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John in a perfect world a lot more machines would be manufactured in the United States. Factories would be like GE's Appliance Park in the 60/70s- raw material going in one end machines coming out the other end. Most everything would be stamped and made in-house. 

 

 

Jerome, I don't know for sure. I know little to nothing about GE's 2025 washers other than what can be gained by online reading.
 
GE is lie after lie

Oh, they are lying. The cheap motor is labelled 0.4 HP. The smaller size when compared to a similar HP rating has me questioning if the motor is even trully rated 0.4 HP or even 0.33 HP for that matter. 

 

Given the fact the capacitor is 60uF leads me to believe the motor is so undersized and so over-driven that it would otherwise not have enough starting torque with a typical value run capacitor found on a similar rated motor unless the run capacitor is significantly oversized. Over-sizing a motor run capacitor to overcome a lack of sufficient starting torque greatly degrades motor efficiency, makes the motor run much hotter, draws more current, and causes the motor to vibrate more due to the uneven (distorted) magnetic field. 

 

In the civilized world outside of GE such a motor would have a high rated start capacitor to achieve the required starting torque and then once up to 80% speed would drop to a lower rated run capacitor to achieve the desired efficiency and life expectancy targets. Which I doubt this motor has or even comes close to.            

 

 

 

Here is the data plate for the WH49X25375. 0.4 HP, 4.6 amps, 60uF capacitor. 

 

 

 

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Now, compare that to the PSC motor from a ~2005 transmission and brake model T top loader. 0.5 HP, 4.5 amps, larger size build and 45uF capacitor.

 

 

 

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They're trying to squeeze every bit of power out of as little iron and copper (or aluminum) as physics will allow for the short noisy life of this motor. Partially analogous to going from lighting a room with a 60 watt light bulb at rated voltage to lighting a room with a 7 watt night light bulb at 250% rated voltage. You might actually equal light output when both bulbs are compared... I say partly because unlike motors light bulbs become more efficient lumens per what as they are over driven.  
 
You know these things have torque multiplying gearboxes right?
You’re slandering a company that has a decent warranty on their motors. Often 10yrs.
This is a non-issue.
You hear more about bearing, suspension, shifter failure of these washers than anything about their motors.
 
Plastic is often stronger and better than steel

Hi Jerome, you’re not an engineer you don’t know how things should be made, even Maytag dependable care washers. All had a plastic pinion gear, and the orbital transmission was full of plastic gears. This has nothing to do with the overall durability of a washing machine.

This useless ranting about steel gears is becoming a silly as you’re ranting about the smell of the oil in the transmissions. It has nothing to do with the reliability of a washing machine.

John L
 
Jerome, if you really want to know what has to do with the reliability of a washer, it’s the tub seals and hoses, timer, outer tub. I’ve been through my Whirlpool countless times and have seen it all, John has as well.

Even though me a John disagree heavily on a majority of things, I’ll side with him on that one.
 
Jerome, why do you keep on dwelling on the same thing over and over? You can’t seem to put certain things to rest. You seem hell-bent on GE, but in my book, GE never seemed to ‘get it’ in the laundry appliance department. Their Filter Flo washers had a transmission that held two quarts of oil which could either spill onto the floor once the brake mechanism punched a hill on the side of the transmission, or the top of the transmission corroded away and let the oil mix in with whatever was being washed making a BIG MESS. Also used quite a bit of water (may sound contradictory from me) and the washing and rinsing performance wasn’t any better than a Whirlpool belt dive or a Maytag.

Whirlpool and Maytag (the Maytag in Newton Iowa that was) had many more years of experience with building laundry appliances, explains why they could run for a number of years with only needed general repairs and maintenance done. Of course, both Whirlpool and Maytag had duds over the years, but quickly learned and made changes quickly in the 60’s 70’s and 80’s era. GE just kept convincing themselves and their customers that the GE FF washers were fine the way they were, but had serious design flaws. The machines that were successors to the FF machines may have been an improvement, but still had issues with the transmissions giving up the ghost early on. My friend Richard (speedqueen) once knew someone who had one of those GEs that didn’t do more than 400 loads of laundry before its transmission locked up. Just more proof GE never seemed to ‘get it’ in regards to laundry appliances.
 
