A806 Timer Motor

[melsintexas]

Hello All

I have an A806 washer. The timer motor is bad in it and I'm having a hard time finding a new one. The timer that was used on mine is the 244992. The 24499 will also work. The timer motor has the plastic dimple on the back as pictured. I also have an A206 washer that I robbed the timer motor from and it's bad too. I have found random timers that have that motor on eBay but no one will show me the ohms reading on the motor. It's all trust me bro it works kind of feedback.

Does anyone have a timer motor they would be willing to sell or recommendations on where to find one?

Thank you so much for your help. Pics attached

 

[cfz2882]

are your 2 bad motors open circuit on the coil?I thought the main problem with this style timer was the plastic gears shrinking from age and cracking.I will look if i have any of those-and if they work if found...

 

[melsintexas]

are your 2 bad motors open circuit on the coil?I thought the main problem with this style timer was the plastic gears shrinking from age and cracking.I will look if i have any of those-and if they work if found...

Yes they both have no continuity. OL reading. That would be great. I would really appreciate it.

 

[qsd-dan]

Yes they both have no continuity. OL reading. That would be great. I would really appreciate it.

Be sure to save them for parts, most failures on these are one of the plastic gears stripping.

 

[melsintexas]

Be sure to save them for parts, most failures on these are one of the plastic gears stripping.

Cool deal will do. They appear to be held together by rivets. Is there a way to separate the two pieces without tearing it up?

 

[qsd-dan]

Cool deal will do. They appear to be held together by rivets. Is there a way to separate the two pieces without tearing it up?

I haven't tried swapping gear parts between timer motors just yet but have had them apart for inspection. I'll have to look further into that.

Here's another option if you're seeking a longer wash, spray rinse, deep rinse, and final spin.

https://automaticwasher.org/threads/kingston-timer-motor-adventures.91239/

There's a used 205424 timer with a 90 second 205845 timer motor on Ebay for $20.00 if you want to give that a try.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144579248937

 

[melsintexas]

I haven't tried swapping gear parts between timer motors just yet but have had them apart for inspection. I'll have to look further into that.

Here's another option if you're seeking a longer wash, spray rinse, deep rinse, and final spin.

https://automaticwasher.org/threads/kingston-timer-motor-adventures.91239/

There's a used 205424 timer with a 90 second 205845 timer motor on Ebay for $20.00 if you want to give that a try.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144579248937

Oh wow! This is you. I read that post a couple days ago and thought you were brilliant. I was trying to figure that whole thing out as an option. I don't mind longer cycles.

Thank you so much for sharing this with me. I'll definitely shoot them a message and see if they will give me an ohms reading on it. If not and the motor ends up being bad at least I wouldn't have spent too much.

 

[qsd-dan]

I don't mind longer cycles.

With todays enzyme based detergents, it's needed.

Around 1976/1977, there was a big reduction in phosphates for both dishwasher and laundry detergents. I have an article in a Maytag brochure from 1977 that goes into detail about the reduction and how it affects performance. I also have the original manual for a Kitchenaid KDS-19 dishwasher (1979-1981) that heeds the same warnings. Before this, a 10 minute wash cycle was more than enough to get things clean but as phosphates were reduced, more time was needed. I suspect this was the reason all 1980-2006 Maytag washers were equipped with at least a 12 minute timer.

With todays detergents that have zero phosphates, a 12 minute wash cycle is now the bare minimum requirement for good washing performance on dirty items. That 90 second timer motor is definitely needed.

 

[phillymatt53]

With todays enzyme based detergents, it's needed.

Around 1976/1977, there was a big reduction in phosphates for both dishwasher and laundry detergents. I have an article in a Maytag brochure from 1977 that goes into detail about the reduction and how it affects performance. I also have the original manual for a Kitchenaid KDS-19 dishwasher (1979-1981) that heeds the same warnings. Before this, a 10 minute wash cycle was more than enough to get things clean but as phosphates were reduced, more time was needed. I suspect this was the reason all 1980-2006 Maytag washers were equipped with at least a 12 minute timer.

With todays detergents that have zero phosphates, a 12 minute wash cycle is now the bare minimum requirement for good washing performance on dirty items. That 90 second timer motor is definitely needed.

What sometimes I do is stop the machine after 5 or so minutes, and bring it back around to 12 again.
Or sometimes just pause the machine for a while.

I remember the 1975ish White Westinghouse with the two agitators that I bought for mom maxed out at 18 minutes normal wash cycle.

 

[phillymatt53]

And remember this ad? 1957 Maytag

 

[qsd-dan]

What sometimes I do is stop the machine after 5 or so minutes, and bring it back around to 12 again.
Or sometimes just pause the machine for a while.

That 205845 timer motor is a direct bolt in for the 206230 timer in your 482. It will take the wash time from 12 minutes all the way to 18 minutes.

I think I have a few of those 206230 timers brand new in my parts stash if you ever need one.

 

[melsintexas]

With todays enzyme based detergents, it's needed.

Around 1976/1977, there was a big reduction in phosphates for both dishwasher and laundry detergents. I have an article in a Maytag brochure from 1977 that goes into detail about the reduction and how it affects performance. I also have the original manual for a Kitchenaid KDS-19 dishwasher (1979-1981) that heeds the same warnings. Before this, a 10 minute wash cycle was more than enough to get things clean but as phosphates were reduced, more time was needed. I suspect this was the reason all 1980-2006 Maytag washers were equipped with at least a 12 minute timer.

With todays detergents that have zero phosphates, a 12 minute wash cycle is now the bare minimum requirement for good washing performance on dirty items. That 90 second timer motor is definitely needed.

Very interesting and helpful info. Thank you for sharing all of that. I ordered the part you shared with me. He wasn't able to give me an ohms reading. So we will see what happens. I may need to pick your brain.

I also emailed Dave's repair and like you and others thought it might be the internal piece that was broken. However once I told him it started filled and then wouldn't switch to agitate in the wash cycle he was a little dumbfounded. He thought I should go ahead and take it apart and check but I really hate to drill out those rivets, however I guess it doesn't matter if they don't work.

I'll keep you posted and I might need to pick your brain once the longer cycles timer motor gets here.

Thank you again for your help.

 

[qsd-dan]

However once I told him it started filled and then wouldn't switch to agitate in the wash cycle he was a little dumbfounded.

Ehhh, if it fills, stops, and doesn't agitate, you have a different problem. Bad lid switch, motor (or motor start switch), timer, or water level switch. I'd start by bypassing the lid switch first. The machine will still agitate with a bad timer motor, it just won't advance the timer (dial).

 

[phillymatt53]

That 205845 timer motor is a direct bolt in for the 206230 timer in your 482. It will take the wash time from 12 minutes all the way to 18 minutes.

I think I have a few of those 206230 timers brand new in my parts stash if you ever need one.

Well Dan, that's very nice of you to offer, thanks.
I'll make a note of that and slip it in my (original owners manual) for safekeeping.

 

[melsintexas]

Ehhh, if it fills, stops, and doesn't agitate, you have a different problem. Bad lid switch, motor (or motor start switch), timer, or water level switch. I'd start by bypassing the lid switch first. The machine will still agitate with a bad timer motor, it just won't advance the timer (dial).

Ohhh no. You're kidding. Holy smokes this has become a huge project. Yes here is the sequence once I start it.

Fills
Doesn't advance to agitate
I manually advance it to start the drain.
It drains advances to rinse them spins. Then fills for rinse again.
After this fill it will not agitate to rinse the clothes.
Manually advance again. It drains. The it advances just short of the OFF location on the dial and won't go any further until I manually advance to OFF.