1967 Lady Kenmore washer side check valve

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4bagger

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Joined
Mar 16, 2020
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79
Location
Long Beach
Picked this up a couple years ago and just now attempting to put into service. Along with a few gallons of water on my garage floor, I discovered that the side check valve needs replacing. Part number in the catalog is 86935. Can't locate by that part number anywhere. Found some online, that look the same but none have this part number referenced. If I can track down the part,I assume the tub has to be removerd to replace. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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What a nice washer! I have one in copper tone. That part number crosses over to Whirlpool part number 350397. I hope this information helps and you are able to put this machine back into service.
 
I was able to remove the half that was attached to the hoses, and found the check valve that appears to be the exactly the same (FSP 89888). I guess I need to remove the tub now to get to the other half. Is there anything I need to know to accomplish this?
 
the scrubber cap (the part with the letter K) of the agitator screws off. Grab a hold of the trunk of the agitator and than unscrew the scrubber cap. The remainder of the agitator lifts off.
 
Ok I see a spanner tool does exist. I was able to fit a pipe wrench smoothly without hitting the tub, but ring nut is completely frozen. Soaking in PB blaster. I gotta remember the machine is 55 years old!
 
Counterclockwise!

Whirlpool spanner nuts open counterclockwise. Maytag spanner nuts & mounting stems open clockwise (left hand thread).

While using a pipe wrench can work, it is infinitely easier with the spanner wrench. Just a heads up as you proceed sometimes these nuts will loosen only to bind up again on another area of the threads. If that happens the spin tube will turn with the nut. At that point you will have to cut it off; luckily these are in plentiful supply, as well as the spin tube drive block it screws onto.

Good luck & keep us posted!
 
Thanks. I was wondering if that might be the case. Videos I found show it coming off counter, but I don't think any of the machines were this old. If it is reverse threaded, it's a lot tighter now! Haha
 
Yeah I figured that a tool is necessary, so I bought one on ebay. I'm assuming even after the nut is off, the tub isn't gonna want to just slide right out. Found a good video showing how to remove a stuck tub with the spanner tool and slide clamps.
 
take the nut off...stand inside the machine, pretend your on a see-saw, and shift your weight from one leg to the other with force...one or two tries should break it free....then lift out....
 
Spanner tool arrived today and got the lock nut off. Tried see-sawing basket out, but no luck. Also sprayed generous amounts of penetrating oil and tapped the sleeve of the basket with a rubber mallet. Any other tricks I can try?
 
Ya I actually did try standing on machine and pulling up side to side. I weigh about 180 lb. Gonna give it a few days of soaking in oil and try again.
 
Got ya! What can I say, I'm a visual learner. Done this a couple times now for several minutes. Excited it would do the trick, but basket is still stuck. Just to be sure, might there be some sort of retaining clip I'm not seeing?
 
on to the dispenser

Got the new side check valve installed. Discovered the bleach/softener dispenser has one bad solenoid. The bezel is missing so I don't know what side is which. The other dispenser side rod, stopper, and solenoid appear okay. Looked for a replacement solenoid, even found a bunch of WP part numbers that cross reference, but came up empty locating one. For now I plan to plumb the dispenser to the side check valve the way it was originally. Question: should I disconnect wires to the bad solenoid or does it not matter? Also, do these dispense (bleach and or softener) at different times during the wash cycle?

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Looks

very similar to my 1960 Whirlpool, if you find a source for any parts, please let us know.
The Bleach should dispense at 4 minutes left in the wash agitation of most (maybe all) cycles. The softener should release exactly when the final deep rinse water starts entering the tub, as the tub slows down from spinning when the extraction is done.

Whether or not you get both sides working, for any load where you won't bleach or won't soften, pour in 3/4 cup of warm water. It helps keep the rubber stopper in good shape, helps clean out a less-than=perfect dispenser design.

Very nice washer, congrats!
 
Tub repair

Discovered a small rust hole in the tub where the leak was originating. Decided to attempt a repair since overall the tub was in really good shape for a 55 year old machine. Cleaned and sanded tub interior. Applied a rust inhibitor first. After that was dry, used a marine grade two-part epoxy with small pieces of fiberglass imbedded on both sides of the tub hole. Feeling good that the repair will stop the leaking. Waiting on a center post gasket and rubber washers for mounting holes before reinstalling tub.

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