At What Temp Do You Set Your AC?

[toploader55]

@ Laundress...

As it was explained to me,

The unit retains water to help cool the Condensing Coil outside. There is a solid round ring attached to the fan on the outside part of the A/C. This is called the "slinger". It picks up the condensate water that the evaporator has removed from the inside of the room and sprays it over the condensor coil to help remove the heat from the refridgerant.

I too have a Friedrich and it will drip water only when the pan is full on the outside. I was told to leave the plug in for maximum operation. The drain kits are for the Transom Installations or Installations when you don't want the condesate water to be annoying such as dripping on passers by or creating puddles on sidewalks etc.

Hope this helps.

 

[rickr]

73 daytime when we are home, and 75 at night. We still use a small window unit in the bedroom at night, because the 2nd floor is always a bit warmer, and we like it cool to sleep.

The technicians that installed the new furnace and central air told us never vary the temp more than a couple of degrees on the a/c side. (temp set up for cooling, vs set down for heating) As it takes more energy to bring the temp and humidity back to where they were, if you "set up" the setting more than a couple degrees. On the heating side, the "set back" is about 5 degrees at night.

 

[retro-man]

I have had window units like you are mentioning with the water that hits the fan and goes over the coils to help with cooling. The idea is a fine one, but I have found that while this is good on one end it is bad for the case of the unit. I have seen them rust out within a 5 year period and then they put into the dumpster. I removed the plug on another one and let it drip. No noticable difference in cooling but that unit lasted more than 10 years with no rust. So I guess it is a give and take idea. I prefer for them to drain out than to rust out and replace.
Jon

 

[toploader55]

Jon...

Exactly.

While the theory makes sense, Throwing water all over the place doesn't make sense.

My Grandfather had a 15,000 BTU Carrier from the late sixties. When he heard that water splashing around, he drained it and drilled a hole in the chassis for the condensate water to drain. It had of used R-22 becuase the air that came out of that unit could freeze your butt off,

 

[twintubdexter]

Yikes!...

...61 degrees, I don't think my thermostats even go that low. I would freeze at 68 in the winter. It's supposed to it 113 today which is insane for May. Southern California Edison recently installed "smart meters" in my area...eliminates them paying for meter-readers and allows them to charge you an extra monthly fee, how nice. At least with these new meters I can use the computer to monitor how much power I've used to date as well as today's usage. You can also see the current amount of your bill which elminates "Summer Surprises." I set a budget amount and the computer alerts me when I've exceeded it, and they estimate your total bill for the month too. All this is just part of living in here in the Desert. It helps to remind yourself that Winter heating bills are around $20.00.

 

[launderess]

Water Inside AC

Usually take our wall units out each Fall for cleaning and such before covering the inside for the winter. Since this new AC's motor does not require oiling like the previous model that chore should be a bit easier. Still will peek at the insides for signs of rust.

 

[mark_wpduet]

A/C 71 summer

Heat 67 winter

Both electric.

I've tried to higher A/C settings, 74, 75, 76 and I can't stand it. Even with the ceiling fans on, it just feels too uncomfortable to me. I'm an A/C addict too. Perhaps I should move it to 72, since 72 is an even #? LOL

 

[maytagbear]

I have a small bedroom window unit.....

and it is not marked in degrees, being analog. I have it set at "9", and low fan.

To me, air conditioning should be Arctic, or what's the point? However, beyond the coolness, the dehumidification is even more important to this Bear.

Lawrence/Maytagbear

 

[jerrod6]

 71?  Mark,  I would die.  With my older previous unit I did run the temp at 73, then 74.  Now with this current system I can't stand anything less than 76 which is why I have it set at 76 after 9pm.  Interesting too because I have one CA unit that is cooling a 3 story house.  As you move upward the temperature gets warmer....until the Ac period turns on  then it seems to get all of the floors close in temperature.

 

My current unit has a  humidity removal step when it  first starts and now that I think about it, this may be the reason I can take higher temperatures and can't take lower ones anymore.  I think I read that if you reduce the humidity higher temps don't feel as bad.

 

Anyway no way I could take anything under 75F during the day for cooling(not to even mention I couldn't afford the bill) but for heating I have it at 67F during the day  and 65F at night, but during the day I have to wear 5 layers of shirts to be comfortable. Talk about winter bulk - ugh.

 

What type of electric heat do you have?

 

[DADoES]

 
<blockquote>To me, air conditioning should be Arctic, or what's the point?</blockquote> Point = avoiding power bills that require a 2nd mortgage!

 

[cuffs054]

Arbilab,
Atlanta Gas Light Company, AGL, would put in a gas fired, water tower cooled, Arkla/Servel Sun Valley HVAC unit back in the mid 50's. If you bought one you got 2x/yr service for the life of the unit. My mom-in-laws was still running great into the early 1990's when AGL was struggling to find service men old enough to know how to service it. It cooled/heated great!

