1975 A806 Won't Agitate

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I am worried about the agitator shaft. The upper part of the shaft where it rests on the bearing on the top half of the transmission seems to be impregnated with oil, similar to the tub bearing. I'm not 100% sure either way.
 
MT AGITATOR SHAFT

The agitator shaft is just plated steel, it is not like the tub bearings that are bronze and oil impregnated. If the shaft is badly worn [ and it probably is ] you really need a new one and new bearings in the transmission cover. When this would happen to MT washers we never fixed this part as MT sold the complete trans cover with the shaft and bearings installed, so we would just install a new cover, oil and gasket and you were good to go for another 20 years. Nowadays when I run into this problem we just use a cover assembly that is in good condition or even a complete used transmission . Other than finding good used parts you will have to have the shaft turned down and have over sized bearings made and installed. The bad thing is the shaft has lost its corrosion resistant plating so if any moisture ever gets in it wouldn't last long.

 

If I were rebuilding this machine for everyday use I would update it to the Orbital Transmission and use the newer Load Sensor agitator, these parts are still avilalible. This change was the best thing MT ever did to the helical drive washers, it allows you to wash larger loads and greatly reduces the clothing ware and possible damage that the original Powerfin agitator can cause if the machine is not used very carefully.
 
LOAD SENSOR AGITATOR

This is MTs version of the popular auger style agitator that WP invented and KM started using on thier machines in the late 1970s. This coupled with the smaller fins and faster shorter stroke made for a much more satisfactory agitation and turnover in the tall narrow tub that your MT has.
 
I recieved most of the parts I was waiting on today.

Trying to the O-Ring into the bottom half of the transmission case. I've seen the manual on thread number 22830 and I just cant seem to get it fully seated.

Any tips?
 
Got it all back together and it is quieter than it ever was!

There is a small water leak from the upper tub seal that I need to deal with by readjusting the gasket...

After that she should be all good to go!
 
Glad it is working well! I would throw in with Combo52. A new transmission and agitator would go right in. I attended a Maytag service seminar in the 90s, and they demonstrated how to put one in an older machine. I know that it is not origional, but it sure saves a lot of work. However, there is a lot to be said about keeping a machine origional. Did you take any pictures during the repairs? What about the finished machine?
 
The cost for the rebuild wasn't that much, and was actually cheaper than a new transmission all together. The washer has been my familys DD since the day we bought it and I've never had a complaint about its operation untill it started to rock around and not agitate.

I have some before and after pictures but nothing during the repair. The transmission rebuild was so straight forward I felt that it was rather pointless to document it.

I am still having water leaks and I cannot identify the source. I resat the top tub seal but no dice.

The water usually starts leaking near the end of the agitation cyles and dribbles off of the transmission onto the base plate.

I am letting the machine dry out before I try and diagnose the leak any further.

Any suggestions or ideas?
 
Leak

If water is coming out of the slots in the tub bearing, suspect a boot seal leak. If water is coming out underneath the bearing sleeve and straight down on the transmission cover, suspect a center shaft seal leak or triple lip seal leak on top of the stem mount. They're not as good as the old kind. I've heard that if the agitator shaft is very worn or not smooth where the lip seal rides on the agitator shaft that a leak can happen there. Look a MaytagA710's first picture. See where the groove is in the agitator shaft where the shaft seal used to ride?
 
It is leaking from underneath the bearing sleeve.

In thread #25520 the poster describes using part 0A4298 (the org. shaft seal) to supplement the triple lipped stem for a good seal.

I don't see how to use this part in conjunction with the new seal. Would I remove part of the seal that came with the new mounting stem?
 
A closer look at the baseplate and a view of the transmission.

I media blasted the tub support arms and motor mounting plates because they were very well rusted and looked very tired.

I used Rustoleum grey on the damper, arms, and base plate. The motor mounting plates got a metallic silver (Aluminum) color along with the transmission case.

hoys++12-22-2011-10-37-27.jpg
 
A closer look of the rebuilt and painted transmission.

It cleaned up very nicely! I also bought a new support spring to replace one that was very rusted (You can see it in the foreground of this picture)

hoys++12-22-2011-10-39-9.jpg
 
Last picture for the moment, the matching washer and dryer that has been used daily for the past 36 years! (They are older than I am!)

We have had them for so long we even painted the laundry room in a matching color :)

hoys++12-22-2011-10-41-32.jpg
 
No, you don't remove part of the stem mount seal. You put the old style agitator shaft seal on the shaft(while the stop ring is off)and put the new stem mount over it. Then tighten.

Did you make sure the a. shaft was polished with emery cloth first, then greased?

Did you check my post to MaytagA710 a few days ago?
 
I don't know how to find your post to MaytagA710...

So would ordering the older style shaft seal and installing it fix my problem?
 
Hey HOYS here is the thread/advice he told me about earlier, very helpful!

 
Very helpful link!

My agitator shaft was badly worn like that too. I'll be buying the old style seal and some O-Rings to do this fix!

Thank you very much!
 
I like that washer dryer set it looks like mine out here in the top floor laundry room

Is that a HOH dryer

The washer that I have up here in the top floor laundry room the agitator shaft froze on it and I had to send it to the washer hospital to get it fixed
 

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