Asko 20003 Stopped spinning (F6 fault)

[mat_l]

My 20003 has stopped spinning (showing F6 fault). Any hints???

It washes fine up to the first spin cycle and does those first low speed turns in preparation for the spin but as soon as it is about to start the spin proper it cuts out. If it was a 12003, I would expect brushes but as I understand the 20003 motor is brushless. I don't know where to start.

This was the first test wash after I replaced the shocks (they were dead and the drum was bashing the sides during spin. The shock change did required shifting the motor control panel to access the front shock but that was a fairly minor and low impact move of the panel.

If it is that control panel, do you happen to know if the other 20000 machine control panels can work in the 20003? and if a replacement control board from the USA (110V) will work in a 230V machine?

 

[launderess]

While don't have any personal experience with Asko washers, was able to find following.

https://www.justanswer.com/applianc... means the,motor brushes that need replacing .

Asko Washing Machine Error Codes

Here is information that will assist you in identifying what may be making your Asko washer display an error code. Identifying what the error or fault

removeandreplace.com

 

[henene4]

There is very little documentation on this machine online.

If you recently worked on the machine, check all wiring first.
A loose connector seems very likely.

I can't realy find any parts diagramm giving me the info needed.

I don't think that generation of the machine would already use an inverter system for a brushless motor, but the motor really looks brushless.

Repair Clinic only lists one PCB, so perhaps it is integrated in that?
But that appears to only have 2 connections, so seems weird.

If all connections and wires are good I'd meter out the motor.

While I can't find any documentation on the motor, there are 5 wires (black black white blue red according to a picture I found).

To my best knowledge and given the coloring, I'd guess that the 2 blacks should have some form of resitence to each other and that the colors are somehow connected.

Checking all to ground (so the motor chasis) and to each other seems like a good idea.
If any resitance value jumps out to you your motor might be dead.

I don't know the model lineup or the PCB setup, but usually cross compatibility is limited.

But I am most certain an US module would not work on your machine; I don't think they were that modular and that they were running the PCBs off of line voltage.

 

[launderess]

General consensus for these machines seems to be "F6" code means to check wiring to motor or replace same.

Don't think Asko washers of this vintage sold in USA ever used 120v, far as one knows Asko washers until rather recent vintage such as the WM6511 otherwise all used 220v power. Then again Asko in USA went through a few owners (including Merloni who gave us the W/D combo unit), so who knows what's out there.

People liked Asko washers in USA for one thing because it required only a true 220v connection. This rather than the 220v/120v Miele used before dropping to only true 120v.

Found this online: https://www.midwestdistributing.com/Store/Manuals/Asko/03 Washer/2003WASHER.pdf

Looking at above parts diagram no mention is made of brushes, just the motor itself.

If you want to have a go at service mode:

 

[mat_l]

Thanks Launderess

Launderess

Thanks for that info on the early US asko

I suspect I have found the issue - same as documented here
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repai...wm-200a)-control-board-missing-thermistor-()/

It is a thermistor on the board that causes it to work until the spin then shut off then show F6. From research, a number of people have commented that F6 or control board issues can be replacement belts that are not static free. However, it has the original belt so it wasn't that.

In case someone else needs this in the future, the 20003 control board was not shown in the 20003 exploded diagram and parts list, but the part number is 8801138-R

Asko Washing Machine (WM-200A) Control Board - missing thermistor (?) - Page 1

Asko Washing Machine (WM-200A) Control Board - missing thermistor (?) - Page 1

www.eevblog.com

 

[launderess]

Am having a faint twinge of memory

Seem to recall reading about that thermistor issue.

Over years a few Asko WM200** models showed up locally on CL, so was doing research before perhaps having a go. These are or were great washing machines, but Asko had issues with them including control board. Of course when machines were new parts were easily found, even if cost dear. Now of course decade or decades after model production ended finding new parts may be difficult.

 

[richnz]

Take some photos of

the control boards. The answer may be right there.

I found a document but they never have pcb level details.

http://docshare04.docshare.tips/files/22599/225997012.pdf

 

[gizmo]

I have a suggestion to try...

Several years ago (10 to 20 years?) I rescued 4 Asko 12004 machines from the recycle centre. They were warranty rejects - machines that had been used for a while then developed a fault and returned under warranty but were not able to be repaired, and so scrapped. The first 2 had the same fault and I was able to fix them. the other 2 had been deliberately vandalized to stop them being repaired, I kept them for spares. The 2 better ones had been partly dismantled, a lot of diagnosis had been done but the fault wasn't found. fortunately the removed parts were inside the drum. I had to reassemble them to start fault-finding...

...The fault turned out to be that they wouldn't spin. Everything else was fine.

Bottom line was... these machines have 2 separate pressure switches, the drum has only one pressure hose, there is a fine tee-piece and the air hose splits off at the tee to the two pressure switches. There was a blockage of gunk, probably a mix of soap residue and body fat caused by cold washing, in the air hose, I vaguely recall it was at the tee-piece. This kept some air trapped in the hose and stopped one of the pressure switches from resetting, so the machine thought it still had too much water inside and wouldn't spin.

 

These 2 machines went on to have long lives - one was my washer for years and proved very reliable, the other I gave to a friend, his wasn't so reliable but with a few repairs still lived maybe 10 years more.

 

This is a very simple easy thing to check. Disconnect the air hose(s) at the pressure switch(es) and blow back down the hose. You should hear the blown air in the drum.  Reconnect the hose. Test the machine.

If you get the machine working, do a VERY hot wash to clean muck out of the air dome and hose.

 

[launderess]

Wait, I Told A Lie

Asko did sell a washer specifically for North America that ran on 120v power, the WM80-8005.

It was an odd duck in that yes, machine took 120v power, but IIRC there was a rather large transformer inside that stepped up power to 220v. Miele for their W7XX and W10XX washers had their own work around. Creda never sold anything in USA that ran on 120v.

https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?84427

These were rather limited washers IMHO. Only three temp choices with "hot" being limited to 140F. Warm was 50/50 tap hot and cold water, and cold was whatever came out of tap.

 

[mat_l]

Thanks gizmo

I had that issue on my 12003 ended up being the Y joiner. However have discovered its the control board with the 20003.

My 12003 is my favourite washer of our group. At 85kg - built like a tank so it finds almost any load easy. It just cleans like nothing else and its hand wash is so good.

The 20003 is amazingly close to the 12003 in wash quality and its brushless motor just runs so smoothly.

 

[launderess]

"However have discovered its the control board with the 20003"

What you going to do?

 

[mat_l]

Launderess

It is in for repair.