Here's the '81 in my "wing-it" load. I stood there and watched the entire load - very fun. The machine sounds great. Did I say it works well?
Big brother / Little brother 200 series 1981/1982 Kenmores...almost twins!
- Thread starter kenmoreguy64
- Start date
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I did say the machine works great, didn't I?
YUP...
Oh well!
YUP...
Oh well!
I am somewhat sure the pump, having been dry for some time and unused, needed to be good and wet with warm water for a bit. Since this machine doesn't recirulate any water during wash, the pump didn't have a mass of water through it until wash drain. It seems to have leaked the residual water in the system during agitation. After that, I didn't notice much more water donated to the floor during rinse and spin. Going to try another full load and see what happens. Machine might need a new pump or further potty training. I hope not...
That's it for now!
Gordon
That's it for now!
Gordon
As these washers age...
Sometimes they just need a pair of Depends when they're brought out of retirement!
Dave
Sometimes they just need a pair of Depends when they're brought out of retirement!
Dave
COOL 81 AND 82 KENMORE BROTHERS
They both look to be very fixable Gordon, maybe I should get Smitty to get more of the SS tubing and we could go into the base-plate rebuilding business. You can either use Por-15 or two part epoxy enamel for the outer tub, if you are using epoxy to fix holes it is better to do this first, but if you like using 100% silicone sealant it is better to use this after painting being sure the paint is very dry. One of the problems with the WP tub kit is that they are never large enough for badly rusted tubs. It is fairly easy to get larger SS washers made and make rubber gaskets to fit them. Also try to find the after market tub bolt kits as they have REAL SS bolts and washers where as the FSP WP kits are cheap plated steel and they will rust.
Gordon did you notice how the base-plate in the 24" machine has that white foam seal on it, this was required by UL so when water would overflow over the tub rings overflow area it wouldn't run under the outer tub and onto the motor and control magnet area and cause shorts.
They both look to be very fixable Gordon, maybe I should get Smitty to get more of the SS tubing and we could go into the base-plate rebuilding business. You can either use Por-15 or two part epoxy enamel for the outer tub, if you are using epoxy to fix holes it is better to do this first, but if you like using 100% silicone sealant it is better to use this after painting being sure the paint is very dry. One of the problems with the WP tub kit is that they are never large enough for badly rusted tubs. It is fairly easy to get larger SS washers made and make rubber gaskets to fit them. Also try to find the after market tub bolt kits as they have REAL SS bolts and washers where as the FSP WP kits are cheap plated steel and they will rust.
Gordon did you notice how the base-plate in the 24" machine has that white foam seal on it, this was required by UL so when water would overflow over the tub rings overflow area it wouldn't run under the outer tub and onto the motor and control magnet area and cause shorts.
Hi John,
I have always liked the two-part epoxy. I had some learning experiences with it at first, but it seems to work really well when done properly. This centerpost will be my first exposure to POR-15, but I have at least one more that I know needs my attention, so I may as well start now.
What's funny is these 24-inch tubs have some contours in them that prevent using the tub-repair kit. Naturally, the only tub mounting hole in the tub which won't accomodate a standard or aftermarket repair kit is the one that rusted. I am thinking about cutting one to the contours of that raised area and see what I get. The machine shop at work may be able to assist in that.
The 1982 24-inch machine reminds me VERY much of the 518. Pristine and apparently very much under-used on the outside, and blammo, the inside is the pits. I think machines that are lightly used but stay wet for many years are canditates for these hidden ugly situations. Actually this 1982 machine was even more surprising than the 518 because normally these would be cosmetically deteriorated and rusty. The combination of the small basket, the straight vane agitator, and the painted top and lid should allow for early rust on edges of the lid, lid well, etc. but there is absolutely no sign of it. You'd think the machine was in a box unused until last year. Obviously not, but we gotta love the desert west's dry air for preserving machines, at least where air can get at them.
I really enjoyed this washer work this weekend. The last washer I worked on in great detail was the 518 John, when we gutted it that Sunday morning in October. That's a long time in between major washer work. The 29-inch machine was fun to use, save for the peeing on the floor. I hadn't used a machine in many years where the 2-port pump is running dry during agitation. This means that when the machine goes into pump-out, a loud wooshing sound occurs, which is not present in other belt-drives which don't have this pump or are re-circulating water during agitate. The woosh scared me so much it made me jump the first time, as I wasn't expecting it.
I'll keep everyone updated with machine progress!
Gordon
I have always liked the two-part epoxy. I had some learning experiences with it at first, but it seems to work really well when done properly. This centerpost will be my first exposure to POR-15, but I have at least one more that I know needs my attention, so I may as well start now.
