1970's Siemens mangle.....

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Well......

Boy, it sure was heavy! Works like a charm. You step on the pedal and the heat plate moves forward, presses on the roll, which starts to turn. If you want to stop the rotation, but keep the plate against the roll, you step down harder on the pedal.

Really very clever engineering! I was thinking of one day getting a Miele ironer...but I'm not to sure how much "better" it could be!

I will, however, have to make a new roll cover. I will use the old one as a pattern, and I'm guessing, use unbleached cotton as the fabric.

I also need to refresh the teak wood. It looks very dried out. Any advice?

Guy
 
Ironer Roll Cover

You can find them on German and other eBay sites in the EU. For sellers that ship internationally set search preferences to "Worldwide" and use keywords "Ironer Cover" or use Siemans "Bugeltuch" other words found on your the cover of the owner's manual.

DO NOT LAUNDER THE UNDER PADDING! It will shrink never return to normal size nor loft. You can however removed and shake/air or run it through an tumble dryer set to "no heat" on air fluff cycle.
 
As for the teak finish, I would apply a product called "Teak Oil". It's available at most hardware stores. You apply it very liberally then let it sit for about 15 minutes and then wipe off the excess with a dry lint free cloth. Microfiber cloths are excellent for thie.
You don't want the teak wood to dry out, then it will crack or craze on you. Here is a link about how to do this.

http://housekeeping.about.com/od/ideasbysurface/ht/teakwood.htm
 
Well

I have found a couple of Euro appliance parts stores that I can have one shipped from.

I am curious about one thing, though. There is a bar that stretchs across the front of the heat plate. It can be moved closer the the operator or further away.

Is this a pressure regulator or speed regulator?

Any idea? The user book I have really only explains how to open and close the machine.

Guy
 
Search Also Under "Bosch"

As Bosch/Siemens have the same ironer, roll lenghts and all.

Just be sure to measure or use whatever size is indicated in the owners manual. Normally ironers only came in set roller lengths, something like 21", 25", 35" etc.

If you are going to run up your own any good heavy cotton muslin will do. Just make sure to leave about 1"-2" extra on each side to accomodate the drawstring casing and to be able to turn under and thus cover the entire waltz.

Personally having "been there and done that" with homemade ironer covers the better quality professional covers are streets ahead. Most are made of a stronger material than we can obtain for domestic sewing and help "grip" cloth as it's passed into the ironer. They also resist scorch and soils better than plain untreated muslin.
 
AskoMiele

If you are having problems using your ironer please let one know. What are you doing and how are the results not good?

It is very important with these domestic ironers that items have just the right amount of moisture. Depending upon the textile fiber (linen, cotton, wool, etc..) this should range from very damp to almost dry. However even with linen which should normally be ironed quite damp things should be drier than what one is used to via hand ironing for mangling.

Unlike commercial ironers that often have two or more rolls to iron cloth thus more chances to insure it's dry and done properly, domestic versions only have the one waltz. If the material is too wet it will emerge not only badly ironed but will wrinkle and crease as multiple layers fall on top of each other. This means the entire thing must be put back into the ironer again (and again) until it's dry and properly ironed.

Also since contact with the cool and damp cloth cools the ironer it will have to generate more heat (thermostat comes on) in attempts to maintain proper temperature. This results in increased energy use. Happily 220v ironers have a greater heating capacity than 120v versions, usually >2.5kW versus 1.5kW. But still it does not do to have things too wet.

Finally it is very important to start as one means to finish. Items going through the ironer must be fed smooth as possible. That is what the forming boards are for. Any crease or wrinkle fed into the machine will emerge on the other side fully pressed into the cloth. Such "cat whiskers" and other mistakes often cannot be removed without rewashing the item totally.
 

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