1962 GE Spacemaker TC469 Refrigerator - "Repaired" - still does not work. NEED HELP!

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kelly0721

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
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102
Location
Lakewood, Colorado
A year ago I sent my refrigerator out to be repaired and finally got it back this past week, but it still does not work. The compressor was replaced with a Panasonic R134A DGH66C94RAU compressor, but the fridge still has the same problem it originally had. When plugged in it gets cold, but after a few hours the compressor shuts down and everything defrosts. The compressor does not seem to be connected to the fan any longer, but the repairman said that this new compressor did not need a fan. I have included photos of the new compressor and just to the right of the compressor in front of the fan, as well as the data sheet for the compressor. I am beyond frustrated after waiting a year and getting the refrigerator back with the same problem! If additional photos are needed, I will have my son help me move it from the wall and take more. If anyone has any ideas of what I need to do to get this working, I would appreciate it. Thanks! [this post was last edited: 5/22/2019-08:50]

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fan must run

the condenser fan must run regardless of what compressor is installed or the condenser will heat soak,overloading the compressor.Also the rear cover must be in place so air drawn by the fan circulates over the condenser properly.If the rear cover is missing,a new one is easy to make-just make sure it is open or vented behind the fan baffle.
 
This is a very sad situation. I would assume you've contacted the repairing shop and they have not been able to provide any satisfaction for you? I would first give them the chance to make it right.

In agreement with the sentiment above; the condenser fan must run. Period, no exceptions. If the compressor runs without the fan, the condenser will overheat. This puts way too much load on the compressor. It will then overload and trip.

Regardless of whether or not the wiring for the fan is directly connected to the compressor's terminals (like the original) it must be connected so that it runs when the compressor is running.

The rear cover of the fridge must also be in place for the condenser to be cooled by the fan. The cover directs air through the condenser.

While it is true that some modern compressors don't need a fan to blow across the compressor HOUSING; that does not eliminate the need for a condenser fan.

I have a feeling that once the fan is running, the compressor will most likely function normally.
 
fan must run

That is what I thought. How do I get the fan running again with this new configuration? Are there any parts I need to purchase? If so, should I purchase the original parts or new parts that work with the new compressor? I do have a cover, it was removed to take photos. I just plugged it in and I don't see the fan running at all. I have included new photos with it running.

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fan must run

turbokinetic, It is very sad. I had the repairman return it after a year being gone. He told me that he had consulted an "old timer" who said that it did not need a fan. When he returned it he said he did not know what else he could do and could not fix it. It took me nine months just to find this guy who could not fix it. Every other repairman refused to do it. I am beside myself with what to do next.
 
Oh Boy

The wiring is a mess, and the installation of the compressor is very sloppy. the fan motor just gets connected to the black & orange wires going to the compressor, the fan and compressor are wired in parallel.

It looks like an original condenser fan motor, if it has three wires instead of two like newer fan motors you will need to replace the CFM with a newer 2 wire motor.

John L.
 
Oh Boy

I just want to cry. I wanted this fridge so badly and tried everything I could to get it running. I printed out all the suggestions from this site, told him what was thought to be wrong with it and he just ignored me. I even referred him to this site to ask questions if he was stuck. He ignored that too. After he quit giving us monthly updates after a year, I asked him to bring it back to me. I am so bummed. :(
 
Kelly, again I really feels bad that you've had this experience. As a service engineer, I know that we all eventually encounter something we can't fix. The fact of the matter is, it is something which becomes apparent after, at most 2 or 3 different repair attempts. None of this should take more than a few weeks of testing and adjusting to either fix it, or make the call that it's not going to happen.

There are several very good folks here who could make this work like new again. It's one of the problems with our country being so large and spread-out. Good repair people are few and far-between.

I don't know how technical you are; or if you have a family member or friend who is technical. It seems that the sealed system is working, if it will start cooling and frost up. At this point, it seems as if the hard part is done and the remaining problems would be fairly easy to remedy.

