1986 Kenmore 60 Series DD--Refurb Project
- Thread starter ddfan92
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Great Job
Thanks for sharing with us.
Thanks for sharing with us.
Direct drive, washer, rebuild project
Nice job Steven, these machines are relatively easy to rebuild. If you go through them and correct the problem as you did.
The 24 inch Kenmore should last many more years, we have an original 1981 24 inch whirlpool direct drive in our museum that we completely rebuilt about 20 years ago.
It recently experienced a timer failure and luckily we found one on eBay it’s a difficult timer to find.
Only one complaint Steven please straighten the hinges on the 24 inch Kenmore. I can’t stand to see the lid hitting the enamel top like that when it’s in the open position , when the lid is open, it should stand nearly vertical with just a slight lean to the left.
John and
Nice job Steven, these machines are relatively easy to rebuild. If you go through them and correct the problem as you did.
The 24 inch Kenmore should last many more years, we have an original 1981 24 inch whirlpool direct drive in our museum that we completely rebuilt about 20 years ago.
It recently experienced a timer failure and luckily we found one on eBay it’s a difficult timer to find.
Only one complaint Steven please straighten the hinges on the 24 inch Kenmore. I can’t stand to see the lid hitting the enamel top like that when it’s in the open position , when the lid is open, it should stand nearly vertical with just a slight lean to the left.
John and
Need help:
Well upon testing the machine after sitting a month in my cold shop, I found it started leaking from the bottom of the tub by the back suspension support. There isn't any other place I can store it that's warm or insulated at the moment, so I just need to figure out what to do to fix it so I can hopefully sell it ASAP. I determined that it wasn't the main gasket seal at the bottom of the tub.
I pulled the agitator and inner tub out and filled it with water. Filled it just above the level of the main gasket and then let it sit a moment. Nothing. Then filled it past the level of the middle center-post seal and let it sit a moment. Started leaking again. Clearly points to the middle seal which encompasses the brake shaft. I went ahead and bought the main gasket and the middle seal and went ahead and installed the new tub gasket. But upon removing the old center-post seal, the part I bought doesn't look like it'll work. I went on searspartsdirect.com and put in the order for the part which the diagram showed I needed. I must have missed something though because it doesn't look like the original seal for one, and there are more seals/bearings underneath the one that sits on top, which look on mine as though they'll need replaced as a whole.
Well upon testing the machine after sitting a month in my cold shop, I found it started leaking from the bottom of the tub by the back suspension support. There isn't any other place I can store it that's warm or insulated at the moment, so I just need to figure out what to do to fix it so I can hopefully sell it ASAP. I determined that it wasn't the main gasket seal at the bottom of the tub.
I pulled the agitator and inner tub out and filled it with water. Filled it just above the level of the main gasket and then let it sit a moment. Nothing. Then filled it past the level of the middle center-post seal and let it sit a moment. Started leaking again. Clearly points to the middle seal which encompasses the brake shaft. I went ahead and bought the main gasket and the middle seal and went ahead and installed the new tub gasket. But upon removing the old center-post seal, the part I bought doesn't look like it'll work. I went on searspartsdirect.com and put in the order for the part which the diagram showed I needed. I must have missed something though because it doesn't look like the original seal for one, and there are more seals/bearings underneath the one that sits on top, which look on mine as though they'll need replaced as a whole.
repairguy
Well-known member
You have in your hand a new oil seal. One goes under the top bearing and two under the bottom bearing originally. This machine had 2 top water seals which you may still be able to get but whirlpool went to a single top triple lip seal for the top water seal above the bearing. I’m away from the part number at the moment but hopefully someone will come along in the meantime with the updated number.
jr2712
Well-known member
Seals interchangeability
Sorry for asking in this thread but I would like to know if the water seals and oil seals of the DDs work on the BDs and vice versa
Sorry for asking in this thread but I would like to know if the water seals and oil seals of the DDs work on the BDs and vice versa
Interestingly enough, the center post seals on both the belt drive and direct drive are completely interchangeable, even the tub seal is the same. Whirlpool shortened the center post seal in 1978, unfortunately lots of the later belt drives (even some direct drives) had issues where the center post seals would fail, water could possibly make it’s way to the transmission and to quote Gordon: “Would spill it’s guts”. All Whirlpool machines built before 1978 (1977 and older) have the full height center post, usually the bearings and seals would last a good while before needing replacement.
jr2712
Well-known member
Thank you Sean!
