Nice job! Far from a parts donor machine anymore!
A Second Chance for a Rusty Maytag A408
- Thread starter lowefficiency
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Name that oven!
I don't either!
It's been a long couple of weeks, but I've been making good progress on getting our "new" laundry area set up.
Our house originally had basement laundry (based on the presence of a drain standpipe by the utility sink), however the water lines had been cut, electrical removed, and there was no evidence of a dryer vent ever being run to the outside. There were also typical clueless DIY issues like the laundry drain running UPHILL, the sink being too low, the standpipe being too short, cracked and patched PVC fittings, etc. All of the supply plumbing that was there just hung from the ceiling. So in order to actually use these now functional machines, I've had to fix all of those issues.
So now we have all new drain plumbing, proper water line routing and shutoff valves, and all of the other plumbing issues are sorted. I also made an insert to replace the window, which provides an outlet for the dryer vent (and a blank space for a second), and ran a solid vent pipe to the DE806.
Our plan then is to bring the two newer machines from the 2nd floor back down to the basement, placing them to the right of the utility sink, and to reclaim the upstairs "laundry room" to use as a nursery. It will be a little snug, but should all fit.
Next up is electrical...
Our house originally had basement laundry (based on the presence of a drain standpipe by the utility sink), however the water lines had been cut, electrical removed, and there was no evidence of a dryer vent ever being run to the outside. There were also typical clueless DIY issues like the laundry drain running UPHILL, the sink being too low, the standpipe being too short, cracked and patched PVC fittings, etc. All of the supply plumbing that was there just hung from the ceiling. So in order to actually use these now functional machines, I've had to fix all of those issues.
So now we have all new drain plumbing, proper water line routing and shutoff valves, and all of the other plumbing issues are sorted. I also made an insert to replace the window, which provides an outlet for the dryer vent (and a blank space for a second), and ran a solid vent pipe to the DE806.
Our plan then is to bring the two newer machines from the 2nd floor back down to the basement, placing them to the right of the utility sink, and to reclaim the upstairs "laundry room" to use as a nursery. It will be a little snug, but should all fit.
Next up is electrical...
Half way there... 
very neatly done....I like the window idea...
those sinks are always too low for me, hurts my back to bend over while using the sink.....I raised mine up on a platform even with the washer's top...
keep us posted
those sinks are always too low for me, hurts my back to bend over while using the sink.....I raised mine up on a platform even with the washer's top...
keep us posted
Thanks Martin. I can't take full credit for the idea, as it's the same concept as one of Maytag's recommendations in the Halo of Heat service manual (photo below). Maytag's intention was that you would remove a pane of glass from an existing window, and replace it with a pre-cut plate in which to mount the vent. (Maytag part number 59133 for a 12x18 plate, and 59134 for a 15x20 plate.)
In my case, I didn't want to remove glass panes from my nearly 100-year-old windows, as I know how long the glazing putty takes to cure, and didn't want to go that route in our below-freezing weather. I'm also considering the window exhaust to be somewhat temporary while we figure out the laundry layout, then hopefully cutting the "real" holes and replacing the original window sometime next spring or summer when the weather is better for it.
I did take steps to ensure that my new insert retained the expected "window" functionality though - it's still on hinges, and latches securely from inside instead of being permanently fastened. So in an emergency, it would still be a suitable egress window.
In my case, I didn't want to remove glass panes from my nearly 100-year-old windows, as I know how long the glazing putty takes to cure, and didn't want to go that route in our below-freezing weather. I'm also considering the window exhaust to be somewhat temporary while we figure out the laundry layout, then hopefully cutting the "real" holes and replacing the original window sometime next spring or summer when the weather is better for it.
I did take steps to ensure that my new insert retained the expected "window" functionality though - it's still on hinges, and latches securely from inside instead of being permanently fastened. So in an emergency, it would still be a suitable egress window.
Nice work! A laundry install always looks better with fresh and corrected water supply lines/sink/drain, etc. Also, the fit and finish of the dryer exhaust looks top notch.
The previous owners of my 1930's bungalow did the same and I'll be emulating it on a few more windows one of these days.
Ben
The previous owners of my 1930's bungalow did the same and I'll be emulating it on a few more windows one of these days.
Ben
Looks like I haven't updated this thread in a while!
The rusty A408 has been our daily-use machine this entire time, only briefly giving up a few loads here and there to the A209.
We did have one issue, two years ago already, where we would occasionally come back expecting the load to be done, only for the machine to be making humming and clicking sounds... hum, click, hum, click, repeatedly. After a little detective work, I discovered that the motor was incredibly stiff to turn. Not seized, but quite close. So if the load was great enough (such as starting the spin drain), the stalled or nearly-stalled motor would overheat and trip the thermal cutout.