As John said, the condenser fan and the compressor each have two wires. The power supply to the compressor comes from the circuitry inside the fridge and provides power on the two wires, which appear to be the orange and black.

The condenser fan motor should have one of it's wires connected together with the orange compressor wire; and its other wire connected to the black compressor wire. Both the fan and the compressor share the same power feed.

The newer fan motors just have two wires and will hook up as explained above. Some of the really old ones had three wires, and will not work without the original compressor in the circuit.

Check these things:
1 - Does the fan spin freely? If you spin it by hand it should take no effort to turn, and it should take a few rotations to stop after you push it.

2 - Does the fan have 2; or does it have more wires?

The good news is, that these fan motors are fairly easy to source, if it's a 3-wire motor or if the motor is bad.
 
You're almost there -- don't give up!

I'm casting another vote for the fan needing to run.  It's fairly easy to make that happen, even if it requires a new fan.  They're not expensive and are commonly used among various makes of refrigerators so you don't have to track down a genuine GE part or anything.

 

One thing to make sure of is to get the blade assembly along with the fan motor.  I replaced the fan motor on my '57 GE and the replacement motor didn't have the same mounting for the blade as the old motor.  I had to make alterations to the fan blade and it still was compromised in its performance.

 

First, check your fan motor to see how many wires it has.  If it has only two, then just connect those to the compressor leads as instructed above.  If it has three wires, remove the fan motor (you may have to remove the blade first -- it's probably held by a simple zip-nut), which is best accomplished with a small socket wrench or a nut driver.  Examine the motor to see how the blade gets locked into place, and make sure the replacement motor has the same configuration.

 

Usually, fan motors have connectors on the ends of the wires that slide onto their associated connectors on the relay block.  I don't see a relay in the pictures above, but I assume there has to be one.   You'll find the compressor's orange and black wires connected to it, and likely there will be additional unused connectors for the fan wires on those same terminals.
 
Replacement condenser fan motors

The commonly available condenser fan motors have wiring attached to it, also the original fan blade should be used it just Hass to be modified slightly by folding the tabs over I’ve done it hundreds of times it’s better to use the original fan blade.

You can use whirl pool part number 833697 as a replacement
 
turbokinetic, The fan moves freely. It has three wires as seen in the attached photos. In the photos I label where each wire goes from the fan to where they end up.

I have called the repairman who I convinced to fix my vintage Maytag W/D and he agreed to come out to look at the fridge. I was worried he wouldn't be okay with looking at it because I have been turned down so many times by other people. Hopefully, he can figure out what to do. I am going to print out all the suggestions from everyone on this thread for him.

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Wow.... that is a mess of wiring! The three-wire fan motor will need to be replaced with a two-wire one. As for the wiring configuration; the defrost system is probably incorrectly connected as well. Hopefully John will be able to advise on the wiring configuration for the hot-gas defrost valve. I'm not extremely familiar with this system and can't advise "off the top of my head" so to speak.

It's very good you have someone who's coming to look at it! That's great news!

Sincerely,
David
 
David,

Yes, it is quite a mess of wiring back there.

I am very relieved to have Anthony (my repairman) on the case. He was so helpful with my Maytag set. I am sure he will know what to do. :)

Thank you for all your advice!
 
You're welcome. I'm glad to be helpful! John has more experience than I do on the Spacemakers. He did post the part number for a 2-wire fan motor. You may want to highlight that for Anthony, as well. His company quite likely h as one in stock.

Hopeful to see a favorable outcome on the repair!

I did send you a PM as well.
 
I bet .....

this one would work. Looks like it will mount right in using the original tri-mount arms.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/WP5109-2-W...tor-for-Whirlpool-Kenmore-833697/151902663040

And yes, the back cover must be installed for the fan to work. It pulls air from the bottom front thru condenser coils, around compressor and thru the fan from left to right side. The motor turns CW to pull air from compressor side and across the fan motor to the right side.
 
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