240 Plug Doesn't Match Outlet

[toggleswitch2]

Again true 220v machines in their homeland get 220v from a hot and a neutral.

When used in this country, by necessity, they are connected to two hots. They have NO NEED for a neutral.

Grounding/earthing is nearly always a good thing except in the case of a traditional toaster with two open slots and exposed heating elements on top. You know some fool will take a knife and short to the grounded applance frame. But I digress. {That is not my opinion, I read it somewhere offical-like}.

Let us not forget that a netural carries ccurrent just like a hot, but the potential (voltage) to earth is (hopefully and theoreticaly and designed to be) zero rather than 110v to 240v).

In our country the neutral and ground are conencted to each-other in various places. BOth functions quite nicely as the other.

Go back and look at my 220v Leviton brand outlet. The colors of the wires are red and black (hots) and green, ground.

 

[sudsmaster]

Two hots and a neutral are needed if there are any 110 volt components on the machine.

I'm not convinced that all European washers rewired for US voltages don't have any 110volt internals. And, if they don't, then why do they come with four wires: two hots, a neutral, and a ground?

 

[tuxedopoodle]

Meanwhile...

Okay. I took a photo of the receptacle and took it to the store where all the electricians buy their supplies. I also cut off the three prong plug. The store took one look at the photo and sold me a Cooper plug with only THREE prongs, one of which is the L-shape, compatible with the outlet. It's called a Universal Angle Plug and has a number 30A-125/250V with L blade.

So, the wiring attached to the Asko has three colors: green, black and white. Having researched this, I am understanding that the green is the ground and both the black and white are hot. (The machine plate is marked to show it's a 240.)

Now, the plug has the L-shape prong marked with a "W". The instructions are for US colors and show the neutral to be the white wire and to be attached to the L-shape prong. They show Black and Red to be attached to the others.

This appears to leave me with the wrong plug. There appears to be no place for the Green ground.

Does it appear they sold me the wrong plug? What seems to be missing is a round prong in the middle. Please realize that I know absolutely nothing and don't even know if the round hole in my receptacle is supposed to receive a round prong. If so, then they evidently sold me the wrong plug.

Togglesmith--can you believe this is still unresolved!! I'm leaving the house today and the supply house is closed today anyway. But I'll need to follow up shortly, so any further advice is most helpful. (Togglesmith's original advice would work if the plug they sold me had four prongs, but it doesn't.)

Thank you all again!

Helen

 

[toggleswitch2]

I'd say safest is to post pics of the:

1- Power supply outlet (female) on garage wall.
2- Original plug (male)on washer.
3- New plug (male) that you were sold.

Helen, I think you are on the right track. If the dryer outlet that is your power source (outlet;female) has 4 ports/holes-- obviously you will meed a plug (male) of the same configuration, not the three conductor/prong one you were sold.

Odd (to me) that a 220v machine has a power(flex) cord with black and white conductors.

Good luck Helen. Got your e-mail. Will respond.

Again, would you be so kind as to post pics of your three plugs/outlets. Just click on "browse" and find them in your computer. This site sizes them automatically even if they appear too big after previeiwng.

 

[tuxedopoodle]

Photos

Hi Steve. I will try to upload three photos--two of the existing receptacle and one of the plug that was on the Asko (that I have now cut off which revealed the black, white and green wires).

I didn't make a photo of the plug they sold me, but it's as I described above.

Thank you again so much. Almost there?!

 

[tuxedopoodle]

Photo 2

receptacle (I hope this is working)

 

[tuxedopoodle]

Photo 3

just in case the receptable wasn't clear (the outlet is on a proper wall, which got sheetrocked off from the closet, so we had to cut through for access--it may not be as funky as it looks--it is affixed to the wall)

 

[toggleswitch2]

Did you say the male plug you were sold fits the outlet /fem

The black and brass male shown is 220v. The horizonetal blade is on the right as we are plugging it in.

The brown dryer outlet shown appears to be one that takes three prongs- the center hole is actually to accomodate a screw that holds the cover over the base of the outlet.

So green to ground ("L" shape) and black and white to the other two. "L" Will be marked "ground" or "neutral" in outlet. Other two should be marked L1 & L2 (line 1....)

 

[tuxedopoodle]

While I didn't yet plug the new male plug into the old female receptacle because of the awkward location but it definitely lines up (I was afraid I might drop the plug into the sheetrocked in space and never be able to retrieve it, without it being attached to a cord, but didn't get to tying it to a string). There are no markings on the prongs, except for the L-shaped one, which I think was a "W" (I don't have it with me). The instructions clearly showed that a white neutral wire in the usual black-red-white configuration would be attached to that L-shaped prong.

There was no indication that it was okay/safe to put a green ground there, so I hesitated. But I think you are telling me to put the green ground there, attach the other two hot wires to the two other prongs--and then, hopefully, get a life!! (do some wash, too).

If I don't hear back, I'll assume we've got it. I really appreciate your help and Togglesmith gets the award for most persistence, patience and Good Samaritanism!

Helen

 

[toggleswitch2]

~But I think you are telling me to put the green ground there
(Yes to the "L" shaped prong)

~attach the other two hot wires to the two other prongs.

BINGO!

as we are all reassured it is definitely a 220v machine!

 

[retro-man]

Hey tux and tog

Not to throw water on the fire but would not have it been easier to replace the receptacle than the plug? I have a 220V built in a/c unit that has the same configuration as the plug that was cut off. Those outlets are readily available. I just had this installed 2 years ago.
Jon

 

[toggleswitch2]

Six of one and half-a-dozen of the other.
Depends also on skill level of the person doing the work.

Putting a 20a outlet on a line fused with circuit-breakers designed for 30a is not allowed...requires re-protecting the line with 20a breakers.

In this way, (changing the plug), the machine can work in any location that has a standard North American dryer outlet. Also probably not a bad thing to have a washing machine with a plug that fits outlets most often found in...drum rool please... a laundry room.

Likewise, the integrity of the home's electrical system is not compromised by someone who is not fully skilled or knowledgable in this area.

Besides. Much less expesnive than hiring-in some help.

 

[tuxedopoodle]

Hi, Togglesmith/Steve. I've gotten as far as stripping the wires and will screw them into the new plug tomorrow and give it a try (been sidetracked with plumbing repair projects, fixing mistakes made by a tilesetter, a carpenter, etc!) Your approach is definitely less expensive than bringing in an electrician in a somewhat rural area where help is, surprisingly, expensive. And since something breaks every week, I'm teaching myself a lot. Thank you for your help! I'll give an update tomorrow, but the American plug approach is working so far!

 

[frapdoodle]

Well You See With Most Imported Machines You Need A Power Converter. The U.S. Uses A Different Electric System Them Other Countries