With nothing to lose, we sprayed the motor bearings liberally with a penetrating cleaner, turning it by hand for several applications. This freed the motor up quite well, so after letting it thoroughly dry and re-lubricating it, we put the motor back into service and it's been working great ever since. I replaced the motor glides while it was out, opting for old-stock rollers over the newer square sliding blocks, logic being that while functionally comparable for good-condition machines, the rollers would better tolerate the rough surface of the rusty tracks on the machine base of this one.
The rusty A408 has been our daily-use machine this entire time, only briefly giving up a few loads here and there to the A209.
We did have one issue, two years ago already, where we would occasionally come back expecting the load to be done, only for the machine to be making humming and clicking sounds... hum, click, hum, click, repeatedly. After a little detective work, I discovered that the motor was incredibly stiff to turn. Not seized, but quite close. So if the load was great enough (such as starting the spin drain), the stalled or nearly-stalled motor would overheat and trip the thermal cutout.
With nothing to lose, we sprayed the motor bearings liberally with a penetrating cleaner, turning it by hand for several applications. This freed the motor up quite well, so after letting it thoroughly dry and re-lubricating it, we put the motor back into service and it's been working great ever since. I replaced the motor glides while it was out, opting for old-stock rollers over the newer square sliding blocks, logic being that while functionally comparable for good-condition machines, the rollers would better tolerate the rough surface of the rusty tracks on the machine base of this one.
A few weeks ago however, the A408 developed a squealing sound from the water valve, which was fairly benign until it worsened into a flutter that caused a water hammer oscillation this past week.
I took the valve assembly apart, cleaned it, ensured it was free of debris in the screens and ports in the diaphragms, and re-assembled. I also cleaned the electrical contacts. This unfortunately wasn't enough to resolve the issue, and it appears that Maytag declared these valves "non-serviceable", so replacement diaphragms are not available. I'll have to replace the entire valve.
(See my other thread here: https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?90830_0~1)
In the meantime, I've swapped the wiring and hoses, so that the "bad" valve is on the hot side instead of the cold, so the machine can continue being used for cold/cold washes. The injector hose leaked on reassembly, but it seems fine now after cutting off a half-inch (so it's fresh hose over the barb).
I took the valve assembly apart, cleaned it, ensured it was free of debris in the screens and ports in the diaphragms, and re-assembled. I also cleaned the electrical contacts. This unfortunately wasn't enough to resolve the issue, and it appears that Maytag declared these valves "non-serviceable", so replacement diaphragms are not available. I'll have to replace the entire valve.
(See my other thread here: https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?90830_0~1)
In the meantime, I've swapped the wiring and hoses, so that the "bad" valve is on the hot side instead of the cold, so the machine can continue being used for cold/cold washes. The injector hose leaked on reassembly, but it seems fine now after cutting off a half-inch (so it's fresh hose over the barb).
No unfortunately, if I had one of those control panels, I'd be doing the same project you are! (And the same for this washer if an A806 console was available.)
Reply #32
You probably saw the thread of the Maytag A806 I acquired about 2 weeks ago, but I am going to try to put a customized Maytag Halo Of Heat dryer together with low and regular temperature selections and a auto dry timer (once I obtain a 408 auto dry timer). Low is going to be 120F and regular/high is going to be 155F which will give me some flexibility since a majority of Maytag HOH dryers made from 1966 to 1975 only came with one temperature. Probably will dry fairly quick with a 155F thermostat when on the regular drying temperature.
You probably saw the thread of the Maytag A806 I acquired about 2 weeks ago, but I am going to try to put a customized Maytag Halo Of Heat dryer together with low and regular temperature selections and a auto dry timer (once I obtain a 408 auto dry timer). Low is going to be 120F and regular/high is going to be 155F which will give me some flexibility since a majority of Maytag HOH dryers made from 1966 to 1975 only came with one temperature. Probably will dry fairly quick with a 155F thermostat when on the regular drying temperature.
I have an A 806 console. Missing the timer for sure. I have no need for it, available.
I'm interested, I'll send you a PM! Thanks!
No dryer console.
Reply #37
Not in the greatest rush to find a Maytag 808 control panel, just want to locate one as soon as I can but again not in the greatest rush to find one. Not far from having a Maytag A806 set since all I have to do is put a lighted panel in the DE306 console and will have an 806 set.
Not in the greatest rush to find a Maytag 808 control panel, just want to locate one as soon as I can but again not in the greatest rush to find one. Not far from having a Maytag A806 set since all I have to do is put a lighted panel in the DE306 console and will have an 806 set.
