Are gas wall heaters safe?

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Our gas fires and gas central heating boilers have to be vented outside.

In fact, gas fires seem to be dwindling, as local councils replace them with gas central heating and 'focal point electric fires' (the fan heater type).

The only non-vented types that I know of were the old portable paraffin heaters, and bottled Calor Gas Fires - which are still available. The trouble with these, is that condensation builds up in the room very quickly.

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Like DADoES,

my little granny had one of those that a couple of uncles installed in her home in the country, between the living room and the dining room. Now, that house was easily under 1000 sq ft so that thing was like the fires of hell when the doors were open.

Before that, and even after that was instilled, though, she had one of the little gas space heaters in her living room with the sort of ceramic bars that showed some flame. As a little kid I loved to go visit in cold weather and sit near it and just watch the glow. It was fired by butane, and there always seemed to be a distinctive odor in there...

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If it's natural gas, that "whoomp" should be fixable. But if it's LP gas, that is the way it ignites -- all of a sudden. We have LP gas fireplaces and they do that. Scared the heck out of me the first time I saw it.
 
My grandfather in Mississippi had a couple of those gas heaters similar to the one John posted above. His were older models with fancier enclosures. For some reason, I thought they were scary when I was a little kid. Never saw them lit, as we were always there in the Summer. His house also had a fireplace.
 
CircleW

Heaven only knows it could've caught us on fire, as they did with so many children in the past! I always wondered how much butane the thing actually used. My granny had a gas/butane stove and also a gas refrigerator, as she didn't get electricity in the country until around 1950.

The home my parents owned when I was born had one of these little space heaters in the bathroom, but like you, I never saw it lit.
 
Yes, wall heaters are very common in California. As I recall, most of the flats we lived in SF in the 60's had no central heating, just one or more wall heaters, or, even more vintage, free-standing little metal heat boxes. It's a mild climate so it didn't really get all that cold most of the time. Most of them were simple on/off with no thermostat, although you could lower the flame a bit with the gas valve. Really old and funky heaters were recessed in the first floor of homes... the guts protruding into the crawl space or basement below. All that showed above was a floor grating. Woe to the sleepy kid who walks barefoot across a heater grate that has been on for a while! Most of these were turned on an off by a key, sometimes a couple of feet long.

I don't think ventless home heaters are legal in California. All the ones I've seen have flues.

I recall there was a tragedy in Berkeley in the 80's where the Indian owner of an apartment building, who used to rent to young women from India (for not entirely above board reasons, "to work in his restaurant") didn't maintain the heaters. Apparently there was some roof work done and it blocked the flue for one apartment. Multiple deaths from CO poisoning, despite a record of complaints from the tenants about the heating.

I've never seen a wall heater with a double flue like Louis describes. It's a very good idea, though, and prevents outside cold air from being sucked into the dwelling to feed the flame. The air for combustion comes from one of the dual flue pipes. I'm guessing the outer pipe space - the inner one being for exhaust. It serves another purpose - the incoming combustion air is pre-heated by the exhaust flow, making the heater all that more efficient.

My current home, built in '41, has gas forced air heating, which looks like it was installed in the 60's or 70's. I think it replaced an older ducted central heating system - possibly passive - that can be identified by the asbestos wrapped ducting under the house. I gather that column also accommodated a flue for the gas range in the kitchen - they used to have them for the ovens - but the kitchen was remodeled probably around the time the forced air heating was installed, and the stove area turned into an alcove for the fridge and electric wall oven. And I think the old central heating system replaced an original single floor heater in the living/dining room area, which has since been turned into a return for the forced air. I had to do some work on the forced air system when I moved in... cleaned some of the ducting, and added 1" fiberglass insulation around all the ductwork in the crawl space. There are two floor returns, and I had to modify both to accept updated Filtrete air filters, including a long large rectangular cross section return duct. Used to be there'd be a loud tin can bang when the forced air shut off and the return shuddered. Now it's just a barely noticeable thump.
 
I GIVE UP!

Just turned off the pilot on this crap and also shut the main gas valve off.

1) Since i moved, the CO alarm went of 4 times.

2) Tonight, Darryl and I arrived, it was chilly, so the very first thing i did as soon as I opened the door and turned the light on was rush to the thermostat and crank it to 90F. 10 minutes later i said "Honey, isn't it a little bit too hot here?" (I was feeling like a thanksgiving turkey tanning in the oven)

3) Darryl adjusted the thermostat to a decent temperature.

