Yesterday the Toyota-san would not start even though the lights came on and chimes went off. Turned key, nothing just a dull click. Ugh either solenoid or start pooched.
I used the USA made Rizk charger, put on 20 amp charge and it pulled about 8-10 amps. Let it sit that way for a bit, went to start, nada.
Turned it to the 550 AMP boost, turned the ignition and fired right up. Looked at my receipt, 6 years 4 months of use. Got to work and at lunch, went to Advance and had a new battery installed. The existing one flunked the discharge test, only recovered to 11.2 volts. Alt is fine so far as I can tell because the warning light it not on and if the alt was pooched, car would not run at all because of electric fuel pump. Running voltage was 14.2.
In the end, the new Johnson Controls sourced AutoKraft battery is carrying the freight and Toyota-san starts better now. Can't complain on the old battery, it gave me 6 years of use.
New one is flat 3 year non prorated warranty. After that, if the battery pukes, you buy a new one. Not sure if it is union made or not.
I used the USA made Rizk charger, put on 20 amp charge and it pulled about 8-10 amps. Let it sit that way for a bit, went to start, nada.
Turned it to the 550 AMP boost, turned the ignition and fired right up. Looked at my receipt, 6 years 4 months of use. Got to work and at lunch, went to Advance and had a new battery installed. The existing one flunked the discharge test, only recovered to 11.2 volts. Alt is fine so far as I can tell because the warning light it not on and if the alt was pooched, car would not run at all because of electric fuel pump. Running voltage was 14.2.
In the end, the new Johnson Controls sourced AutoKraft battery is carrying the freight and Toyota-san starts better now. Can't complain on the old battery, it gave me 6 years of use.
New one is flat 3 year non prorated warranty. After that, if the battery pukes, you buy a new one. Not sure if it is union made or not.
