47 Bendix Washer

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bendixman

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I'm wondering if someone can give me some direction on my 47 Bendix washer. My water solinoid has gone to a better place and woes not work anymore. I have the original valve from the Dole Valve company. Is there another universal water valve that I can use to replace it or is there a place that I can send it to to be repaired. I do realize that this machine is 58 years old but other than the water valve it works great and has given me hours of pleasure watching it do a good job. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
 
I installed a new water valve on my '47, and changed the connectors. The problem is that only the "HOT" side is working on wash, and the machine won't fill on the Soak or Rinse cycles. The valve is new, so there has to be a break in the wiring somewhere (the spin solenoid won't energize either and worked fine before). I've been messing around with my other machines, and I don't have a place to bolt the Bendix down so it's not high on my priority list. But when I'm all done with the machines and shed (if I ever do get done...OY) I'll re-wire the whole thing and see what happens.

--Austin
 
47 Bendix

Austin,
Thanks for the reply. What kind of water valve did you replace it with, it might be worth a try. So far everything works so just putting in a new water valve shouldn't create any problem (I hope).

Bruce
 
Bruce you can replace the water valve with any standard washing machine water valve. You will have to convert the electrical wire leads in your Bendix from the old style bullet connectors to more modern quick disconnect flat blades, but that is easy.

The original Bendix design has a diverter on the water valve to shoot a small stream of the incoming wash/rinse water down into the water-level float chamber. You won’t be able to use this with a new water valve, so just be sure to clean the chamber ever few years. With modern detergents it shouldn't get very gummed up anyway, that was designed before detergents were invented and soap was used.
 
47 Bendix Washer

Robert,
Thank you for the help. I was going to ask about the diverter connector which fills the float tube, but I guess that I won't be needing this. As for converting the bullet connectors to the flat kind this is no problem as I have rewired the machine using the flat connectors. Again thanks!
 
47 Bendix

I will take some pics this weekend and upload them to the site. Basically what it is,the water valve has an offshoot where a copper tube is screwed into it. This offshoot delivers water to a tube on the back of the machine that fills with water as the tub fills too, and it activates an electric float switch which has a rod attached to the switch at the top of the tube which when it gets to a certain height it shuts the water off. The tube also feeds water into it from the wash tub. The best thing I can compare it to is the float in the toilet tank that as the water rises it shuts off when it reaches its level. I don't know the reason that Bendix did it this way but remember my machine is 58 years old, so for that time I guess it was a pretty modern feature..
 
47 Bendix

Robert,
I went to my local appliance repair store today to pick up a a standard washing machine valve to replace my old one. The guy behind the counter said that the new valves won't work it will only make the machine flood. Needless to say I dind't buy it as I don't want a flood. Any suggestions as to what brand of valve I can buy. The guy showed me a GE water valve with 4 flat prongs but said it couldn't be converted to the Bendix 3 wire switch. I did contact a place in Pennsylvania called AP Wagner parts and they said that they don't stock parts this old. Really want's wrong with this part is the electric solinoid on top is totally shot. What this really needs is a new electric solinoid. Any suggestions on this??? Any help would be Much appreciated.
Bruce

Long Island where I live doesn't have any place old enough to remember a Bendix washer.
 
Unless your repairman is over 60 years old, chances are he isn't familiar with a Bendix machine. His assumption about the new valve flooding the machine isn't true. Even though only the "Hot" solenoid works on my machine, the float switch still shuts off the water when the proper level is reached.

Converting the 3-wire to 4-wire does pose a problem. Even though the wires separate when you remove the bullet connector, it is unknown by me where the 3rd & 4th wires are supposed to go on the new valve. I'll find out sooner or later when I resume work on mine...
 
Hi Bruce, what do you mean by "Bendix 3 wire switch"? There are four wires that go onto the Bendix, two to the hot solenoid and two to the warm solenoid. A modern valve will most certainly work with the Bendix I used one in my 1947 Bendix. If it fills too fast and backs up into the water flume you could simply slow the water flow down. Be careful of advice you get from appliance parts stores they are trained from the beginning that "old" is bad.

The only difference with using a modern water valve will be the "warm" setting will provide cold water. You could replace the solenoid on the original water valve, but you will have to find one first and that could take a while. They haven't made those large style water valve solenoids since the mid 50's.
 
47 Bendix

Robert,
There are 3 slots on the back of the solinoid not 4. I will try and take a picture of it and post it later. Yes I know that the old solinoid is extremely rare, as I visited 4 electrical supply houses today and their eyes bugged out when they saw the solinoid. There are 2 wires on the top and one in the middle on the bottom. What brand of new water valve do you reccommend.
Bruce
 
47 Bendix

Robert,
Here are a few pictures of the water valve and solinoid of my Bendix. As you can see there are 3 wires on the back of the solinoid that need to ne converted in some way that I don't know how to do. I have been looking for a new solinoid but as you know it like finding the "Needle in the Haystack". Any help would be greatly apprediated.
Bruce

7-23-2005-10-59-28--bendixman.jpg
 
47 Bendix

Here is another picture, i'm not sure how to post all of them at once, so i'm sending a few in different postings.

7-23-2005-11-01-36--bendixman.jpg
 
Bruce what are the colors of the three water solenoid wires, I see a green wire, I see a tan wire but your picture doesn't show what the third wire color is. If I know the color of that I can figure out how to convert it to a four wire. It should be easy. Can you post a picture of just like you did in your first picture of the solenoid package but with all three wires properly installed?
 
47 Bendix

Robert, it's another green & yellow wire and it runs from the tube float switch then it y's off with a connector and then it goes to the switch that is on top of the transmission. Here are 2 pictures that I took. Let me know if you need more.

7-23-2005-19-04-6--bendixman.jpg
 
47 Bendix

Robert, sorry about the last picture not coming out clear the lighting is bad this is the green wire from the bottom of the solinoid that goes to the flow tube switch.
 
OK that's better, now I know. The plane Green wire is for the warm solenoid and the yellow wire is for the hot solenoid. The Green Wire with the Yellow Tracer (stripes) is the neutral return wire. Here is how to wire in the new valve...

The Green wire goes onto the one of the prongs of the cold water solenoid of the new valve.

The Yellow wire goes onto the one of the prongs of the hot water solenoid of the new valve.

You have to cut the Green/Yellow striped wire and create a Y connection and connect one G/Y wire to the hot solenoid and one G/Y wire to the cold solenoid.

Your biggest challenge in this whole thing is going to be mouting the new valve in the spot where the old valve went. I seem to remember this being a bit of a pain when I did it my '47 Bendix, but it can be done.
 
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