4) a few minutes later, i ask darryl "what smell is that?" (It smelled like a mixture of fart and rotten eggs, typical "partially burnt gas" smell)

4) Darryl went to his father house and I went to the laundry room. 30 minutes later, i hear a series of beeps that sounded like several different alarms sounding at the same time. In fact the 2 first alert CO alarms and the three kidde hardwired alarms (brand new, installed a few days ago went off at the same time)

I ran upstairs, took a deep breath before i walked in, held my breath, ran to the thermostat and turned it off, then ran to the living room window and opened it. went outside, took another breath, ran inside again and opened two other windows. The apartment went from "burning hell" to "walk in cooler" in 5 minutes.

One thing i noticed. If i turn on the ceiling fans, i can see the flame reflecting brighter on the floor at night with light off and the noise changes a little bit. maybe the fans were somehow blowing what they shouldn't be blowing.

Anyway, just in case, i'll never turn that thing on again. I never liked gas, now I have 5 beeping reasons to hate gas for the rest of my life.

Conclusion: Before this thing kills, me, i decided to kill it. F-word the electricity bill. It's cheaper than my life. I already have 1 space heater (electric, ceramic, Pelonis, it is actually excellent for a crappy Walmart product that costed i think $28 when i was in Dallas.

My dryer is electric (Magic Chef compact), the stove I chose will be 100% electric (Samsung, double oven, induction) The water heater is gas (GE), who caes it is installed outside.

I don't want ANYTHING gas indoors.
 
If you can smell that musty insufficiently burnt natural gas odor, and you're getting CO alarms, then the flue may be blocked and you SHOULD shut off that heater until the flue can be completely checked.

I'd let the landlord know there is a potentially fatal problem with that heater. I'd also call the gas company and/or a HVAC company to come out and diagnose and fix it.

If the landlord doesn't fix it, pay someone to do it and then deduct the cost from your next rent payment. This is California and you have a right that the rental unit you are paying for is habitable. It's state law. A defective heater that is the sole source of heat for that unit renders that unit not habitable.

A properly set up and maintained wall heater should not emit any odors, nor should it set off a CO alarm!
 
My sister went from a regular wood burning fire place to converting it to a gas one--and maybe while at least once there was a log burning in it, or maybe it was never used for wood--I'm very forgetful, here!--she complained that the piping & valves emitted a lot of leaks, enough that the work had to be done over, and then the thing after one or two tries became never again ever used (a rather expensive investment) since no one could tolerate the odor, or still winced over the CO-2, or moreover, the fire hazardous-potential...

Oh, but then, the nuisance of having to clean out my fireplace & not wanting the furnace on & relying on it & having to bunk the entire night in the den caused my old fashioned fireplace to also fall into eternal disuse, right down to a bunch of logs somebody threw away down my block to have been picked up after I promised to stop by them one night after work to toss them in the trunk of my car, or perhaps go after them w/ my daughter's wagon--they were right by a light pole, she & would pass by while riding her bike, she can finally ride w/o the training wheels!

So natural gas has to be carefully piped in & installed "by the service of experts" to be safe, to the point where only the water heater in my folks' house ever used it... The furnace was oil and is STILL 'natural crude oil', while everything else there is electric...

-- Dave
 
I agree with Sudsmaster. Your heater clearly has multiple problems despite the landlord's claims. Your landlord might be lying OR he might be repeating what he was told by incompetent service people. I'd find out which company he used, offer to arrange inspection/repair yourself, and call a DIFFERENT company to come in and do the work. A properly functioning unit should be fairly unobtrusive and emit no odor at all during normal operation. But please don't let this experience be your baseline for gas heat, lol.

If you're determined to go electric, you have several options:

- Portable oil-filled electric radiators as Dustin92 advised. These are also available in baseboard configuration.

-Permanently installed version of the above attached to a wall thermostat. I believe these are available in both 120 & 240v models.

The advantage of the above over convection units is that oil-filled (aka hydronic) units hold the generated heat and dissipate it more slowly. This reduces temperature swings --> equal comfort at a lower thermostat setting --> lower electric bills.