 

[mark_wpduet]

Yes. 71. The hottest I could probably stand would be 73. But once it's 74 or higher in the house, I can just tell and it makes me uncomfortable.

It's a TRANE XR11 heat pump (electric) that came with the house when it was built in 2004 and it's a single story home.

The PROBLEM I notice is that in a newer subdivision, (like mine) there aren't these huge tall trees around for shade because everything is still growing, so the FULL sun hits the house.

A also notice something else. Take a day where there is FULL sun, but say it's only 65 degrees outside, you would think that with the windows opened and it's 65 outside that the thermostat wouldn't go much above 65.........but the inside temp will stay in the mid-70s on a 65 degree day, and even with the windows open I sometimes feel like turning the air on because it's in the mid-70s in the house. Perhaps it's a combination of the sun and the electronic in the house or something. I don't know.

 

[mark_wpduet]

PS

I also notice that in the winter, keeping my heat set at 67 vs A/C set at 71, the power bill is always MUCH more in the winter than summer. So, even set as low as 67 in cold winter vs set at 71 on a hot summer, the winter power bill is always more. I supposed it costs more to heat than cool a home. The most my summer power bill has ever been is 150.00 if it's an extended period of HOT weather, but typically its more around 120. In winter, if extended cold, it can be in the 160's

 

[thomasortega]

23C
365 days a year

 

[kenmore71]

In the winter I am at the mercy of a a one-thermostat 10 unit apartment building with gravity designed hot-water radiator heat. Night temp is usually 66-68 and daytime is generally 70-73. In the summer I have 3 small window units. Living room is usually kept between 75-78. Bedroom is 72-75 at night, in the galley kitchen an old, squeaky 5000 BTU window unit does whatever it can to keep daddy from sweating up a storm!

 

[wayupnorth]

I guess everyone has quite a difference in their power costs. Here in Maine it is high, especially for running an a/c, but I am going to sleep comfortable regardless if it is humid. 85% of the state heat with oil which is $3.60 a gallon that most furnaces can use in an hour. Unfortunately, we need heat most of the time so we pay thru the nose to be comfortable. The way this year is going so far I may not have to put the a/c in but may need to schedule an oil delivery.

 

[twintubdexter]

Here in the Palm springs area I'm a little more fortunate than many of my neighbors. I have a traditional styled home built in 1999 with a sloped roof covered with concrete tiles. The attic area is huge with about 3 feet of insulation over the ceiling joists. The air ducts are thickly insulated as are the the 4, 10 foot skylight shafts. There are two wind turbines on the roof that draw air from side vents on the house. All of the 66 homes in my community were built with the standard insulated walls and double pane windows. My entire house has 9 foot ceilings which are fine for me. I think most people don't realize you air-condition (and heat) cubic feet, not square feet. Depending on the style of the house some of my neighbors have 12 foot ceilings in some rooms. I have friends who have a 5,000 sq foot home (for 2 people!) with 18 foot ceilings...hence the need for 4 central systems. The people on either side of me have Southwest/Pueblo styled homes with flat roofs which provide very little room for insulation. Their electric bills for Summer are usually much higher than mine even though they have smaller homes. They have 12 foot ceilings in the living areas too. I bought the right house for someone who's a cheap skate.

 

[henry200]

Central AC is at 78-80.  I don't so-much need it really cool as dry.  The dehumidifier in the basement runs from March to October, and with the furnace fan set on continuous the house is always comfortable.  Due to lots of mature trees, most of the house is heavily shaded, and it takes a long time before it heats up inside.  After a week of outdoor temps in the 70s-80s and 93 last Sunday, and even with windows open, the house was still about 64. 

 

During the heating season the thermostat is programmed for 67 when I get up in the morning, then cuts back to 60 when I leave for work, and down to 55 at night.  I have a fire in the woodstove every evening or on days when I'm home which heats the kitchen/sitting room comfortably.  My gas+electric bill is a little over $100 per month year-round on the budget plan. 

 

[spookiness]

Question for Laundress

Could you please provide additional comments on your Friedrich? Size, model, etc.?
I am interested in one, but I would have to order it, and no local dealers in my area carry them. Is it quiet? I'm looking at the Chill series 5450 or 6000 btu models for a bedroom.

I have seen reviews of Frigidaires, and CR rates the appropriately sized model well, but I'm hesitant because I have a 12k btu Frigidaire in my living room and it is noisy as hell. I've read online review, and I've read CR ratings, and I just can't discern any consistent pattern. Some love, some hate, etc.

If this initiates a separate thread about window A/C comparison shopping, that would be great too Thank you.

 

[mark_wpduet]

Wow!

