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A vote for TIDE he powder boosted with STPP. I only buy it on sale at the Bull's-eye Botique with coupons so it's not very expensive. Good cleaning, easy rinsing and no fragrance left behind.

I have Cheer liquid for dark colors, but most of the wash is done with TIDE powder.
 
Overhere in the Netherlands the Dutch consumer organisation tested color detergents. Persil powder came out as the best. The Persil liquids performed less. Strangely enough the #2 and #3 were liquids. Aldi's liquid Una turned out to be second best and Albert Heijn's AH home brand (Albert Heijn is a premium supermarket here) ended up third. The powdered versions of both performed less...
 
Not sure what the real difference is between the orange and

but to the best of my knowledge, the orange box Sears detergent is sold in-store only, any more. I may be misinformed.

Lawrence/Maytagbear
 
I am still a big fan of Viva, even though the phosphates have been taken out. No big deal as I add my own phosphates.

Ross
 
Orange box Ultra plus IS only sold in store now.

the difference between orange box and green box. is Green is not to be used with bleach.. Orange box says on the box it is fine. Green box has more enzymes but I have found the green box does not perform as well here and cost more. But do have a friend in dallas that likes the green box better. I think the scent is a bit different also. Again there are too many things that effect detergent functions to say one is better than another. One brand may work better in one place than the other brand.
 
But with the enzyme formula, couldn't you just wait to add bleach in the last 4 minutes of the wash after the enzymes have had time to work? Kenmore washers that had a bleach dispenser always waited until after optical brighteners and or enzymes had a chance to work before deactivating them with the bleach.

Does Oxi-Clean deactivate enzymes as thoroughly as chlorine bleach?
 
Enzymes take time to really work

3 or 4 mins would not make use of them very well. Oyx bleaches do not deactivate enzymes as chlorine bleach does.
 
Enzymes take time to really work

So they would need a long wash like in a FL, not a 10 minute wash like in an older machine.

My 1969 LK combo labeled the Super Wash cycle Enzyme Super Wash which gave things an extra 4 minutes of wash at low water level before adding more water for an additional 12 minutes of washing. Enzymes were big in 69 and Sears was on the bandwagon whether the cycle gave them time to work or not and, better question whether the combo could adequately rinse enzymes products out of clothing or leave you with an itchy rash. The last LK combo had Wrinkle-Guard at the end of the dry cycle. WP used that Wrinkle Guard timer to give you the option of either having the regular 4 minute Super Wash or something like a 30 minute Enzyme Soak with the same resting and tumbling periods of the Wrinkle Guard sequence. Sadly, by then, most of the enzyme pre-soak products of the late 60s had been discontinued due to the itching problem and concern over the amount of phosphates they contained.
 
My Rep tells me

That we need at least 15 mins min. and 20 to 30 would be best for any enzyme product to work as it should. And a water temp should NOT exceed 130 anything much more start to kill them out. We dont have time to pull a 20 or 30 mins wash. In a home setting you should not have any problems. Most of the newer machine run that long and more. That may be one of the reasons why. From the way I understood him 30 mins was the ideal time for wash or soak with a enzyme product that after that time nothing more would be gained.
 

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