What's funny is these 24-inch tubs have some contours in them that prevent using the tub-repair kit. Naturally, the only tub mounting hole in the tub which won't accomodate a standard or aftermarket repair kit is the one that rusted. I am thinking about cutting one to the contours of that raised area and see what I get. The machine shop at work may be able to assist in that.
The 1982 24-inch machine reminds me VERY much of the 518. Pristine and apparently very much under-used on the outside, and blammo, the inside is the pits. I think machines that are lightly used but stay wet for many years are canditates for these hidden ugly situations. Actually this 1982 machine was even more surprising than the 518 because normally these would be cosmetically deteriorated and rusty. The combination of the small basket, the straight vane agitator, and the painted top and lid should allow for early rust on edges of the lid, lid well, etc. but there is absolutely no sign of it. You'd think the machine was in a box unused until last year. Obviously not, but we gotta love the desert west's dry air for preserving machines, at least where air can get at them.
I really enjoyed this washer work this weekend. The last washer I worked on in great detail was the 518 John, when we gutted it that Sunday morning in October. That's a long time in between major washer work. The 29-inch machine was fun to use, save for the peeing on the floor. I hadn't used a machine in many years where the 2-port pump is running dry during agitation. This means that when the machine goes into pump-out, a loud wooshing sound occurs, which is not present in other belt-drives which don't have this pump or are re-circulating water during agitate. The woosh scared me so much it made me jump the first time, as I wasn't expecting it.
I'll keep everyone updated with machine progress!
Gordon
A few responses to the folks who replied above....
Thanks for the replies folks,
Scott - yes, surely the Ranger would make it to Michigan, but it holds only two machines easily. Kevin's Ranger, with the same bed, has held three but only by tying them down with the tailgate open. Since having a horrifying but also hysterical mishap last year involving a friend's two new leather chairs and a Charlotte highway, I won't be hauling anything with the tailgate open, not that far anyway. Heck, I was nervous with Kevin while riding as a passenger when we did that in Auburn last December.
Andy - THANK YOU again for everything. And yes, I think I did stumble a little on some recent episode of "stump the master". Don't worry about sending me a problem child - this will make me do a more thorough makeover on this machine, which is a good thing in the long run.
Kevin and Stainfighter - Still working on names. Frick and Frack may be better or more appropriate since they both don't hold water, and 'Frack' on Battlestar Galactica is their version of the F-bomb.
John - Yes, I noticed the white foam strip, but that is present on many 29-inch models too. I did not know that UL required that, but one thing that I have always thought was absolutely STUPID was the big hole in the baseplate, that is directly above the wig-wag, almost as if WP wanted water to drip on it eventually.
Patrick - Thanks. I got the gray POR-15 based on the look in your pictures. Thanks for the confidence builder in your recommendation of it.
Darren - I'm not sure what you mean by 'edging' in the tub cap. If you mean the tub ring, this is definitely a different tub ring, and I have no idea why KM/WP did this as earlier 24-inch machines had plastic tub rings that looked similar to their 29-inch counterparts. Perhaps this was to address splashing? The SV agitators surely are good for splashes. Speaking of strong pumps, I was surprised how much stronger the pump-out flow was in the 29-inch machine vs. a similar machine with a self-cleaning filter. The filter must really slow things down. The wooshing sound when the machine went into drain startled me actually, as this is not something you hear in any of my currently or recently used Kenmores.
I have turned my attention temporarily to a Lady K while I wait for the POR-15 to arrive. I hate leaving a project unfinished, but I will get back on these machines soon. I enjoyed using the large one too much not to. It was just different enough from what I am used to to be fun and a little bit new.
Gordon
Thanks for the replies folks,
Scott - yes, surely the Ranger would make it to Michigan, but it holds only two machines easily. Kevin's Ranger, with the same bed, has held three but only by tying them down with the tailgate open. Since having a horrifying but also hysterical mishap last year involving a friend's two new leather chairs and a Charlotte highway, I won't be hauling anything with the tailgate open, not that far anyway. Heck, I was nervous with Kevin while riding as a passenger when we did that in Auburn last December.
Andy - THANK YOU again for everything. And yes, I think I did stumble a little on some recent episode of "stump the master". Don't worry about sending me a problem child - this will make me do a more thorough makeover on this machine, which is a good thing in the long run.
Kevin and Stainfighter - Still working on names. Frick and Frack may be better or more appropriate since they both don't hold water, and 'Frack' on Battlestar Galactica is their version of the F-bomb.
John - Yes, I noticed the white foam strip, but that is present on many 29-inch models too. I did not know that UL required that, but one thing that I have always thought was absolutely STUPID was the big hole in the baseplate, that is directly above the wig-wag, almost as if WP wanted water to drip on it eventually.
Patrick - Thanks. I got the gray POR-15 based on the look in your pictures. Thanks for the confidence builder in your recommendation of it.
