1966 Lady Kenmore Dryer with Soft Heat, part 2

[akronman]

I finally got it indoors and plugged in, then the boyfriend headed out on a trip with the digital camera, so for now no new pics, here's the old link below to the original thread.

 

I ran 3 loads of clothes, it seems to do best so far when set on 5 of 8, 8 being dampest. Then I tore into it, more lint on the motor than I have ever seen, and almost no space left up the blower/filter/exhaust tube, more lint than I could believe, yet the airflow out the exhaust hose seemed fine. The bulb in the console is missing and seems to be a rare size, we'll see. the drum light is burned out too, of course.

 

I have plenty of WP dryer motor experience, I'll clean and lube and all should be well there.

 

John Combo was right, the low watt heating element was clearly broken so the drying seemed to take longer than I expected, but was accurately dried nonetheless. I will soon order a new element, but with the break about 1 inch from the soldered connection, I will also re-solder this one and I bet it will work. So I get only 1475 watts instead of 1500 on the small element, big deal. I'll photo it, seems a dumb design with significantly thinner NiChrome wire than the larger 4100 watt element, they should have instead used the same heavier wire for both, just tremendously less a length for the 1500 watts versus 4100, it would still be working 47 years later.

 

It's in great shape, the felt at the drum rear and nylon glides at drum front are in fine shape, the 2 rollers are good, etc. Minor interior rust, though if you check the other thread you'll see a less than gorgeous drum interior. Any ideas on painting that, or just wipe it clean and leave it? I don't need heated up paint on clothes.

 

The adjustable buzzer is plenty loud but can be turned off, GREAT!!! The cabinet is 29 wide but doesn't have the extra-depth rear end, still a fine size drum. My 92 Kenmore dryer has the extra 2.5ish inches stuck out behind the cabinet for  tremendous depth, when did WP start that?

 

As nice as this did already, I can't wait until both elements work and it really does the modulating "Soft Heat" thing. And I can't wait for that camera to come back, you can't imagine how solid the console is, one piece and strong solid manufacturing, with less pitted chrome/plastic/silver than on almost any other golden oldie I have! Hopefully I'll find the correct flourescent bulb before the photo shoot.

 

 

 

 

Lady Kenmore Dryer

This will be my first LADY K machine, "works but doesn't heat up" for $25, I pick it up tomorrow. I'm good at repairing Whirlpool dryers, they are EASY, but I don't know much about the features or buttons on this one yet, nor its era. Info? Thanks Mark

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[akronman]

drum

here's a reprint of the drum shot, anyone have painting advice, or leave well enough alone instead of staining clothes with a bad paint job? It feels worn away for years, there's no new paint chips/flakes coming off.

 

[combo52]

1966 LKM Electric Dryer

Mark glad you got it running, the problem with the 1400 watt element was not its thin size wire [ this is necessary to produce the correct wattage, if heaver wire had been used at this length it would produce about 12,000 watts and last about a minute before it would burn out ] the reason these smaller elements failed was because they tended to sag and bunch up at the bottom near the terminals overheat at this point and burn out. You can reattach and carefully restretch the element and just above each insulator untwist the coiled element a little to keep it from sagging again. You can not resolder the element to the terminals as solder will just melt and come loose, you can however braze or weld the wire back in place if you like. Another way to reattach the element is to drill a hole in the steel terminal and attach the end of the element with a plated steel nut and bolt, I have done this many times.

 

And when you slightly shorten this [ or any element ] you will get a higher wattage [ or heat output ] so you will go from 1400 to maybe 1450 watts. You can make a measurement with an ohm meter and figure the exact wattage based on your homes voltage.

 

Keep Us Posted, John

 

[akronman]

John, Thanks

John--I always mention my wildest ideas here so I get advice before I start! Thank you---

Any painting advice, or leave that drum rear bulkhead alone?

 

[bajaespuma]

Mark, thank you for asking this question about painting the dryer drum. I've asked this before and nobody has even ventured a suggestion. Maybe somebody out there has some knowledge about the finishes used on these non-porcelainized painted drums. I have a flaky Monkeyward/Norge that I'd like to fix if it's possible.

 

[kenmoreguy64]

Mark -

It sounds like you're enjoying learning about your new dryer, and this is really fun to read.

The console flourescent light is still available from Whirlpool last time I checked, and not highly expensive either, not for a vintage part anyway.

