1967 G.E. MOBILE MAID PUMP IMPELLER IS OUT! PICS!

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support AutomaticWasher.org:

soberleaf

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
1,195
i got the shaft! off that is! i rigged up a pump impeller puller from wood and bolts and it did the trick. wanted to share pics in case anyone else has a similiar problem with a stuck impeller. here goes!

first off this is the motor off the mobile maid with the wash impeller very much stuck on the shaft.

5-31-2009-20-08-52--soberleaf.jpg
 
Sleeve Bearings...

The type of lubrication in a sleeve bearing matters because of HOW it works.

The sleeve is made of a porous metal (usually Bronze or a bronze alloy). The way it works is that oil is soaked into the pores and creates a microscopic film of oil on the surface of the metal. As the bearing warms up, more oil flows out of the pores in the metal and thickens the layer of oil. During operation, the shaft doesn't actually touch the metallic bearing due to the layer of oil. If kept lubricated properly, the bearing will literally last forever. Most larger motors (think thousands of horsepower) use exclusively sleeve bearings due to the longevity. They actually bathe the entire bearing house in a pool of oil! Some bearings have been around for over a century and are still in operation. Most hydroelectric dams in the northeast have GE gensets which are still running in their original condition with bronze bearings. Those have been turning daily for over 100 years..... I have a Hoover 105 vacuum in my collection from 1919 that's got bronze bearings and still runs like the day it was new! It's been cleaning houses for 90 years!

The problem with grease is that it clogs the pores of the bronze. As soon as the grease gets hot, it becomes a nasty sludgy mess that glazes the bronze. When/if that happens, the bearing is ruined permanently. After the glaze forms, the bearing is no longer lubricated. The shaft will rub on the metal and well.....that's the end of it!

Engine oil is even worse. It contains detergents that are designed to remove impurities and "clean" corrosion or deposits from inside an engine. In the engine, that's what you want it to do! However, when the detergents are in a bronze bearing, they react with the bronze filings that are inherent in the design of the bearing. They in turn actually eat the bronze and turn it into a swiss-cheese like substance. If you've ever used engine oil in a sleeve bearing, pull the shaft out and look what's on it. It'll have a dark black tar-like substance on it. That's the nasty gunk that's come out of the bearing. If you ever use car engine oil in a bronze bearing, you CAN save it if it hasn't been operated for a long time. Soak it in turpentine and get all the traces out of it, then wash it out with Acetone. Soak the whole thing (we're talking FLOOD) with detergent-free oil and let it sit over night. The oil will soak in the bearing and you'll be good to go!

A bearing that's had grease packed in it though is history, never to be saved. If it hasn't been run, you can save it by using the solvent method above, but if the shaft has turned for any time at all, that bearing's days are numbered....
 
first of all i had to

cut the white plastic pump guard strainer off with my dremel so i could see what the impeller looks like. i may be able to find a new strainer when i go to modern parts house in parma this week. if not oh well!

i then put impeller between 2 boards to support it. that's when i got the idea to build a pump impeller puller.

5-31-2009-20-12-25--soberleaf.jpg
 
the impeller is shaped like a funnel

it has a small round base and fans out near the top, like an ice cream cone actually. i decided to mount it on a board with a hole in it to support and hold it without putting pressure on the impeller blades.

i was sure they would break under the pressure of pushing that shaft off.

so a trip down home depot's lumber and hardware aisle and 12 bucks later i was in business!

here is the board with the hole cut in it.

5-31-2009-20-29-38--soberleaf.jpg
 
the idea was

to assemble it around impeller shaft and then clamp it together using more boards, 1 by 3 lumber firing strips.

5-31-2009-20-32-17--soberleaf.jpg
 
next i started building the

impeller puller out of 5/16 threaded rod that i bought and cut into 12 inch sections. i used fender washers and nuts to anchor it down into it's little "impeller puller tower"

this was starting to be fun!

5-31-2009-20-36-18--soberleaf.jpg
 
next i put

2 firing strips on the top of the threaded rod to act as the "push" behind the impeller removal. i secured them with nuts and fender washers and drilled a 5/16 hole thru the center directly above the center of the motor shaft on the impeller.

you follow me here?

i soaked it all again in pb blaster

the idea is when i turn a nut on the center rod it will tighten up on the rod against the firing strips screwing the rod downward. the rod touches a bolt i screwed into the motor shaft. i did not use origional bolt that holds impeller on but bought a longer one.

as i continued to turn the nut the rod was screwed down and it literally pushed the shaft off the impeller which was tightly lodged in it's wooden cradle. yet the impeller blades were toughing nothing!

crude set up but it worked perfactly!

5-31-2009-20-40-23--soberleaf.jpg
 
another view

after impeller was lifted off shaft about 1/2 inch. i could feel it moving and it made a creaking sound with every turn of the nut! the wood was groaning a bit too! very interesting experience i must say!

5-31-2009-20-46-30--soberleaf.jpg
 
almost

done here! i am excited. there are no more top impellers around i was told by larry in parma at modern parts house. if i break this impeller i'm screwed! if i don't break it the impeller is screwed! off the shaft, literally!

i wasn't the one that got screwed!

5-31-2009-20-49-52--soberleaf.jpg
 
yeaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

it's off. i took everything in to the sink and washed it all in good soapy water. the pump housing looks great, the impeller is fine, i will however replace the o ring along it's bottom that seals it against the lower drain impeller. the seals look good actually!

5-31-2009-20-52-12--soberleaf.jpg
 
here is the lower

drain pump housing. seal is pressed into it.

the drain impeller is in the background and is the other half of the seal. both look good actually, i wonder if that was where the leak was coming from?

5-31-2009-20-53-7--soberleaf.jpg
 
here is the drain impeller

a bit beat up looking but actually it's just discolored. it's metal.

it will shine right up with a wire brush on the drill

5-31-2009-20-55-52--soberleaf.jpg
 
and here is that marvelous

spray arm that i remember from when i was a kid! i love those super big water jets! those are some major holes there! it's amazing it can pump enough water to supply those large holes and the tower shower!

actually i had a service tech friend i met on this site tell me they were not particularily great dishwashers and didn't really move that much water!

5-31-2009-21-01-47--soberleaf.jpg
 
love that spray arm though

this used to intrigue me to no end when i was a kid!

God only knows why?!

5-31-2009-21-03-48--soberleaf.jpg
 
Back
Top