A 1958 GE, brought back to life!

[swestoyz]

With the new lining installed, the bearing frame assembly can now be fastened to the housing and the spring clutch and hub are inserted into place, along with the tube over the clutch spring.

The new WH8X184 and WH8X185 seals were driven into their corresponding parts with a coating of Permatex No 2 on the outside of the seals, per GE's recommendations.

With the tube in place the pulley can be placed over the shaft. It is a dance to get the pulley in place and hold the shaft so that it goes to the opening in the pulley.

I cut a new rubber gasket and used a hole punch for the center hole. I don't recall the size, but it looks like it might be about 3/8". With the rubber seal in place the washer can be installed, along with the nut.

With the transmission now fully assembled, it can be flipped back over and set for a few days to ensure that it does not leak and install the drive block.

So, drama number one was solved with complete luck, and the transmission is fully assembled with no leaks! Tune in tomorrow to find out how drama number two was solved!

Until next time!

 

[askolover]

What was the last year of the flo flume at 12 o'clock position?  I remember my grandmother having a white GE when I was very little but I can't remember the control panel.  She replaced it in 1974 when I was 3 with a new green FF.  My mother told me the white one was Grandmother's first automatic washer.  It very well could have been this model.  I think my mother said she was in her teens when Grandmother got her first automatic.  Mother was born in 1945.

 

[panthera]

I am impressed.

I used to wonder why GE transmissions had their own rebuilding centers. Beginning to get a clue. Wow.
What a beautiful set - thank you for sharing all the details!

 

[swestoyz]

What was the last year of the flo flume at 12 o'clock position? - I believe this was carried through at least the V, 1961 models.  In '62 it looks to have moved over to the 1 o'clock position.

 

 

 

[swestoyz]

Drama solution - round two

While the transmission was humming along, the research phase of figuring out how to power the washer began. Last summer I stumbled upon a fairly decent stash of GE parts so I had some spare motor and clutch parts from the defunct dealer. Most of the parts were used but they were helpful in getting things figured out.

One of the motors had the top plate still attached from an early 70's GE, and side by side the motor mounting holes lined up just fine. How does it look installed in the washer with the solenoid attached?

Not too bad! Plenty of clearance between the frame, the belt, and the transmission.

 

[swestoyz]

My preference was to use the original motor, if at all possible. With the 70's plate lined up over the 1958 plate, I could see that there was enough material on the 50's plate to drill holes for the solenoid shifter bracket.

After marking through the 70's plate, holes were drilled and I had a perfect match! Both styles of brackets could now be used.

 

[swestoyz]

While I had plenty of used parts on hand the decision was made to just buy a new two speed clutch assembly. They are plentiful and you get brand new parts with new bearings. PN WH49X265

When the new clutch arrived I had to laugh as it had a bent finger on the newer style carrier plate from shipping damage, similar to one of the used parts I had. Ended up straightening it out.

With the new carrier plate installed on the 1958 motor I got a sense of how high I needed to raise the solenoid shifter bracket. A trip to Menards I grabbed a handful of nylon spacers of various sizes. I don't recall which size did the trick, but this worked out great.

GE has quite the procedure drawn out on how to adjust the shifter. I made sure I had the space between the lock-in shoe and the arm locked in, as well as the height of the arm free spinning over the shifter when the shifter was resting.

 

[swestoyz]

With the revised motor/shifter figured out the test fit was perfect in the machine, but it dawned on me that it would be extremely difficult to adjust the shifter if needed with the outer tub installed. Several tests were done to ensure it was positioned properly before the outer tub was installed.

 

[swestoyz]

Assembly of the clutch itself wasn't a huge deal, but getting the right combination of parts was a PITA. The clutch kit doesn't come with instructions so if you're doing what I'm doing and trying to combine 1958 parts with a 1970's-1990's clutch, it can be tricky.

Long story short, ditch ALL parts from the 50's clutch. The only part you'd be ok reusing would be the secondary/outer drum. Use the parts from the kit, and assemble in this order. Do NOT put any spacers between the leaf spring and the primary drum bottom bearing, OR any spacers above the fiber washer and the outer/secondary drum. I tried all combinations of parts - the original spring load primary clutch shoes, new radial bearings on the primary drum, different coupler plates, etc. This was the best combination.

 

[swestoyz]

Here we can see where the shifter would engage with the clutch, should slow speed be called for. Pretty nifty that all of this actually works!

The 1956 - 1960 single pulley solid tub transmission uses the same belt as the last of the filter flo GE washers. Original PN was WH1X1249, RMA belt number 4L300.

Getting the coupler drive plate on can be tricky. The later 80's GE repair guide suggests using a 6 penny nail to hold the coupler in place on the shaft extension through the roll pin hole. This will allow you to more easily set the roll pin in place and give you one hand to hold the roll pin and punch, and the other to hand holding the hammer. Also, take note of any wear on the inside of the coupler drive plate. If there is a large groove worn inside the shaft on the inside it will need to be replaced. Don't ask me how I know, LOL.

