Bendix Washer Pump Impeller Extraction

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jond

Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2019
Messages
9
Location
Virginia
Anyone have any tips or tricks for extracting a fragile aluminum impeller off the shaft of a Bendix drive unit with no clearance to get a gear puller on it? Only thing I can think of is take the whole drive out, loosen the cap on the back of the motor, and try to push the impeller off the end of the shaft with the whole back of the motor. I did get the set screw out and tried a round 1 with a torch and vise grip pliers on the hub. Zero movement.

Somehow on running my machine, the screws behind the pump impeller backed out alot and the aluminum pump housing now has quite a bit of wobble on the back end of the drive motor. What started as a little water leak has become too large of a leak to ignore.

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Bendix made a special hub that could screw into the hole for the set screw, that then had a long bolt extend outwards to a slide hammer.

Ran into the same problem several years ago. Fashioned up something similar with a cheap L bracket from the hardware store and a bolt through the set screw hole. With a little heat it worked like a charm.

If you need to take the housing off might I suggest an impact driver to remove the two screws holding it on. Brute force will only strip out the heads.

Ben

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Much appreciated!

The impact driver and torch I've got. Guess I'm getting a shiney new slide hammer. Hope that little set screw hole holds for me too.
 
A two man job

I’ve had the same problem with the machines I’ve worked on !! I applied loads of heat from a flamed blow torch not a hot air heated version . Once the screw is out I tapped the impeller with a small chisel and small hammer where the drive shaft goes into the impeller . At the same time I got a friend to hold the drive pulley on the back of the motor . This has worked every time for me and surprisingly the two screws that hold the pump housing to the motor came out surprisingly easily ! The pump parts on all of the machines have been terrible corroded so I’ve had the pumps sand blasted and powder coated to prevent the problems occurring again !
The seals are a challenge to find but in the end I used double lip seals as the old carbon face seals were almost impossible to get hold of . I cleaned the drive shaft to almost mirror finish and got 2 double lip seals into the recess of the housing so there are 4 barriers in total !! The surface of the pumps where the water flows over is really smooth so hopefully lint and soap scum won’t lodge in the pump dispute the surface being very pitted . At the moment all is well ....... no leaks
 
A two man job

I’ve had the same problem with the machines I’ve worked on !! I applied loads of heat from a flamed blow torch not a hot air heated version . Once the screw is out I tapped the impeller with a small chisel and small hammer where the drive shaft goes into the impeller . At the same time I got a friend to hold the drive pulley on the back of the motor . This has worked every time for me and surprisingly the two screws that hold the pump housing to the motor came out surprisingly easily ! The pump parts on all of the machines have been terrible corroded so I’ve had the pumps sand blasted and powder coated to prevent the problems occurring again !
The seals are a challenge to find but in the end I used double lip seals as the old carbon face seals were almost impossible to get hold of . I cleaned the drive shaft to almost mirror finish and got 2 double lip seals into the recess of the housing so there are 4 barriers in total !! The surface of the pumps where the water flows over is really smooth so hopefully lint and soap scum won’t lodge in the pump dispute the surface being very pitted . At the moment all is well ....... no leaks
 
Any chance you remember where you got that pump shaft seal?

Got my impeller out, but damaged the screw hole. Will have to have it welded shut and re-drilled. Need something around 3/8 x 1-1/8 or 9.5 x 28.5 mm. That large of an OD for such a small ID is a challenge.
 
Seal

The impeller is an alloy and I wonder if depending on the state of the screw hole you could re thread the hole and get a replacement screw to fit the resized screw hole . An alternative could be to seal the existing damaged screw hole up and bore a new hole completely on the opposite side of the impeller and tap the hole and use a new screw ?
I got the lip seals from a company in the UK . I measured them with a metric callipers and put them in the pump housing . The original seal is carbon faced and was a challenge to find here but but subsequently I found a supplier on eBay that traded out of China who made the sizes we needed. I have Bought a few and put them away incase the lip seals eventually fail ? The China company are very cost effective and I didn’t have to wait too long . To be fair I had messed about with the pump for ages and couldn’t be bothered to strip it down again and put a carbon seal in as it was water tight with the double lip seal arrangement . I’m not sure if you call them the same thing in the states so will find a picture .
 
This is the seal profile

This is the type of seal and because the profile is so small I got two of them into the pump housing . This gave 4 water barriers on the shaft as each seal is a double . Ideally the seal works better on a stainless steel drive shaft but I cleaned the drive shaft up with abrasive paper till it was mirror polished and will hope it lasts . Alls good a present .

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I appreciate the info. Think while I am at making sort of a a resto-mod anyway I am just going to throw in a new universal pump. Can't beat this price and it will give me peace of mind that if I throw in a load of shop rags or something I probably wont come back to a swimming pool in my garage.

https://www.amazon.com/ERP-WH23X10030-Washer-Drain-Pump/dp/B010G7R95A
 
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