An example of portable baseboard:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fahrenh...-Portable-Baseboard-Heater-FHP1500T/205164444

An alternative is to retrofit underfloor electric radiant heat. Access to the underside of the floor isn't required.

https://www.thermosoft.com/en-US/radiant-under-floor-heating/film-ultra-thin

https://www.warmyourfloor.com/radia...ating&utm_content=Electric Floor Heat - Broad

An advantage is that when floors are warm most people are comfortable at a (much?) lower thermostat setting --> (much?) lower electric bills compared to any electric system that heat the air.

The primary disadvantage is that the system is by nature slow to respond to temperature changes. There are several ways around this. One is a timer. Ex. If you know you'll need heat an hour after sundown every day, the system can start heating AT sundown so you'll not experience a temperature drop in the house.

There's a thread on this somewhere here...

Hope this helps,

Jim
 
John, Atlanta Stove Company had those all over the place back in the day. My old place in Atlanta had them. Never had a bit of trouble out of them. I used to shut off the gas and pilot in the spring, turn on the gas and relight the pilot in the fall. We had them in just about every room in the funeral home, as well.
I never heard of anyone having trouble with them and they could keep a house pretty toasty if need be. Of course, one had to keep pans of water on top to add some humidity to the air or it would get dry as a bone in the house!
 
Call your utility company and they will come out and do an inspection, free of charge to see if there is a gas leak. And many times if its an easy fix, they will take care of it on the spot. Otherwise, they will issue a report that you can provide to your landlord.

When I rented, almost every place I lived in had a gas heater of this type. One apartment that I lived in had a small gas heater that sat by itself on the floor, rather than being wall mounted. It was vented, but it was so old that it didn’t even have a pilot light, let alone a thermostat. I had to turn on the gas valve slightly and immediatley light it with a match. If I didn’t light it quick enough it would kind of jump off the floor when I lit it. The only problem I had was that if I forgot to turn it off before I went to bed it would get hot as hell. But this was a huge apt. over a 5 car garage, uninsulated, and that little gas space heater kept it nice and toasty. The winter I lived there was one of the coldest in our counties history, getting down to 15 degrees at night, which is hella cold here in my neck of the woods.
Eddie[this post was last edited: 11/26/2017-14:38]
 
Thomas, you're over-reacting to the concept of gas-powered anything.

 

I'm betting some birds found the the cap on your flue to be a nice toasty location to set up shop with constant warmth provided by the pilot flame.

 

I don't think So Cal Gas will check the flue for you, though.  They're in the gas business and that's all they care about.  Whether your gas appliances are properly vented is your problem -- or in this case, your manager's or landlord's. 

 

For many decades people have used gas for cooking, heating (that includes water), and drying laundry.  If it was as dangerous as you incorrectly think, it would have been outlawed long ago.

 

It might only cost you as much as a month's worth of electric heating to have the flue inspected and cleaned.   Gas is safe, clean burning, and cheap.  That's why it's used in most home and business heating applications. 

 

 
 
Ralph is spot on with that.

However it wouldn't hurt to have the power company check for gas leaks, in addition to calling in a HVAC company.

 

Thomas, your landlord has not made your rental unit habitable. A malfunctioning furnace that repeatedly sets off CO alarms is dangerous and potentially lethal.  I don't think any court of law would question the need to have that fixed at the landlord's expense. If the landlord won't do it, you have an implicit right to have the repairs done and deduct them from your rent. And maybe if the landlord refuses to cooperate, a judge could sentence them to stay in your apartment in the coldest part of the winter with the gas heat turned on? (Like a judge did to a slumlord in NYC some years back...)

 

California law regarding these matters is pretty inclusive, but local laws may add further landlord responsibilities.

 

Also it is illegal for a landlord to retaliate (by eviction, raising rent, harassment, etc) if you exercise your tenant rights.

 

PS-If the landlord is at all uncooperative, do everything in writing for communications about this issue, document everything, in case it does go to court.

Pertinent to this is California state law, from the Department of Consumer Affairs:

Most landlord-tenant relationships go smoothly. However, problems sometimes do arise. <span style="font-size: 12pt;">For example, what if the rental unit's furnace goes out in the middle of the winter?</span> What happens if the landlord sells the building or decides to convert it into condominiums? This section discusses these and other possible issues and problems in the landlord-tenant relationship.