The clutch still had a slight and random rattle in slow speed. I'm attributing this to the bent finger on the carrier plate that I attempted to straightened out. It's ok, it at least sounds like a GE

 

[swestoyz]

An extra step that was very much needed for this washer was to disassemble the cabinet from the bottom frame. So much oil from previous transmission oil leaks was left behind. While it wasn't required I'm not a fan of getting greasy hands when putting something back together.

The outer cabinet also saw a full automotive detail process to bring back some of the original luster of the single stage paint. It's not perfect but this washer is never going to be a contours level restoration (Hi, Bud!).

Leveling legs were cleaned on a wire wheel and chased with a die and new lock nuts and NOS cover caps installed.

 

[swestoyz]

With the transmission rebuilt, motor/clutch buttoned up, it was time to figure out what to do with the fabric softener hoses. Earlier I mentioned all hoses were brittle with few exceptions, and these really odd hoses were well beyond bad. If anyone had tried running this washer before the restoration it would have leaked all over the place.

Pulling out the hoses from the outer tub I was pleasantly surprised to see round holes with a standard size - 1 inch! I came up with the idea to use some rubber grommets to fill the hole and use some 3/8" 90 degree barb fittings from Menards to pass through the grommet hole. It was a perfect fit! If anyone needs these grommets I'd be happy to drop a few in the mail.

Specs - 1" OD, 3/8" ID, 1/16" panel thickness.

 

[swestoyz]

The next hurdle of the fabric softener hose routing were the sharp angles required. The solenoid is located in a super tight spot in the front left hand side of the cabinet. A full loop 180 degree loop is required from the solenoid up to the barb, and another 90 degree bend from the barb to the solenoid. Oh, and that 90 degree bend from the filler flume? YIKES.

So, after some Googling of 3/8 90 degree bend fuel line I found two products that were going to fit the bill.

Oddly enough, a PCV hose for a 1967 to 1969 Big Block Chevy Camaro was the perfect hose replacement for the line from the filler flume to the first barb, and a super crazy custom hose from ebay took care of the 180 and second 90 degree bend. Neither are cheap but it makes this so much easier and reduces the amount of splices and fittings needed to get the job done.

With the line routed for the softener solenoid the outer tub can be installed.

 

[swestoyz]

With the outer tub in place, the pump can be installed. These pumps are super unique - did anyone other than GE/Hotpoint use a pump like this?

NOS housing, valve, pump body, and gasket.

New motor to pump coupler and clamps, both for later perf tub GEs. Blue RTV sealer was used on the pump body and the ring gasket between the body and the outer tub.

 

[swestoyz]

Next up was installing the star boot and the water level switch.

The rust growth was a pain to remove on the boot and eventually I took two files and gently rubbed the majority of the rust off.

It really is a shame these are rare as hens teeth and that the later perforated tub versions cannot be used. I'd love to figure out a way to make more of these.

To ensure that the boot would not leak water between the boot and the outer tub I used the best sealer in the world - The Right Stuff. Messy, expensive, but worth it. First coat went between the tub and the boot before pressing it in and smoothing it out, and a second coat was feathered out further on the tub and up the boot. If this leaks then hell has frozen over.

New clamps for a later GE can be used, but a longer screw will be needed for the bottom/outer clamp. I ended up using the longer spring loaded version of the screw from a used lower clamp.

Upper - WH1X1292
Lower/outer - WH1X1580

 

[swestoyz]

The water level switch is an odd mechanism. I'm sure it worked great when new but they don't age well. The service manual calls for 4 to 6 gallons of water in the outer tub which fills to over the basket hub flange.

After lots of futzing to get it to trip somewhere in that range, I think it's kicking on around 7-8 gallons, or right about the bottom of the wash tub. Maybe with time it will get better.

In this shot it was bucket filled with about 4-5 gallons and manually activated. Water level is just below the flange.

Good news though - NO LEAKS!!

 

[swestoyz]

With all plumbing checking out leak free it was time to button up the machine. Wash tub installed, water valve rebuilt/tested/installed, filler flume installed, fabric softener dispenser cleaned and installed, new clamps for all hoses, NOS outer tub seal installed (found one for a 59/60 that was easily modified for the '58 version of the fabric softener dispenser), and all fasteners required to hold everything together.

Outer tub seal received a liberal coating of The Right Stuff. Again, this stuff is amazing.

Rather than reuse the leaded washers for the tub bolts I used these bonded washers. 3/8 ID, 3/4 OD. From Menards.

 

[swestoyz]

The machine top had been cleaned months before and was assembled just after buttoning up the rest of the machine. Control panel was cleaned, pedestals were buffed with Mother's polish, and a 25w equivalent 2700k LED bulb installed for the timer dial light. Now there is no need to worry about the bulb heat melting the dial!

NOS lid bumpers from a 59/60 were installed on the lid. Sadly one of the super cool '58 and earlier pads was missing.

