Calypso Number Two

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

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Tub & basket were cleaned with a scrub brush and solution of ..... Cheer TrueFit liquid, LOL. I'm kinda burned-out on that scent.

Steve, models are GVW9959KQ1 (white machine) and GVW9959KL0 (platinum machine).

Following the instructions for the u-joint kit .... says to snug the spanner nut to finger-tight, then whack it 1 to 1-1/4 turns more. Well, I couldn't get it but 3/4 turn further. Maybe my finger-tight was too snug?? I kept whacking on it, and suddenly the ENTIRE u-joint and boot turned so I *immediately* quit. I'm a'feared I got it too tight and it'll not come apart again if needed. I ran a wire brush on the hub and o-ring groove. The surface is somewhat rough and there are a couple pits on the outside edge of the groove, so I hope it'll seal OK!
 
If anyone wants a "New Calypso" go to a REX appliance center. I understand they STILL have some pairs. I am going get one today, but will have to look a little harder for the dryer.

Steve
 
Per comments I posted in Jackson's "Calypso, Repair in Progress" thread, I've run into trouble. My basket has loosened from its hub. Excessive oscillation during spin and the basket is a bit off-kilter in the tub. The spanner nut wouldn't come off, the entire hub/u-joint assembly turns.

I got the spanner nut off now, cut in three pieces.

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Awaiting arrival of a new basket. Everything else should be ready to go -- cleaned, rust-treated, new rear legs, new recirculation tube, added a *toggleswitch* to allow for either normal lid switch operation or bypass. I did pull, clean, and reinstall the rubber splash guard with the tie-strap remaining intact. Can't be sure of full machine operation until the first cycle is run, but diagnostic routines indicate the water valves seem OK, the pump runs, and the motor runs for nutate and spin.

Hopefully the dryer won't be as big a project.
 
Ok took the plunge and bought a set. NIB, and have not got them home yet. Will try to trip the lid switch in one fell swoop. Thanks Glenn for the information a few weeks ago. I have emailed Greg(gansky1 aka Mechanical Mandy) with reference to how he did his.

Any more suggestions is welcome. Call me guys [email protected]
 
Dremel-type power tool with a thin cutting wheel. Make several cuts to relieve the holding torque of the nut. Be aware that the lower flange of the spanner nut is "countersunk" into the top of the u-joint so isn't accessible for cutting completely through without cutting into the u-joint itself. Use a large screwdriver hammered and twisting into the cuts to help crack the nut, and/or use the spanner wrench.

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Here's what I did to "permanently" bypass the lid switch.

Added an on/off toggleswitch mounted to the right console endcap. Connected into the lid switch wiring harness plug, it bypasses the lid switch when ON, or allows normal lid switch operation when OFF.

A ground wire should perhaps be added to the switch in case of static discharge. The pink and tan wires lead directly to the machine control board.

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Thanks Glenn, I have a Dremel and I just bought some metal cutting disks for it (closet remodel). I'm going to try to spend some time on it tomorrow. I have a new u-joint, so if I damage that one, it is no big deal.

When I took the inner wash plate off earlier, I used the white gasket that came with the u-joint kit. Do you think it may be reusable, or should I try to "make" another one. Repair Cliniic told me that you can't buy that gasket outside of the u-joint kit.
 
All this gasket and grommet seal stuff isn't very clear. Tech info says the six grommets and pink o-ring MUST be replaced whenever they're disturbed (the pink o-ring doesn't come into play unless the u-joint is pulled). Nothing references the inner wash plate's foam gasket. Since it is not included with the grommet/o-ring seal kit, I'd *assume* it can be re-used unless it's torn or otherwise in unusable condition. Surely Whirlpool doesn't intend for the u-joint to be replaced (in order to get a new foam gasket) *every* time the mechanism is opened, like for retrieving a stray sock or object under the wash plate. Or do they?? Where would one find a suitable foam sheet to make a gasket?
 
Got the information Glenn. You are great. I think your invention of the "New Lid" switch is great. I will do the same before the first wash ever occurs.

Steve
 
I was wondering the same thing:
"All this gasket and grommet seal stuff isn't very clear. Tech info says the six grommets and pink o-ring MUST be replaced whenever they're disturbed (the pink o-ring doesn't come into play unless the u-joint is pulled). Nothing references the inner wash plate's foam gasket. Since it is not included with the grommet/o-ring seal kit, I'd *assume* it can be re-used unless it's torn or otherwise in unusable condition. Surely Whirlpool doesn't intend for the u-joint to be replaced (in order to get a new foam gasket) *every* time the mechanism is opened, like for retrieving a stray sock or object under the wash plate. Or do they?? Where would one find a suitable foam sheet to make a gasket?" -DADoES

What do I do next time my wife reports a missing sock? Where do I get a new rubber seal for the main wash plate? The first time we discovered the Calypso's ability to hide articles under the wash plate was when my wife said the bathroom rug was missing. That's a 2'x3' rubber backed thick pile loop rug! I removed the wash plate and my eyes grew as big as pie plates. I couldn't believe the rug was under the wash plate.

Now, with a 5 month old child what do I do when his little tiny socks get sucked under the plate? I'll be afraid to take it loose for fear that I won't get it back water tight.
 
A seal kit (part # 285842) consisting of the six rubber grommets (that sit atop the u-joint *under* the outer wash plate) and the pink o-ring that goes on the basket hub *under* the u-joint) is available at parts suppliers. It does NOT include a foam gasket, however. The o-ring doesn't come into play unless the u-joint is removed, which of course requires removing the spanner nut (which isn't necessary to retrieve a rug). And the seal kit at $20 is about double the cost it should be!

Probably the best you can do is have a seal kit on hand for the six grommets, replace them but re-use the foam gasket (or try making a gasket if you can find suitable material).

The gasket around the edge of the *outer* wash plate is not separately replaceable, that would require a new outer wash plate.

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