I have a next to top of the line '59 Kenmore Roto-Swirl, and I have been trying to get the inner wash basket out. The first real problem was the (spanner) lock nut. That I had to drill and pull off in pieces. I have a new replacement for it. Now according to the book and everyone I talk to, the inner tub should just lift out. It does not! I am able to push down on the tub and it will travel down an eighth of an inch or so but always returns to the same position. I have used a rubber mallet around the spin shaft to try to knock the thing loose. Somehow it just seems like something is still left to be undone and I cannot figure out what, unless the basket drive block must come out. If so how do you get enough leverage to get it out. It is sunk below the flare of the spin tube and fits down on two tabs from the top. One side is gapped open, but I am not sure what the purpose of that is.I have referred to Robert's '57 Restoration pictures and so far everything looks like it should work. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated!!! -Steve
911 NEED KENMORE EXPERTS!!!!!
- Thread starter gyrafoam
- Start date
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It is simply stuck, a common problem with these machines. Try pushing down on the tub edge then rotate the tub and push down again continuing around until it comes loose. Roberts trick is to stand on the tub rocking back and forth until it comes loose. some propane torch heat around the top of the tub sometimes helps.
Reply to Fixerman
Did that. I bumped the tub down and rotated it as I went for quite a while. What ever is holding it is strong! Thanks! -Steve
Did that. I bumped the tub down and rotated it as I went for quite a while. What ever is holding it is strong! Thanks! -Steve
Those things can be a bee-itch to get loose.
When you press down, you're just compressing against springs in the drive mechanism, that's why it comes back up. Just pressing down isn't sufficient. You have to grab it by the edge and rock it UP and DOWN, HARD. The drive block is split so it can grab more securely onto the neck of the basket. Sometimes if you can get enough upward force on the basket, the drive block will come out with it.
When you press down, you're just compressing against springs in the drive mechanism, that's why it comes back up. Just pressing down isn't sufficient. You have to grab it by the edge and rock it UP and DOWN, HARD. The drive block is split so it can grab more securely onto the neck of the basket. Sometimes if you can get enough upward force on the basket, the drive block will come out with it.
Reply to DADoES
O.K. I'll get more agressive with it---just did not want to do damage! Thanks for the tip. -Steve
O.K. I'll get more agressive with it---just did not want to do damage! Thanks for the tip. -Steve
kenmore1978
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inner basket
It's not actually the drive block that's split, (the drive block drives the agitator) but the spin tube. Get out the WD-40 or whatever your favorite penetrating oil is and squirt it around the ears on the spin tube that grab onto and spin the basket. The problem is getting enough upward force while on the inner basket trying to rock it.
It's not actually the drive block that's split, (the drive block drives the agitator) but the spin tube. Get out the WD-40 or whatever your favorite penetrating oil is and squirt it around the ears on the spin tube that grab onto and spin the basket. The problem is getting enough upward force while on the inner basket trying to rock it.
Steve 1-18 and Rhinnie as well as PeterH,Brent Aucoin and Les are comming over for a visit and mini "wash-in" today. Between all of them we can turn the damn thing upside down and shake that tub out! I'll let you know if we succeed. Thanks for all the advice. --Steve
I believe this is a typical basket drive block for a Whirlpool/Kenmore belt-drive machine. It's upside down in the picture, but it clearly shows a split.
And this is a hexagonal agitator drive block.
And this is a hexagonal agitator drive block.
Question: Does the basket drive block remain in the spin-tube when inner basket is removed or does it remain on the agitator shaft when the inner basket is removed? We STILL could not get the basket out! It feels as though something is blocking it. Could the basket drive block somehow stop us from lifting this thing out. PeterH suggests putting a welders torch just below flare of spin tube. Any ideas? -Steve
Oh, one thing: If the machine does have a hexagonal agitator drive, that might have to be removed before the basket will come off, not sure if the neck of the basket will fit over it. The agitator drive block just presses down onto the splined shaft -- some older machines didn't have a splined shaft, there was a notch instead, IIRC.
No, other than removing the spanner nut, and possibly the agitator drive block, there's nothing else that holds the basket on. It's just stuck. The basket drive block may or may not come off with the basket. It is a separate piece that just presses down onto the spin tube.
Take the torch to it.
No, other than removing the spanner nut, and possibly the agitator drive block, there's nothing else that holds the basket on. It's just stuck. The basket drive block may or may not come off with the basket. It is a separate piece that just presses down onto the spin tube.
Take the torch to it.
removing spin basket
Yes the drive block must be removed first. Refer to the restoration of Robert's 1957 Lady Kenmore on this site,under "restorations". The detailed instructions and photos he has posted make a restoration to these machines easy.
Good luck,
Rick
Yes the drive block must be removed first. Refer to the restoration of Robert's 1957 Lady Kenmore on this site,under "restorations". The detailed instructions and photos he has posted make a restoration to these machines easy.
Good luck,
Rick
The agitator drive block does not have to be removed for the tub to come out. I have removed many tubs without taking the agitator block off. It will clear once the tub gets loose. There may be a problem once the tub is loose and you are lifting it out though. There are 2 grommets at the bottom of the tub tube that tend to get hung up when they get to the spin drive block, but thats putting the cart before the horse. I agree with Dadoes about the torch but if you want to save the original tub, use as little heat as possible so you don't warp it or damage the porcelain but if you do damage it beyond usable condition, it shouldn't be that difficult to find another tub since these are pretty common machines and one from a different year shouldn't matter as long as the configuration is the same.
One other thought. I have sometimes gotten the tub to come loose by taking a pin punch and striking on the top of the spin drive block taking care to NOT strike on the top of the spin tube because if this gets damaged it can be a problem getting the block off of the spin tube once the tub is out.