 

[swestoyz]

So, without further ado, I'm proud to present the 1958 GE automatic! Featured next to it's best friend, the 1958 Frigidaire.

 

[supersuds]

Congrats!

Lovely, amazing. My favorite aunt had one of these and its a thrill to see one looking like new!

 

[swestoyz]

And, the maiden wash with video!

Thankfuly, with a load (tub & water) and some break-in time, the clutch is starting to sound much better. Agitation is super quiet and it revs up to spin quite nicely.

The copper pan was in pretty poor shape, so it received a very light coat of Rustoleum copper paint. Not perfect, but better.

The original pink filter mount on this machine is shot. If anyone has an NOS or gently used mount I'd love to borrow it so copies can be made. Please shoot me a PM if you're interested in helping out.

This machine has exceeded my expectations. GE built a really great washer, and it is unfortunately they don't get as much attention as the dramatic Frigidaires of the same time period, or notoriety as say a belt drive Kenmore/Whirlpool. Yes, there are weak points (outer tub boot/overly weak snubber system), but they also wash the heck out of your clothes.

I'm not sure what the future holds for the dryer. I'd like to find either another '58 920, or enough parts to get the missing trim strips and a good top. If anyone has one they'd be willing unload let me know.

So, I tip my hat to you, GE. You did build some fine appliances, even if you threw in a bit too much value engineering.

Ben

 

[mjg0619]

Beautiful restoration, Ben! Would this machine have been made in Appliance Park or did that plant come afterward?

Also love her neighbors, Freida Frigidaire and Mildred Maytag!

 

[circlew]

Excellent

work. The filter pan looks good - wouldn't have known it was painted if you hadn't said so.

 

Perhaps the fill flume moved when the top was restyled to have the lid with clipped corners. I think that was either for '62 or '63.

 

[losangeles]

1958 GE Restoration

I have watched your YouTube presentation of the 1958 GE FF many times now and am fascinated each time. I then read thru you restoration process and found it to be equally fascinating and interesting. I am not mechanically minded and would never attempt a restoration as complicated as this.  I only understood about 1/4 of the process and was totally lost when you got to the transmission tear down. Your engineering ingenuity and problem solving skills leave me in awe.  The most I have attempted is a belt, timer and water valve replacement. Recently I have been attempting to bring life back into a 1963 Frigidaire Custom. (A big SHOUT OUT) and thank you to BEN for a motor and to BUD (Atlanta) for the many hours of phone consults, answered questions, advice and encouragement plus one office visit. Without you guys I would never even begin to realize a dream. Thank you, Tommy (Losangeles)

 

[combo52]

TOL GE Filter-Flow Restoration

Excellent job Ben, really glad you restored this machine so throughly and it came out so well, I very much enjoyed seeing what you went through doing it.

 

I will keep a lookout for the trim pieces you need for the dryer, also let me know if there are any other parts you need for the dryer. I hate to mention I have a lot of the parts you needed for the washer like the basket drive blocks, water pumps etc.

 

Thanks for documenting the rebuild process so nicely 

 

John L.

 

[pulltostart]

Such a beautiful washer!

And a great job of bringing it back to life.  It's fun to imagine how it would have been back in the day to go shopping for a new laundry pair and these are what you'd be looking at.  As stated above, I only understand about 1/4 of what you did but find your documentation and process fascinating.  Best of luck as you attempt to do a job on the dryer!

 

Again- a beautiful machine and a great job.

 

lawrence

 

[Unimatic1140]

Super cool thread Ben and great restoration, it's practically a brand new 1958 washer! So much fun to just sit back and be able to use the machine now.

By the way I too wondered about that pressure spring on top of the transmission gearing assembly. I really wonder how much of a difference it really makes in slowing the tub during after spin????

 

[chestermikeuk]

1958 Restore

Another fab restoration Ben, look straight out of the showroom, and feel your pain with the "Workarounds" that never quite work out as planned in ones head...

Looking forward to seeing the wash videos !!

 

[pulltostart]

GE questions

In response to questions posed above -

 

This washer would have been produced at Appliance Park, Louisville, KY.

 

The lid with the 'clipped corners' debuted in 1961 with the perforated tub/V12 models.

 

Advertisements for the 1961 models also show the filter flo flume still at the 12 o'clock position.  I am guessing that the flume moved in 1962, possibly related to the development of the Mini-Basket.

 

lawrence

[this post was last edited: 5/2/2020-11:08]

 

[swestoyz]

Thanks for the kind comments, everyone! The transmission just purrs during agitation. If it didn't have the filter flo flowing, it'd almost be silent.

John, I'll shoot you a PM regarding the trim for the dryer. And don't worry, I may have another GE project coming up where assistance from your parts department will be of help

I forgot to post the obligatory shot of the model tag for Ken. The parts master shows that GE pretty much left the 950 alone in '58, with no revisions past R1. However the 953, TOL without the fabric softener, did have a revision, R3, that had the '59 style lid.

Ben