My Kenmore 90 Series DD top loader, which uses plastic gears, has never had a problem in it's entire lifespan from what I recall. I don't think it's ever been tuned up either. Our 80's GE Filter-Flo, which we left behind when we sold our first cabin back in 2003, has since been replaced with a used Kenmore DD (I saw pictures through Vrbo). If GE brought back the Filter-Flo and/or even my favorite model from their line, I'd still buy a used DD over either of those two. Hearing all these problems the Filter-Flos had and even experiencing using my favorite GE top loader isn't enough to convince me to switch over from a DD which is still to this day the best top loader I've ever used.
 
commercial environment

There's no way you'll EVER see a commercial washer with plastic gears with the exception of Maytag.
Why do you think Speed Queen uses all metal gears in their transmissions? They can withstand years and years of abusive use. I'm sure chetlaham can testify to these. This is especially true for today's VMW so-called commercial that uses cheap plastic parts. As for GE, one thing I didn't like about their model t's was that they shook violently during agitation on full loads that you'd thought they'd break apart and that awful noise it made during agitation. That washer sounded like it was dying and overworked. Oh, and as for the Maytag "commercial" washer made by Whirlpool, you could hear the machine straining to turn over anything, especially their so-called "commercial "technology". A Speed Queen consumer or fan would understand that plastics do not do well in laundry, especially with all of that wear and tear and heat it generates. If it were steel, it would have no issues. All my life, I've had washers that were top loading and had metal gears in them. And these were GE! GE tried that trick with the model T on the commercial side. It didn't work out too well. Did it? Absolutely not.[this post was last edited: 3/29/2025-02:13]
 
“There’s no way you’ll EVER see a commercial washer with plastic gears with the exception of Maytag”

The Maytag orbital machines had all plastic gears inside the transmission, the transmission was identical to residential models, some with the Whirlpool direct drive coin op machines.

You really do need to give it a rest, Jerome. You keep on repeatedly going on and on over the same thing, it’s essentially just beating on a dead horse at this point.

Jerome even kept spamming the comments section on my YouTube videos back in 2020, still does from time to time. Tried explaining that I had limited storage on my devices and couldn’t record a full 30+ minute video, but Jerome insisted on bugging me anyways.

Jerome keeps on going about the oil used in GE and Whirlpool transmissions, we’ve explained it’s 60 weight non-detergent oil, but Jerome keeps on insisting it’s something else entirely different.

I’m about to take a long, long break from the site and all social media if these shenanigans and insanity continues from Jerome. Really beginning to get obnoxious and annoying at this point.
 
Ideal Modern Washing Machine In 2025

Jerome, this is how I am envisioning the ideal residential washer in 2025. Push button water level with metal dome pressure switch, push button fabric care, colored lighted cycle indicators, pre-wash and pre-soak cycles. Dual action agitator, white porcelain on steal tub, scratch resistant porcelain top, cool running 1 HP motor, clutch, brake, all metal gear transmission, no lid lock, porcelain on steal outer tub, angled fill flume. 

 

 

Water temps are realistic no nonsense as follows- White Cottons is hot/warm ; Colored Cottons is warm/warm ; Whites Press Care is hot/cold ; Colors Press Care is warm/cold ; Delicates is cold/cold ;  Knits is cold/warm.

 

I am still debating on what to call the knits cycle, but thats the least of my worries LOL. 