Reply #44
Gordon is still around, he’s just been busy with life. He commented on a thread regarding the timer on my Whirlpool, but haven’t seen him post for a good while. Tyler in NC talks to Gordon every now and again, even he was storing some machines of his at this house back in 2019 but even then, it’s been awhile since I’ve talked to Tyler on the phone since he’s been busy as well. Been almost a solid year since I’ve talked to anyone really.
Gordon is still around, he’s just been busy with life. He commented on a thread regarding the timer on my Whirlpool, but haven’t seen him post for a good while. Tyler in NC talks to Gordon every now and again, even he was storing some machines of his at this house back in 2019 but even then, it’s been awhile since I’ve talked to Tyler on the phone since he’s been busy as well. Been almost a solid year since I’ve talked to anyone really.
Reply #46
Good to know he's still kicking 'round. He and I chatted over email some time ago about direct drive timers and the various subtle differences between models that are similar to each other. He's very informed about Kenmores in general, especially the older belt drive machines.
Good to know he's still kicking 'round. He and I chatted over email some time ago about direct drive timers and the various subtle differences between models that are similar to each other. He's very informed about Kenmores in general, especially the older belt drive machines.
Reply #47
I believe Gordon even worked for Sears in the 80’s and early 90’s from a few threads in the archives.
Btw, is your email working? I sent you a email as a reply, but I must have not gone through or something. Might be something on my end since I’ve had that happen before where I’ll have to send a email a few times to get through. Might be something with the server or the internet in some regions.
I believe Gordon even worked for Sears in the 80’s and early 90’s from a few threads in the archives.
Btw, is your email working? I sent you a email as a reply, but I must have not gone through or something. Might be something on my end since I’ve had that happen before where I’ll have to send a email a few times to get through. Might be something with the server or the internet in some regions.
repairguy
Well-known member
Yes that is the kit for a direct drive. For some reason they are expensive.
Not sure why they are expensive, probably because a bearing replacement on a direct drive was few and far between hence why the bearing kit was expensive. Wonder if direct drive bearings will fit on a direct drive since the spin tube is the same size.
Direct drive washer, center post bearings
Are the same size as belt drive washer, bearings and seals, I’ve never seen bad bearings in a direct drive washer. I have replaced the upper seal on occasion when doing a complete rebuild and lubricated the bearings.
I think this is what Sean was trying to say that they’re the same on both style whirlpool top load washers.
John
Are the same size as belt drive washer, bearings and seals, I’ve never seen bad bearings in a direct drive washer. I have replaced the upper seal on occasion when doing a complete rebuild and lubricated the bearings.
I think this is what Sean was trying to say that they’re the same on both style whirlpool top load washers.
John
Replacing bearings and seals
Hi Steven, you just use turban oil to lubricate the inside of the center post tube and the outside of the bearings when you install the bearings.
I would do some additional removal of rust inside the tube at the top of the center post, it Has to be completely smooth for the bearings to go in easily, and also keeps it from damaging the seals as they pushed in place.
John
Hi Steven, you just use turban oil to lubricate the inside of the center post tube and the outside of the bearings when you install the bearings.
I would do some additional removal of rust inside the tube at the top of the center post, it Has to be completely smooth for the bearings to go in easily, and also keeps it from damaging the seals as they pushed in place.
John
Reply #58
You’re very welcome. Turbine oil/Zoom Spout is important when dealing with sleeve bearings on vintage washers and dryers, especially when dealing with the Maytag HOH dryers. A detergent oil has gumming agents which can cause the wicking material to be clogged with dirt and varnish which is bad news since it’ll mean the bearing won’t get proper lubrication. That’s what I use whenever I oil the main drum bearing on my HOH’s, or when I happen to do the annual cleaning a lubrication of the vintage GE Vortalex fan I have (will need to make a video of it at some point) or the vintage Windsor box fan I picked up a few weeks ago.
You’re very welcome. Turbine oil/Zoom Spout is important when dealing with sleeve bearings on vintage washers and dryers, especially when dealing with the Maytag HOH dryers. A detergent oil has gumming agents which can cause the wicking material to be clogged with dirt and varnish which is bad news since it’ll mean the bearing won’t get proper lubrication. That’s what I use whenever I oil the main drum bearing on my HOH’s, or when I happen to do the annual cleaning a lubrication of the vintage GE Vortalex fan I have (will need to make a video of it at some point) or the vintage Windsor box fan I picked up a few weeks ago.
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