REPAIRS AND HABITABILITY

<span style="font-size: 12pt;">A rental unit must be fit to live in; that is, it must be habitable. In legal terms, "habitable" means that the rental unit is fit for occupation by human beings and that it substantially complies with state and local building and health codes that materially affect tenants' health and safety.129 </span>

California law makes landlords and tenants each responsible for certain kinds of repairs, although landlords ultimately are legally responsible for assuring that their rental units are habitable.

Landlord's responsibility for repairs

Before renting a rental unit to a tenant, a landlord must make the unit fit to live in, or habitable. Additionally, while the unit is being rented, the landlord must repair problems that make the rental unit unfit to live in, or uninhabitable.

The landlord has this duty to repair because of a California Supreme Court case, called Green v. Superior Court,130 which held that all residential leases and rental agreements contain an implied warranty of habitability. <span style="font-size: 12pt;">Under the "implied warranty of habitability," the landlord is legally responsible for repairing conditions that seriously affect the rental unit's habitability.131 That is, the landlord must repair substantial defects in the rental unit and substantial failures to comply with state and local building and health codes.132</span> However, the landlord is not responsible under the implied warranty of habitability for repairing damages that were caused by the tenant or the tenant's family, guests, or pets.133

Generally, the landlord also must do maintenance work which is necessary to keep the rental unit liveable.134 Whether the landlord or the tenant is responsible for making less serious repairs is usually determined by the rental agreement.

The law is very specific as to what kinds of conditions make a rental uninhabitable. These are discussed below.

Tenant's responsibility for repairs

Tenants are required by law to take reasonable care of their rental units, as well as common areas such as hallways and outside areas. Tenants must act to keep those areas clean and undamaged. Tenants also are responsible for repair of all damage that results from their neglect or abuse, and for repair of damage caused by anyone for whom they are responsible, such as family, guests, or pets.135 Tenants' responsibilities for care and repair of the rental unit are discussed in detail below.

Conditions that make a rental unit legally uninhabitable

<span style="font-size: 12pt;">There are many kinds of defects that could make a rental unit unlivable. The implied warranty of habitability requires landlords to maintain their rental units in a condition fit for the "occupation of human beings. "136 In addition, the rental unit must "substantially comply" with building and housing code standards that materially affect tenants' health and safety.137 </span>

<span style="font-size: 12pt;">A rental unit may be considered uninhabitable (unlivable) if it contains a lead hazard that endangers the occupants or the public, or is a substandard building because, for example, a structural hazard, inadequate sanitation, or a nuisance endangers the health, life, safety, property, or welfare of the occupants or the public.138 </span>

A dwelling also may be considered uninhabitable (unlivable) if it substantially lacks any of the following:139

Effective waterproofing and weather protection of roof and exterior walls, including unbroken windows and doors.
Plumbing facilities in good working order, including hot and cold running water, connected to a sewage disposal system.
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Gas facilities in good working order. </span>
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"> Heating facilities in good working order. </span>
An electric system, including lighting, wiring, and equipment, in good working order.
Clean and sanitary buildings, grounds, and appurtenances (for example, a garden or a detached garage), free from debris, filth, rubbish, garbage, rodents, and vermin.
Adequate trash receptacles in good repair.
Floors, stairways, and railings in good repair.

In addition to these requirements, each rental unit must have all of the following:

A working toilet, wash basin, and bathtub or shower. The toilet and bathtub or shower must be in a room which is ventilated and allows privacy.
A kitchen with a sink that cannot be made of an absorbent material such as wood.
Natural lighting in every room through windows or skylights. Windows in each room must be able to open at least halfway for ventilation, unless a fan provides mechanical ventilation.
Safe fire or emergency exits leading to a street or hallway. Stairs, hallways, and exits must be kept litter-free. Storage areas, garages, and basements must be kept free of combustible materials.140
Operable dead bolt locks on the main entry doors of rental units, and operable locking or security devices on windows.141
Working smoke detectors in all units of multi-unit buildings, such as duplexes and apartment complexes. Apartment complexes also must have smoke detectors in common stairwells.142
A locking mail box for each unit. The mail box must be consistent with the United States Postal Service standards for apartment housing mail boxes.143
Ground fault circuit interrupters for swimming pools and antisuction protections for wading pools in apartment complexes and other residential settings (but not single family residences).144