Darren - I'm not sure what you mean by 'edging' in the tub cap. If you mean the tub ring, this is definitely a different tub ring, and I have no idea why KM/WP did this as earlier 24-inch machines had plastic tub rings that looked similar to their 29-inch counterparts. Perhaps this was to address splashing? The SV agitators surely are good for splashes. Speaking of strong pumps, I was surprised how much stronger the pump-out flow was in the 29-inch machine vs. a similar machine with a self-cleaning filter. The filter must really slow things down. The wooshing sound when the machine went into drain startled me actually, as this is not something you hear in any of my currently or recently used Kenmores.
I have turned my attention temporarily to a Lady K while I wait for the POR-15 to arrive. I hate leaving a project unfinished, but I will get back on these machines soon. I enjoyed using the large one too much not to. It was just different enough from what I am used to to be fun and a little bit new.
Gordon
Belt Drive pump out Force
Yes Gordon the SC filters do slow down the pump out rate of BD machines and the Two-Way valve used on the Suds-Saver models slows down the pump out even more.
Yes Gordon the SC filters do slow down the pump out rate of BD machines and the Two-Way valve used on the Suds-Saver models slows down the pump out even more.
mistereric
Well-known member
Did the plastic control panel start out ivory, or was it white to match the machine itself?
Eric -
These panels started out in 1974 with this ivory color. The two in my garage have both yellowed a little bit (you can tell under the timer knobs) but this is very common with plastic, especially if under flourescent lights. This is actually the same color as used in the white 1972-1975 plastic top machines which have the 'hump' in them for the controls which rise up out of the console vertically.
Initially these panels had raised embossments in the "Kenmore" name box on the left which said "Kenmore" on one line and "Heavy Duty" underneath. This then usually got a coat of paint to make the lettering stand out. Later, the wording was hot-stamped as mine are.
In 1981, a dark walnut color was introduced, and was used in great volume for several years on a few much more MOL models as compared to mine, while others remained ivory. This panel had a woodgrain insert where mine have the ebony insert.
During the DD days, only 24-inch machines were manufactured with this panel, as no corresponding 27-inch machines had them. That is because Kenmore, with their 1983 line, changed their marketing philosophy with models in that true BOLs were standard or "regular" capacity only, and the real large capacity machines were at least 60-series and better, and thus they had the metal control panels. There were no more double lines with most models being available in two or three sizes.
Later in the DD evolution, this panel color became a matching white to match the cabinets, and the walnut was re-invented as well. Toward the end, there was an ugly 'baby puke orange/brown' color for the very BOL model. I think those were ugly on purpose to deter some people from buying them in favor of the much prettier and more expensive two cycle models.
Gordon
These panels started out in 1974 with this ivory color. The two in my garage have both yellowed a little bit (you can tell under the timer knobs) but this is very common with plastic, especially if under flourescent lights. This is actually the same color as used in the white 1972-1975 plastic top machines which have the 'hump' in them for the controls which rise up out of the console vertically.
Initially these panels had raised embossments in the "Kenmore" name box on the left which said "Kenmore" on one line and "Heavy Duty" underneath. This then usually got a coat of paint to make the lettering stand out. Later, the wording was hot-stamped as mine are.
In 1981, a dark walnut color was introduced, and was used in great volume for several years on a few much more MOL models as compared to mine, while others remained ivory. This panel had a woodgrain insert where mine have the ebony insert.
During the DD days, only 24-inch machines were manufactured with this panel, as no corresponding 27-inch machines had them. That is because Kenmore, with their 1983 line, changed their marketing philosophy with models in that true BOLs were standard or "regular" capacity only, and the real large capacity machines were at least 60-series and better, and thus they had the metal control panels. There were no more double lines with most models being available in two or three sizes.
Later in the DD evolution, this panel color became a matching white to match the cabinets, and the walnut was re-invented as well. Toward the end, there was an ugly 'baby puke orange/brown' color for the very BOL model. I think those were ugly on purpose to deter some people from buying them in favor of the much prettier and more expensive two cycle models.
Gordon
Update:
I painted the centerpost today with POR-15 (color gray) and I painted the rust on the baseplate as well. Will let it dry, then re-install the tub, and epoxy putty the hole(s).
Keep your fingers crossed!
Gordon
I painted the centerpost today with POR-15 (color gray) and I painted the rust on the baseplate as well. Will let it dry, then re-install the tub, and epoxy putty the hole(s).
Keep your fingers crossed!
Gordon
I POR-15ed a Kenmore BD today too.
1983 70 Series. I hope your experience is a good one.
Fingers crossed,
Dave
PS: The shim washers fixed the spin problem I was having on mine.
1983 70 Series. I hope your experience is a good one.
Fingers crossed,
Dave
PS: The shim washers fixed the spin problem I was having on mine.
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