It's June 1st, overcast, 4:30 pm and 57 degrees outside. Doors/windows, closed, blinds open, A/C set at 71, and it just kicked on and ran for 5 minutes! Crazy!

 

[launderess]

Friedrich

Cannot tell about their other types as only have owned "Wallmaster" units as they fit the wall sleeves.

Former unit was built around the mid-1980's or 1990's (cannot remember which) and once it had undergone a major cleaning (see my woes with that unit posted in the archives)worked a treat. It was near the last of the old heavy Amercian built, all metal, dial controlled, Freon using, things that did the job.

Newer model was snagged on a great deal and though electonic and is built with less metal than previous units seems to work just as well. This unit was built around 2008 and from what one can tell made in the USA.

Friedrich has a reputation as one of the better AC units in North American and certainly one of the last if not the only remaining to produce in the USA if not "North America" buy also having plants in Mexico. Either way streets ahead of some of the cheap Asian tat that barely lasts one season and doesn't offer much cooling strength for the money.

Latest issue of CR has ratings of AC's and IIRC they did't test many if any Freidrich units. Would have to go back and read the report to see what that was all about.

 

[arbilab]

Say Cuffs

I remember Arkla from their displays at Texas State Fair in the mid-50s. I was only 9-11 but back then kids could be on their own in public places so I wandered the entire acreage, not just the midway. Arkla gave me an animation flip book of Servel ice maker, had it until I left home. Wonder what those books go for on ebay?

Arkla was just a regional gas company. Arkansas and Louisiana, based in Shreveport. From what I can read now, Arkla was a nickname, not their stock market name. Their relationship to Servel is even foggier.

Other than the exhibition models I never saw one in real life.

 

[lovestowash]

Wow!...such Frigid-aire...

I have a mid-century, 2-level ranch that is drafty, yet very shaded in the Summer...

I had the HVAC replaced about 3 years ago...

Summer, when I'm not at home during the day, A/C stays at 80...and typically doesn't activate till late afternoon...

If I'm out of town, A/C stays at 82...

When home during the day, usually at 78...

Sleep time, it goes no lower than 76...works fine with a ceiling fan, and no pajamas, no cover...

Ceiling fans in every room...

Typically takes no more than an hour to go from low 80's to high 70's...

Winter, the therm stays at 55, with sweats on...

When company comes, I crank it up to possibly 65...

I have gas heat, and the lower the temp, the fewer sinus-related issues I have...

And, with aging, I don't sweat nearly as much as I used to...

 

George

 

 

 

[daveamkrayoguy]

Jumping Ahead to DaveAMKrayoGuy's HEATING Settigs: (&#39

Moving "ahead", the following temps HEAT the best & look good on the Thermy:

72 ... 74 ... 75 ... 76 ... 78 ... 80 ... 82 ... 84 ... 85

(Cold up here now!)

Actually, I never set my heat past 76, so the 78, through 85, really belong in my previous post!

-- Dave

 

[sudsmaster]

It doesn't matter what temp I set it to, because I never turn it on. At least not in the house.

Actually, have two Daewoo 5,000 BTU window units, but they've been in storage for the past couple of years. I'd rather have the window access instead of these things.

The temps here are moderate enough that A/C is needed only about two weeks a year. Normally I can ventilate the house during the evening/night, and then close it up in the morning, and it's still fairly cool when I get home. Lots of attic insulation and a ventilated roof helps.

In the car that has a temp readout, I find 72 is cool enough.

And the truth is, the 5,000 BTU Daewoo units really weren't up to cooling down the place, anyway.

 

[oldskool]

70 Most of the Time

Typically 70 works great; sometimes when not as warm outside and feels muggy in the house, maybe 67 or 68. Love it cool; don't mind paying the bill for comfort. Would rather cut a few other things from my budget if need be, to stay comfortable.

 

[arbilab]

I hope you eskimoes have some loaner parkas for thinner-skinned visitors.

 

[oldskool]

Funny

Actually, arbilab - I keep throws nearby all sitting areas for those who say they're freezing when they visit, along with extra blankets and quilts in all bedrooms just for the "thin blooded" visitors. And for those still not satisfied - I keep a few electric blankets around. LOL

John

 

[arbilab]

I hear my apartment neighbors running air when I'm running heat. I don't get it. If it's 55 outside and they want it 68 inside, why not open a window?

Even with higher summer rates here, air is cheaper than (electric) heat, by about half. I'd do better if I were wired the other way 'round.

What's rough on me is dressing for 100 outside and going in a restaurant or theater that's 70. Seems more like it cold than warm. Those places wouldn't spend the extra money otherwise.

 

[wayupnorth]

It has rained 12 out of the last 14 days and we are now under a flood watch from NOAA. It barely made it to 50 today and has been raining heavily since yesterday and expected to continue thru Thursday. Please send some of the nice sunny warmer weather this way, I am so looking forward to running a/c.