As to the drum, for a long time, and maybe still today, Whirlpool offered a spray can enamel to re-paint drums, which supposedly matched the original gray color. I've not seen the tan paint from the early 1980s or a white to match the powder coating of 1984-ish to current but they may be available as well.

Below is a picture of a dryer of mine which I've owned since 1989 (its a 1977 Kenmore) and have been using as a daily driver since 2007. I had given it to my sister in 1989 and she used it until 2000 with a family. Mine has the 2.5 inch extended rear panel, thus the bulkhead is much more contoured vs. the flat-back 5.9 cu ft dryer, leaving more surface area for clothes to wear the paint off. Keep in mind that my dryer has MANY MANY MANY loads/miles on it.

Though the surfaces look bad, they are baby-butt smooth, and not at all rusty. I'd consider painting this area, but from everything I've ever heard, the spray enanel doesn't last long and wears right back off. If I was being really fussy on a restoration, I'd probably take a drum like this to a powder coater, but this machine works fine as-is.

My Mother's early 1983 dryer is wearing too, but hers is steel polished/shiny in the wear spots. I don't know if mine discolored due to heat or because it was in a moist storage trailer from 2000 to 2007, or perhaps because Mom's has the original tan finish which may have different color primers, but whatever the reason, the surfaces don't seem to create a problem and I never think about them. At this point I keep this dryer running because it works well, and its fun to keep putting more miles on it.

Gordon

 

[akronman]

Gordon

Thanks for the pics and the painting advice, meaning leave the paint job as is, well worn away! I am medium fussy about restorations, but also lazy enough to know some 47 year old worn items will never look new again. Thank you. I dont' look like I did 47 years ago, trust me.

 

Within a few days I'll have more work done and heater repairs and my camera back---

 

An applaince parts website, I forget which, had the bulb and a picture of it, I got the pn# directly from the bulb. Ebay has 3 for $18, on order. I sure never heard of a 26"bulb, but I measured the missing space, they are right. There's no independent switch for it, I'll find out if it's only when running, or goes on when you open the door, etc. I like the console nightlights from my machines on all the time, cheap flourescent wattage can't ruin my electric bill. For me, the console light is more important the the drum painting!! The plasitc light cover is pretty yellowed, oh well.

<h1 id="itemTitle" class="it-ttl">Sylvania F18T8/CW/K26</h1>

 

[danemodsandy]

Mark:

"The plasitc light cover is pretty yellowed, oh well."

There is hope!

Retr0Bright is a chemical process that removes UV and cigarette yellowing from plastics. It uses chemicals that are reasonably easy to obtain, and does not require a lot of special equipment. It is a DIY process, not a product you buy. The Retr0Bright Website explains it all in detail, with some pretty impressive "Before and After" examples. Here's a photo of a collectible Commodore 64 keyboard that has been treated with Retr0Bright on one half, and left untreated on the other. The photo is shared here under Creative Commons licensure, and is attributed to the Retr0Bright Website:

http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/

 

[akronman]

blower

 

Sandy--I have bookmarked the Retro-Bright website, thank you--that might be the answer---the lens looks like someone p'd on it, yecch

[this post was last edited: 2/26/2013-16:07]

 

[danemodsandy]

Mark:

I hope the Retr0Bright process helps with your lens. One thing I enjoy hugely about some of our members' restorations is that they often return appliances to "showroom new" condition.

That dryer of yours is a highly desirable one, so if you're able to get it back to what it was when new, you'll have a treasure.

BTW, if you're taking votes, I'm all for seeing that dryer drum repainted.

 

[cleanteamofny]

As for the rear bulk head, it's replaceable. A donor dryer will do the trick if you can find one real cheap!

 

[ovrphil]

Happy for you - I love the graphics / cursive written labels and simplicity of the design. I'm half and half with how the drum looks...I'd leave it like Gordon's machine - it doesn't look so bad, it looks like a well worn pair of jeans. If I could afford it, I would have it powder coated, as time and $ allowed. Congrats! Nice to see another Vintage Lady Kenmore's of the 60's being cared after, to work again like new.

 

[akronman]

drum/bulkhead

my $25 dryer is already at about $150, new heater element, lint filter, hinges, paint/primer, bulbs, incidentals. I just can't also afford the powder coating. Once it's back togehter in a few more days, I'll never tear it down to swap bulkheads, so I think the rear bulkhead will continue to wear away for 47 more years and it will dry clothes well regardless. Between my budget and the  age of various machines and my abilities to restore them, I'm ok with sometimes saying it's the very best I myself could do with my hobby. You guys advice is needed and appreciated, but I also like to say some machine's restoration is MY best work, not some professional painter or sand-blaster. Just personal preference (and low $$$$)

 

The better camera and the various new parts should all arrive in a few days, I'll keep posting. This Lady is fully naked and ready for paint.