 

 

Lights are as follows. On-In use colored orange is parallel to the timer motor circuit. Timer motor runs, On - In use lights up. Cycle complete colored red illuminates when timer switch 02-M drops open from timer contact 02-T and falls into cycle complete lamp contact 02-B at the end of the last minute of the cycle. Filling or soaking colored pink lights up when the machine is either filling or in a soak period. Wash colored blue lights up when the machine is agitating in either the pre-wash, soak or main wash periods of the cycle. Rinsing lamp colored green lights up at the start of the first spin after wash and continues to do so when spray rinsing or agitating in a deep rinse. The rinsing light acts as a demarcation point between wash agitation and everything thereafter. Spinning lamp colored yellow illuminates at the start of spin after the deep rinse or after the last spray rinse is complete.          

 

 

 

 

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Ok, Jerome you are in for a ride, so hold on lol. There are three versions of this machine with only slight differences in the control panel wording.

 

 

First is a single speed model with a 4 pole 1650 RPM motor. All cycle times and functions are identical. The only thing the fabric type switch does is control the wash and rinse water temperatures. That is it. As a result, delicate is relabeled to bright colors and knits to hang dry to reflect the fact there is no real delicate cycle on this machine. Permanent Press is called whites press care or sheets and colors press care or easy care or casuals in that other than a cold spray, there is no genuine half tub drain or slow / shortened spin. Not that calling it press care would be truly deceptive, there are many machines out there today that call a 10 second spray with a 6 minute high speed spin identical to the heavy cycle cycle a full blown permanent press cycle. I have yet to see anyone notice. I have included a wiring diagram of this one speed machine in that it is relatively simple and straightforward as to what is going on behind the knobs.      

 

 

Second model is also a single speed model model with the same 4 pole motor. The difference here is the fabric type switch modifies the length of the wash and spin cycles in addition to the water temps. For example, Heavy/white cottons/towels would agitate for a full 14 minutes with a final spin of 6 minutes. Colors/Normal would agitate for 5 minutes, soak 4 minutes, agitate for 5 minutes and then have a final 6 minute spin. Permanent Press would agitate for 5 minutes, soak 4 minutes, agitate for 5 minutes and have a 2 minute final spin. There would also be a cold cool down spray that would begin when the pressure switch resets and the whole spin sequence would be shortened as a whole. Delicate would agitate for 1 minute, soak 5 minutes, agitate 2 minutes, soak 5 minutes and then agitate 1 minute, spins shortened, final spin would be 3 minutes. 

 

The best way I can describe this model as a rip off of the Maytag A407. 

 

 

Third model has a 3 speed motor with a 4 pole winding, a 6 pole winding and a third 8 pole winding. 1650 rpm / 1075 rpm / 800 rpm ; fast, medium, low. Cycle times are the same, the only difference is the fabric switch alters the motor speeds. For example, Heavy Duty would be fast/fast the entire cycle. Normal would use some fast and some medium agitation and all spins would be high. Permanent press would use some high some medium agitation but all spins would be medium speed. Knits and Delicate would agitate only at medium speed and spin only at medium speed. Handwash would agitate only at low speed and spin for 2 minutes at medium speed at the start of drain then switch to slow speed spinning. Permanent press does a cold spray at the moment the pressure switch resets. I can't imagine a half a tub drain being relevant to modern fabrics possessing a permanent press label. 

 

 

The reason for the different makes is that it gives users to option of having a simpler model with less that can go wrong for their needs, ie if a user does not need hand-wash they can buy a the first model machine that lets them save energy on their cottons while being well rinsed and comfortable to handle with a hang dry cycle. 

 

The programmed cycle concept lets users push buttons based on the fabric type and soil rather than having to translate to temps, time, speed, ect.

 

Finally, all programed cycle washers I have in mind technically have only a single cycle timer. Even those with a prewash option. There are no 5 or more separate cycles doing what the programmed buttons do. That means fewer increments or faster rotation time on the timer, with more or all 7.5 degree increments on incremental advance timers. There is less to go wrong, and less chance of the timer stall out / contacts not making.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   
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