The implied warranty of habitability is not violated merely because the rental unit is not in perfect, aesthetically pleasing condition. Nor is the implied warranty of habitability violated if there are minor housing code violations, which, standing alone, do not affect habitability.145

While it is the landlord's responsibility to install and maintain the inside wiring for one telephone jack, it is unclear whether the landlord's failure to do so is a breach of the implied warranty of habitability.146

An authoritative reference book suggests two additional ways in which the implied warranty of habitability may be violated. The first is the presence of mold conditions in the rental unit that affect the livability of the unit or the health and safety of tenants. The second follows from a new law that imposes obligations on a property owner who is notified by a local health officer that the property is contaminated by methamphetamine. (See When You Have Decided to Rent, Methamphetamine Contamination.) This reference book suggests that a tenant who is damaged by this kind of documented contamination may be able to claim a breach of the implied warranty of habitability.147

Limitations on landlord's duty to keep the rental unit habitable

Even if a rental unit is unlivable because of one of the conditions listed above, a landlord may not be legally required to repair the condition if the tenant has not fulfilled the tenant's own responsibilities.

In addition to generally requiring a tenant to take reasonable care of the rental unit and common areas (see above), the law lists specific things that a tenant must do to keep the rental unit liveable.

Tenants must do all of the following

Keep the premises "as clean and sanitary as the condition of the premises permits."
Use and operate gas, electrical, and plumbing fixtures properly. (Examples of improper use include overloading electrical outlets; flushing large, foreign objects down the toilet; and allowing any gas, electrical, or plumbing fixture to become filthy.)
Dispose of trash and garbage in a clean and sanitary manner.
Not destroy, damage, or deface the premises, or allow anyone else to do so.
Not remove any part of the structure, dwelling unit, facilities, equipment, or appurtenances, or allow anyone else to do so.
Use the premises as a place to live, and use the rooms for their intended purposes. For example, the bedroom must be used as a bedroom, and not as a kitchen.148
Notify the landlord when dead bolt locks and window locks or security devices don't operate properly.149

However, a landlord may agree in writing to clean the rental unit and dispose of the trash.150

If a tenant violates these requirements in some minor way, the landlord is still responsible for providing a habitable dwelling, and may be prosecuted for violating housing code standards. If the tenant fails to do one of these required things, and the tenant’s failure has either substantially caused an unlivable condition to occur or has substantially interfered with the landlord’s ability to repair the condition, the landlord does not have to repair the condition.151 However, a tenant cannot withhold rent or has no action against the landlord for violating the implied warranty of habitability if the tenant has failed to meet these requirements.152

Responsibility for other kinds of repairs

As for less serious repairs, the rental agreement or lease may require either the tenant or the landlord to fix a particular item. Items covered by such an agreement might include refrigerators, washing machines, parking places, or swimming pools. These items are usually considered "amenities," and their absence does not make a dwelling unit unfit for living.

These agreements to repair are usually enforceable in accordance with the intent of the parties to the rental agreement or lease.153

Tenant's agreement to make repairs

The landlord and the tenant may agree in the rental agreement or lease that the tenant will perform all repairs and maintenance in exchange for lower rent.154 Such an agreement must be made in good faith: there must be a real reduction in the rent, and the tenant must intend and be able to make all the necessary repairs. When negotiating the agreement, the tenant should consider whether he or she wants to try to negotiate a cap on the amount that he or she can be required to spend making repairs. Regardless of any such agreement, the landlord is responsible for maintaining the property as required by state and local housing codes.155

 

 
guys, thanks for all the advices.

my landlord is actually great. I'm sure that once I mention the problem, he'll immediately try to find a solution. I had an issue with ONE of the bindings, he bought 2 new ones and said he will replace 1 per month. it sounds more than fair. I wanted an electric outlet for the stove (the apartment has only gas) two days later the electrician was here to see the area and ask me exactly where I wanted the outlet. the landlord will pay. he has no problems with upgrades. I hate the laminate floor, he already said I can install the floor I want, as soon as it's reasonable (aka not gold or travertine marble) and send him the bill. same with the horrible parrot green on the living room and master bedroom walls.

he already said he's going to redo the kitchen after 1 year. (he just finished the bathroom that is 100% new and he needs some time to breath because it was expensive.) it sounds more than fair, isn't it?

