Adjustable cool down thermostat

[maytag85]

Remember reading through the archives awhile regarding the Maytag HOH dryers, think Dan mentioned (maybe a couple of other people) mentioned about putting a cool down thermostat in to extend the cool down substantially.

While trying to hunt down the cool down thermostat out of curiosity, this one came up. Seem to think it’s the adjustable cool down thermostat, or something close the Gemline thermostats mentioned in the archives.

https://www.amazon.com/Protactor-Ad...b2NaNYsEglasvyCNJlKe3glZU5lpI8XylpS5HzMwU8TSM

 

[combo52]

Adjustable cool down dryer thermostat

Hi Sean, that one you listed could work if it does what it says it is miss labeled. It says L1 30–40 on it if it’s a cool down thermostat it should be an F1 30–40.

Dryer manufacturers stopped using mechanical cool down thermostats because it generated too many service calls. They often cause the dryer to never shut off if the dryer was in a hot environment such as a utility room with a hot water boiler or something.

But this should do what you want, and you have the ability to fiddle around with it and get it to work for your situation.

John

 

[maytag85]

Found another adjustable thermostat

Here’s one that seems to be rated correctly. This one is L130-20, other one was L130-40.

https://www.amazon.com/Supco-AT021-...BOBysZdFc_a5gODcRHAY7ZxoNl0xkRsAR1io4CmFnAyPb

 

[combo52]

Adjustable cool down thermostat

This one is labeled correctly F1 30–20 I question whether the other one was correct because it was a limit thermostat not a cool down fan thermostat

 

[maytag85]

Seem to think the first one was for an attic fan of sorts. The second one seems to be the correct thermostat.

Maybe Dan will chime in, he pretty much knows the HOHs inside and out.

 

[qsd-dan]

These only work on dryers with electronic controlled moisture systems that don't have a timed cooldown period through the timer. They do work but require tweaking depending on its environment and temperature.

In my older home, the laundry room was bigger and shared with I guess what would be considered a den these days. Heat dissipated quicker, requiring a lower temperature for a 10 minute cooldown period. That area also didn't have HVAC venting. The newer home has a small laundry room that's specifically dedicated to laundry equipment only. It retains heat longer and requires a higher temperature to accomplish the same 10 minute cooldown period. Once dialed in, they work very well.

Non-timed electronic controlled HOH's originally came with cooldown thermostats that were rated kind of high and shutoff too early (in my opinion). The 303394 thermos used in SOH's were later substituted for HOH's as they had a slightly lower cooldown temp which helped with wrinkling. Both are rated too high for my tastes but the 303394 is closer to acceptable, especially for the SOH design.

 

[maytag85]

Speaking of the Maytag electronic dry control, would the later style of electronic dry control work, or would it shut off too soon with the 3 moisture sensors as opposed to the single moisture sensor in the later SOH dryers? Still have the electronic dry control unit which is all intact from the 808 console I got last year. Just trying to come up with ideas incase it’s a rainy this upcoming winter.

 

[qsd-dan]

Good question. The 08+ SOH models are not as sensitive as the HOH's. It would probably work but you'd have to fool around with the capacitor rating to make it shut off at the desired moisture. The sensors probably have different ohm ratings (or total ohm ratings for 3 sensors in the HOH) which throws the system off.

It would be a bit complicated properly wiring up the switch but possible with both wiring diagrams on hand. The HOH's have more wire terminals running to the switch.

 

[maytag85]

I might just keep the current 407 timer set up. Though, I’ve toyed around with replacing the high limit thermostat with a bias thermostat rated for L155-25 which would be controlled with the dryness selector which came with the 808 console I got from a member in a Facebook group I am in.

Might sound silly to make the already sensitive high limit thermostat even more sensitive, but the whole reason I want to experiment with that is it’ll have a similar heat output as if it were operating on 120v without having to do complicated engineering with relays switching the voltage from 240v down to 120v. Just by putting a bias thermostat in can achieve the same, if not similar results.

Will also replace the cycling thermostat with a double throw switch thermostat bias thermostat for dual temperatures. Tried dual temperatures earlier this year, didn’t work as intended and just put the 806 console on and the 407 timer setup.

Just trying to come up with a few projects and ideas for the wintertime incase we end up getting lots of rain this winter.