. It hides and closes up the tear well, but the sharp edge that's now at the handle side isn't sealing exactly perfectly. Of course, after 53 years of being on there, the gaskets have taken on their own unique shape as a result of being smunched against the cabinet all that time.
 
freezer drain outlet

Remember, the only time water will come out of that drain in the middle of the roof of the fresh food section is when you are defrosting the freezer in which case you'd set a pan on the top shelf to catch it...

BTW, I'm glad to see that Ca. bugs are just as stupid as NV. bugs... LOL!

RCD
 
Thanks Andy, I wasn't sure if defrosting the freezer was as painless as defrosting the fridge, and thought maybe it employed the same drain in the fridge floor. A pan is easy enough, but is there any reason why I couldn't rig a tube to route the defrost water into the trough?

One more question answered. I'm sure there will be more to come.

Ralph
 
Progress

Today I removed and rotated the fridge door gasket after cleaning it up while still attached. I was horrified to see that after re-installing the gasket there was a huge gap all along the top of the door and down a portion of the handle side, but it turns out that the door can twist a bit, and I was able to shift it back into a position that gave a good seal all the way around. I think this may stem from the magnets being down low on the fridge door, so whenever it's opened, the top area is being pulled away before the magnets release. If I can't find OEM replacement gaskets, I'll find something to patch up the tears with. They aren't noticeable at all on the hinged side of both doors now.

Tomorrow I'll tackle the cabinet interior (freezer is already done), the shelves, the crisper assemblies and the diffusers for the two lower lights. The exterior will need some appliance touch-up as well as a good cleaning and waxing. The condenser coils will get a good vacuuming. It's been a while.

More pictures as things start to take shape. With any luck, this machine could be moving into its new home before the end of the week.
 
It's a Bug's Life

What's the last thing that goes through a bug's mind as it hits the windshield? It's rectum!
 
Kelly, wouldn't it be the other way around?

I suppose for some of the AW membership, there would be no windshield required . . .
 
DEFROSTING THE FREEZER

Its easier to put a pan on the top shelf when defrosting the freezer. If you run the water down the drain to the pan under the frig it will likely over flow and its harder than emptying a pan sitting on the top shelf, GE knew what they were doing when they designed this refrigerator.
 
Thanks John, you are absolutely right about accessing the pan under the fridge. Unlike modern ones, this machine has two hex head bolts fastening the grille, and then you have to push the pedal down in order to slide the grille out.

Ralph
 
Shelf Adjustment

Can anyone advise on how to raise and lower the revolving shelves? I'd like one of those shelves to accommodate taller items than it's set for currently.
 
Adjusting shelves

My neighbors aren't home right now, so I can't ask them, but I think I remember there being a button on the front of the raised part that attaches the shelf to the pole. I think it pushes in to release a clamp that holds it in place. If you can't get it to move, let me know and I'll ask them when they get back.
 
Shelves

Normally the shelves just rotate about the shaft, but if you depress the button on the front of the shelf, you can adjust the height - depending on whether you rotate the shelf clockwise or counterclockwise.

Lawrence
 
DEFROSTING THE FREEZER

Its easier to put a pan on the top shelf when defrosting the freezer. If you run the water down the drain to the pan under the frig it will likely over flow and its harder than emptying a pan sitting on the top shelf, GE knew what they were doing when they designed this refrigerator.
 
Tom and Lawrence,

I can raise the shelves but they won't stay put. They won't even lock to keep from spinning. I'm thinking the entire assembly the button mechanism rests on needs to move up the post. It appears the post is threaded and I think there must be a way to move the locking mechanism upward or downward otherwise the shelf would spin freely when separated from it, and have almost zero support to hold any contents besides maybe cotton candy.

I'll keep studying it for clues.

Ralph
 
Also

Feature #11 in the '57 Combo literature is "Removable and Adjustable Door Shelves."

Feature #8 is "Revolving Shelves." Nothing about adjustable, however in the illustration at top left, they are described as "fully adjustable when loaded" and there is clearly less post showing above the upper revolving shelf's control button.

My machine's shelves are not configured like the large view below. The lowest revolving shelf on mine barely clears the crispers' shelves. I've also seen an example where the lowest shelf is just above the crispers enough to slide a pie onto a crisper shelf.

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More Pix

Thanks Lawrence, I'll be interested in the service manual information.

The machine is all cleaned up and ready to go, except for the two feet up front that have issues. I'm hoping to rectify that situation today.

Remember that filthy torn up gasket on the refrigerator door? Here is is again to save everybody some scrolling.

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After

Here's the gasket after being cleaned, removed, and installed "upside down" so the tear is now on the hinged side down low. I still want to repair the torn section somehow in case the hunt for OEM gaskets takes a while.

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