 

 

[this post was last edited: 2/27/2013-10:07]

 

[danemodsandy]

Mark:

This is just a comment, okay? This is your dryer and you're the one who gets to say what happens.

You can paint that drum yourself, and painting it would actually be a more correct restoration than powder-coating, because powder-coating wasn't used in '66. It's kind of like classic cars - I've seen two beautiful Mustangs judged, and one came out on top for the trophy because it didn't have a modern urethane clear-coat paint job; it had the kind of paint Ford used on it when new. The modern paint job was "prettier," and "better" in terms of protecting the car, but it wasn't as accurate a representation of 1965 technology as the winner.

Whatever you do, know that I really admire the dryer and your efforts. I once had the matching washer, and wanted the dryer to go with it. I did an awful lot of looking, but never found it - this was pre-Internet. If I had found the dryer to make a pair, I might never have gotten into Maytags - I would have been very satisfied to own the Lady K's.

Of course, I'd have had all kinds of issues over the years with dispensers, solenoids, etc....

You can't have everything.

P.S.: I hear you about the cost of parts and supplies. I'm into a Maytag A806 for about $200 worth of stuff at this point.

 

[akronman]

Sandy

Sandy---Thanks for the info and advice, cool.

After about my third machine, I started a spreadsheet to list repairs, prices, new items installed, etc, model #, serial#. It's all over the charts as to total $$ invested per machine, some $20 machine with $10 in parts, then another one for $100 plus over $100 in parts, it's crazy. Maybe I should just delete the spreadsheet and enjoy!

 

As for the matching washer, it seems quite rare that I get that. I have near-match late 70's Maytags, perfect match 78 1-18 almond washer and dryer, then 13 other total mismatch washer and dryers, oh well. Are we allowed to dry Whirplool washed clothes in a GE Dryer? Seems sinful.

 

[danemodsandy]

Here's How I See It:

Yes, resurrecting vintage appliances can cost a fair amount in parts and supplies - BUT....

You end up with something much more solidly made than anything you can buy now. You're usually free of today's El Cheapo electronics. And, a couple of hundred for needed stuff positively pales next to the purchase price of new appliances.

When I'm through with the new 806 pair, I'll have something like $300 in them. Contrast that with the current Maytag Centennial pair, which go for close to $1000 - and that's street price, not MSRP.

Big difference. I suspect the 806s will still be trundling along long after a Centennial pair will have been recycled into Hyundai fenders. To say nothing of being able to do a hot wash that really is a hot wash.

And one last observation: I don't know how anyone else does it, but when I buy washer parts and supplies, it's out of pocket, as sort of a petty cash expenditure. Compare that to the poor schmo who has to have a new washer and dryer right now, and runs down to the local big-box store to get them - on a credit card, at 21 percent interest.

We here at AW are truly the champions.

 

[akronman]

yea

I hadn't thought of that, but you are right. Between a USED stove, fridge, Westinghouse roaster, KitchenAid mixer, dishwasher, 15 or so washers and dryers, a spare "Thanksgiving oven" in the basement and a spare apartment sized fridge sitting next to it, I've never used a credit card cent, always out-of -pocket spending cash and darn cheap.

 

[ovrphil]

Powder coating? Did I SAAAAY that? Well, to be sure, if it wasn't done in '66, then I agree with Sandy.
So, when you do start painting, and you are the painter, right? ....will you do one prime and sand then two coats of paint or .....would like to know what your strategy is.

 

[akronman]

paint

On the interior, lots of sanding then 2 primer coats. On the bottom exterior, sand, 2x prime, 2x top coat. The exterior sides and back are pretty darn good, minor touch up needed only. The entire front has scratches, wear at the door edges, etc and yellowed after 47 years so it clearly doesn't match the nice pure white porcelain top. With all the rest of the machine apart and motor cleaning and parts on order, I haven't touched the front yet. Likely total dissasembly, sand and prime and 2 nice white epoxy topcoats, it's done well for me on other machines. Only the front will be exposed once installed, I ain't gonna do the entire cabinet exterior when it's 97% ok on the sides.