'75 DE806 not shutting off after cool down

[marks]

Hi Everyone,
Does anyone have experience with an DE806 not turning off after cool down? The heat shuts off at the DING!, but then it will just run indefinitely on air.
Thanks!
-Mark

 

[repairguy]

Sounds like a faulty cool down thermostat.

 

[swestoyz]

Potential sign that the push button switch is starting to go bad. Pull the top control panel cover and inspect for the linkage between the solenoid and the push button switch. The linkage looks like a paper clip bent to shape.

If the linkage is in place and the solenoid is activating and sliding the switch in attempts to shut the dryer off, then the overall switch assembly is starting to go bad. PN 3-2528/302528.

Ben

 

[marks]

Someone also mentioned that this could be a grounding issue somewhere. Does that sound like it could also be something?

 

[qsd-dan]

could be a grounding issue somewhere

The bell would never chime if there was a grounding issue.

It's a broken paperclip linkage, broken tab on the switch where the linkage connects, bad switch, or bad cool down thermostat.

 

[marks]

I ran it today and all of the clips are there but the solenoid was not activating. Makes me think it’s not getting the signal from the sensor. Which one is the cool down sensor?

 

[repairguy]

Once the solenoid resets the timer selector switch and the bell chimes then the cool down thermostat is what shuts the dryer off. If the solenoid is not activating then there is probably an issue with the moisture sensor circuit, for example the drum baffle sensors, wiring from the baffles to the carbon brush, the carbon brush that rides on the slip ring, the electronic control.

 

[appnut]

Have you run just the air fluff cycle to see if it shuts off automatically within 15 minutes?

 

[swestoyz]

Control Switch 302528

I've sent out about a half dozen control switches to fellow members in the last year or so. While there is a potential for the cool down t-stat to have gone bad, the age of the push button switches and cycle count these have gone through in their life time leave the wafer slider to get weak.

All good suggestions stated above, but one thing I'd also try is to shut the dryer off by sliding the slider manually. If it shuts off with confident movement you can rule out the switch. If it requires some finesse the switch itself is the culprit.

How long did it run and ding, previously, when it was trying to shut itself off? A few minutes? A few hours? Did it take opening the door to shut the dryer off?

Ben

 

[marks]

Correction! I ran it again to see and the solenoid is disconnecting, pushing the paper clip out and turning off the heat, then it just keeps running and running. The moisture sensor and carbon rod seem ok. I get continuity from the sensor to the copper ring.
Trying just the air fluff cycle now to see what happens.
Ben I know you rebuilt the timer on my ‘59! Still working perfectly!!

 

[marks]

Ok this is interesting. I ran the air fluff cycle and it Dinged at 15 minutes but then continued to run indefinitely.

 

[marks]

Ben, I had towels in there and it ran out 50 minutes before it dinged and went into indefinite cool down.

 

[appnut]

Ben, I could be wrong, but I vaguely remember reading something in a service manual or user manual that when using the air fluff cycle, there was something that "timed" that function/cycle. I'm wondering if whatever that is that "times" the air fluff, is causing the dryer to not turn off.

 

[qsd-dan]

Check continuity across the cool down thermostat (part# 303394) at room temp (below 120F). There should be no continuity.

 

[swestoyz]

Time to check the cool down t-stat. It may be stuck closed, once they get below 125-130 degrees they should open. With the dryer cold, check for continuity across the t-stat (disconnect the leads first). If it's still closed you'll want to replace it.

Ben

EDIT - Dan beat me to the punch. Nice to see such a collaborate effort!

 

[swestoyz]

Hey Bob, I had to do some digging to find the time values assigned to testing all options on the bar baffle version. Air Fluff has the same time value as Regular. Suspect when using the dryer Air Fluff would take this long for both testing and actual use, whereas Regular uses a different path through the electronic control that varies time depending upon the load (discharging the capacitor due to a wet load).

Ben

 

[appnut]

Thanks Ben!!!

 

[marks]

There is continuity! So this must be the problem. Thanks everyone!

 

[qsd-dan]

If your laundry room has access to an HVAC register and you regularly use A/C during the summertime months, you have the option of using a lower rated cool down thermostat. This will provide a longer cool down phase which results in less wrinkled clothing.

 

[marks]

The part came and I replaced it and it still isn’t shutting off!

 

[lowefficiency]

Could be a bad part - did you repeat the same continuity test?

 

[bradfordwhite]

And why is this not a problem from the timer?

I'm not a Maytag expert and it sounds like the timer gets almost to the end and stops moving. Like a contact for the timer motor lets up too soon.

 

[lowefficiency]

Because the DE806 is an electronic control machine that doesn't actually have a timer or timer motor. Instead it uses the charging and discharging of a capacitor, and some other components as electro-mechanical logic elements/switches, to regulate how long the machine should run and how things shut off in sequence.

 

[swestoyz]

Using the ladder test procedure above from Let’s Talk Service, does it shut off at all? Beginning to suspect the electronic control/capacitor is on the fritz if all connections are good at the control.

 

[bradfordwhite]

So apparently Maytag was the leader with fake knobs/cycle selectors that look like a traditional timer but actually control some type of computer?

 

[DADoES]

 
606 and 806 control doesn't have minute markings, just settings for Regular, Perm Press, Air Fluff, and Damp Dry.  They don't move from the selected function through the cycle to an Off position ... there is no Off position.  There's a Highlander model and of course the 906 that have pushbuttons instead of a rotary knob.

 

[bradfordwhite]

I always thought the 806 had a standard timer and the fancier lighted panel.
The 906 dryer was rapid advance.

They're fun to look at anyway. Fixing them ?

 

[DADoES]

 
They all have the same control module inside the panel.  906 dryer is not rapid-advance, there is no mechanical timer involved.

906 washer has a mechanical rapid-advance timer.

 

[DADoES]

 
606 dryer, 806, and another 806 or 808.

 

[henene4]

So from what I understand the dryer recognised the load is dry, than goes into a temperature controlled cool down which doesn't self terminate even though the temperature sensor has been replaced and is thus probably known good?

If so - even though I know nothing about those dryers - I would dare to guess that there is some sort or relay or otherwise electrically activated switch of some kind that switches the motor to mains?

That could very well be sticky.
With a sticky relay, it might just stay closed even though the coil voltage is removed.