I don't believe he was negligent. the gas company inspected it before turning on the gas and they found a silly thing wrong and that was enough to make him hire a professional to inspect the heater.

it happened 2 days before I moved in. I was arriving here when the gas company had just left. they inspected the heater and finally turned on the gas like 5 minutes before I arrived. the water from the heater (also BRAND NEW) was still cold.

I know gas is safe when the appliance is well kept and regularly inspected. I used gas stoves all my life.

I could be overreacting, ONE CO alarm going off eventually is understandable and not a reason to panic. shut the heater off, open the windows, wait for it to stop, try again... sometimes a smoke or a co alarm may go off accidentally. but when we have FIVE alarms going off at the same time, with seconds of difference between then, then it's hard to believe it was just a hiccup that caused a false alarm. they really went off.

I am still intrigued by the. ceilling fan. i still didnt buy a bed, so i use an air mattress that is on the floor next to the heater. at night, with everything dark and now the floor is clean and shining, I can see the blue flame reflecting on the floor. actually the position I am allows me to see the living room through the gaps on the bottom.

when I turn on the ceiling fan, I can see the flame changing a lot. it turns orange and even the heater noise changes (sounds like a blow torch). I am more than aware that yellow flames mean danger.

what makes me intrigued is, how can a fan cause such huge difference?

I didn't understand very well the thing about the gas company and pilots. have you tried to say that they intentionally adjust the pilot to maximum to spend more gas? one thing I noticed is the heater is always hot, even when it's off. well, not really hot, but lukewarm and considering the pilot is a little bit on the ENORMOUS size, I could instinctively guess the pilot is keeping the heater a little warm when it's off. I mean, no matter where I touch the heater, it is hot enough to be noticed, but not to burn my hand.
 
A Few Points of Clarification

Thanks to everyone who has commented and responded so far. In addition to Thomas, I am also a signatory party to this particular apartment. I have not said anything up until this point, because there were specific questions and concerns mentioned in the original post regarding the safety and practicality of a wall heater in an apartment.

There is no issue about the general safety of the product. It has been especially helpful to hear about other's experiences and situations in California, particularly Southern California.

The reason for the question at all is because of concerns that we have about the unit itself. The landlord told us that he replaced the wall heater after the previous tenant moved out after having lived there for more than fifteen or so years. In addition to the metal grill frame on both sides of a wall, a new thermostat was installed. Technically, everything works, but it does not seem as fine tuned as other wall units I have seen in the past. In other words, there is little variance between "warm" and "hot."

The carbon monoxide and smoke alarm alerts have happened more than the one time Thomas spoke about in post #970025, though this was the first time that all five devices sounded at once, and with the "burnt gas" odor. The landlord responded to the first incident by replacing all of the smoke detectors with new units.

Several have commented on what the landlord should do in response to these issues. The lease clearly outlines the roles and legal responsibilities of the landlord and the tenant, which Rich cited and provided the pertinent link to in the California Department of Consumer Affairs web site.

Part of the problem and frustration is that the apartment is maintained through a property management firm, and not directly through the landlord. It has not helped that the landlord and the owner of the management company frequently contradict each other in front of the tenants on this and other matters. Things get done slowly when referred to the firm, so the landlord goes over the head of the manager, which causes a great deal of tension and delay on other projects.

The apartment itself is on the second floor of a structure that was built 70-75 years ago, when Los Angeles city building codes regarding gas connections and gas appliances were different from what they currently are. While there have been modifications and upgrades over the years to conform the the code changes, to keep the apartment habitable, they are not the same as if the building was constructed in 2017. We understood this when signing the lease, though not to the extent that we now know and recognize. It is for this reason that Thomas said that he did not want any more gas appliances inside the building, as in a range and a clothes dryer, though we were and are now looking at electric appliances. We had already discussed this separately regarding personal preferences, not out of fear or any other such concern.

Thomas and I have the impression that we are caught in the middle of something between the landlord and property manager, where certain work would not be done, or corrected, at all unless we point out the matter. The wall heater and other gas connections is probably the biggest issue so far, because it cannot be brushed off at this time of the year when the weather is beginning to change. Moving is not an option at present, given the expenses and time already involved.

Please feel free to contact either of us privately if there are any questions.

Thanks!
 

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