1960 Maytag Highlander Restoration Progress (Pix)

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OUCH!

That's more than my total bill of costs! OUCH! I think it may be worth my time to try some "southern" engineering on the shaft and see if I can get anything to bond and hold to fill in the gaps. I'm thinking of possibly using a very hard epoxy, and then polishing it off with fine sandpaper. Think it would work?

For $91 I'm willing to try it........
 
I'm thinking of possibly using a very hard epoxy

JB Weld may work. It'll probably be a little time consuming to get a concentrically smooth surface, but I'm willing to bet it's very much possible.
 
Stem Seal...

Yes, it has a brand new stem seal in it. New seals all around, new spin bearing, etc.

I went and looked at work and we've got some 5 ton 2-part epoxy for metal. I think that may be just what the doctor ordered, slather it on, let it set, smooth it off, and I think I may be back in business!

Timer Dial:
The lettering on the timer dial on this model is recessed in the plastic. The original paint was very crumbly and LITERALLY came out when hit with water. It was in terrible shape anyway. I cleaned it all off and rubbed it down with alcohol to get rid of any oily residue (the whole washer was NASTY with fabric softener) and then painted the lettering with gloss white model car enamel. I used a tiny paintbrush and took care to not go outside the lines. What did go out was sanded very carefully off with 1200 grit sandpaper. Well you see the results......it looks brand new. Better than new actually since it's glossy paint instead of the original flat!

Took and Ran:
Well I like a challenge. I do fix up vacuums as well (see my link below for a Hoover 105 Resto job...) and I've wanted a Maytag for a LONG time. This one came along and satisfied both wants in one place! I'll say one thing......washer restoration is neither cheap OR easy! It definitely gives you a new respect for the machines you see on this site that are so amazingly well restored! This one turned out nice (especially for my lack of skill), but it's nowhere NEAR some of the ones I've seen on here!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ttuee2006/collections/72157608126120810/
 
More Pix

Here's some more pix from the restoration process...

This one is of the right side before it was repainted.....what a wreck!

3-22-2009-19-59-52--ttuee2006.jpg
 
Basepan Painted

Stripped the base pan down to bare metal and repainted with 2 coats of "rusty metal" Rustoleum...

3-22-2009-20-03-20--ttuee2006.jpg
 
View from the top

First picture taken with the cover back on. Too bad the original bakelite agitator is long gone. Top is porcelain coated, so it was just cleaned up as best as possible. It's scratched a bit, but nothing horrible, so I figured leave well enough alone...

3-22-2009-20-09-40--ttuee2006.jpg
 
Agi shaft -

If your attempts with epoxy fall short, you could always opt for a parts machine. More than likely you can find a 70's or 80's BOL 'Tag near by for cheep or nearly free. I can't say I've seen them by the thousands, but I haven't seen these get this bad on later machines (probably due to the non-splined Power Fins.)

The machine came out stunning!

Ben
 
Scratch removal

Try aggressively(!) rubbing some medium grade rubbing compound on the scratched areas of the porcelain (don't do this on the cabinet, you'll wear through the paint). I was able to make some deep scratches (deeper than yours) disappear on the porcelain top of my A806 using this procedure.
 
Wow, that is the same washer we had when I was growing up. I remember the day (around 1967 I think) we got it, actually it was in the evening and my mom, dad and I were down in the basement watching it work for the first time! Prior to that my mom had a wringer washer (don't know what brand it was). I do remember it had a black agitator and the lint catcher was chrome with the black cup on the top and the black rubber band on the bottom. My mom used that washer up until the day she died in 2001. I don't remember it ever needing a repair other than a new belt.

Gary
 
HOLY CRAP!!!!!

I FIXED THE SHAFT!!!!!! IT WORKS! IT WORKS!!!!! I'M STILL PINCHING MYSELF!!!!!

Videos and an explanation to follow shortly!
 
How I fixed the Shaft

So I fixed the shaft with many, many coats of cold-galvanizing compound. I'd spray a coat, let it cure, then sand it off. The result is that the small holes and imperfections towards the top of the shaft were filled in with zinc. Below is a picture of the shaft when it was still in the process of being fixed, but you can see how many of the holes have been filled already at this point. The finished product was a smooth shaft until the very bottom. There was a little bit of pitting at the lower end of the shaft, but the seal didn't ride there.....so I didn't bother filling those in!

As an added bonus.......I NEVER have to worry about that shaft rusting ever again!

3-26-2009-23-25-24--ttuee2006.jpg
 
The Fill Flume

The siphon break on this washer works fine the way it is, however it tends to spray a bit! I think that's what the original rubber hose was in there for to bypass it.

I took it a step further and bypassed the siphon break, but still allowed the air gap! Gotta love vinyl tubing...

3-26-2009-23-28-54--ttuee2006.jpg
 
Indexing tub

Indexing tub is a maladjusted stop lug, worn brake package (weak internal spring), or the trans fluid is too thick (could also be all of the above). Did you crack open the trans and change the fluid?
 
Tranny...

I didn't change the transmission fluid. Honestly I don't know how to go about it, and I don't want to get in over my head! I'm pretty sure the transmission oil is too thick, but I don't want to screw something up trying to change it! Something for another day when I've learned how to take care of it a little better.

I also know that the spring is, in fact, a bit weak. Again......something I have no clue how to service, and I don't want to screw it up!
 

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