Calypso!!!!!!!!! questions and pics

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jaxsunst

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Sep 8, 2004
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I went to get the Calypso today. When I looked at it before the lady at the shop told me that they were going to repair it and it would be $100. When I got there today the guy told me that he wasn't going to bother repairing it and was either going to part it or scrap it. He said I could have it for $20. He said that it needed a "u-joint". Also, it has no rust anywhere. Just a really big scratch that I put on it getting out of my wife's mini-van.

I got it home, and hooked it up and ran some towels on "Bulky Items" with the extended spin option. It ran perfect except during the final spin it did make a few knocking noises. So, here are my questions...

1. How much does a u-joint cost, and how difficult is it to install?
2. Will I damage it by running it as is until I get the repair done?
3. How do I defeat the lid switch?
4. How do you get the front access panel off? I assume it just pops off, but I do not want to damage it.

Here are the pics....

7-9-2007-20-38-36--jaxsunst.jpg
 
Here is the dryer. The guy told me that if he found a dryer matching the Calypso, he would call me. He is also watching out for GM Frigidaires :-)

7-9-2007-21-15-58--jaxsunst.jpg
 
If the machine needs a u-joint, it also most likely needs a leveler, too. Both parts come with the necessary seals/gaskets. Not sure of the pricing, but figure in the $200 area for both. You will also need a spanning wrench to get the tub bolt out so you can remove the u-joint. I was fortunate to get both parts (leveler and u-joint) from the Sears parts store for $107, but I think the price was a mistake on their part.

If you reach into the machine and try to lift the wash plate by the center hub, and the plate is loose (it moves up and down), that's a sure sign that it needs a leveler/u-joint assembly. You would most likely hear the noise while the machine is washing. (btw...for towels, use the normal cycle. Bulky items does not give you the high speed spin, only medium, which is similar to what your DD Kenmore gave you. You'll see the difference immediately.)

Your model number should be located under the rear of the lid, on the top cover of the machine.

I have a copy of the Calypso service manual. If you send me your e-mail address, I can send it to you in .pdf format. It's a very good manual. I can also talk you through the whole repair.
 
Oh, the top of the machine is removed the same way most Kenmore washers are. Just locate the two tabs under the machine's top, between the top and the front panel, and slide a strong, flat bladed object between the machine's top and front panel directly into the clip, until the clip disengages and frees the top. You can then lift the entire top up and lean it against a wall. If you peek between the opening between the top and front panel, you can actually see the two clips with a flashlight.
 
Yours is a Kenmore. Mine is a Whirly.

On mine, there's a medallion insert at the front of the top panel. Pry it out carefully, remove a screw. Use a putty knife (or just pull forward) to release the top from the hold-down clips. There are then four screws to remove the front panel.

You don't have a medallion ... so it may just be a matter of locating and releasing the two hold-down clips.

Once you raise the top, and pull the front panel, and pull the bottom panel, you may find some rust. Pictures, please!!

There may also be a tech info sheet inside the front panel.

The lid switch can't be manually tricked very easily. It's hidden under the top panel, triggered by the lid hinge. Also, the machine won't start a new cycle until the lid is opened and closed, which is sensed via the lid switch. What I did is remove the rear cover on the control panel, remove the harness plug for the lid switch and place a jumper wire in the plug. Either remove and replace the jumper to "break" the lid switch circuit for running the next cycle .... or unplug the machine for 20 seconds or so to kill the power and reset the circuit boards.

AndrewInOrlando replaced his leveler and u-joint recently, I'm sure he'll come along and give you some pointers. :-)

You can find a service manual, Whirly-style, at http://www.servicematters.com, Technical Reference section, Technical Library, Job Aids, Laundry Products, 2nd page, document L-67
 
I'm not sure about this, and Glenn might know more about it, but I think the lid switch is impossible to permanently defeat as it is used as a reset for the controller once the cycle is finished. If you cannot open the lid and, as such, the switch, the machine will not reset, and you will not be able to start a new cycle. You will get an "L5" error.

If you're able to life the top of the machine up, you'll see the lid switch at the right rear of the lid and get an idea as to how you might "trick" it. I manually bypass it by sticking my hand in there whenever I want to watch the action.
 
Gotta be real careful disassembling and reassembling the machine. The inner and outer wash plates are plastic, and although they are very well made, you don't want to crack them where they screw into the u-joint. I really recommend a torque wrench to tighten the screws down. Both parts are very expensive. The inner plate is the center hub, the outer plate is the bottom wash plate that nutates as the machine washes.
 
A more permanent way around the lid switch is to locate the two wires running to it from inside the control panel. Cut and splice them together to bypass the switch ... but also include a pushbutton momentary-contact (normally closed) or toggle switch for resetting the circuit so the controller board thinks the lid has been opened. You can drill a hole in the side panel of the console and mount the switch there. I haven't done that, being as it's just as easy to remove/replace the jumper wire or pull the power plug.
 
I will try to get some interior works shots for you. I was happy with the results from the first load. We had a water heater mal-function that put about an inch of water in my laundry room. Home Shield came out today and installed a new water heater, but they left a mess. I washed the nasty towels from that, and they came out perfect.
 
Jax -

Will Home Shield repair the Calypso under your home warranty? Would there be a deductible for that?

Your biggest issue will be finding a repair tech that knows what the hell he's doing. I wouldn't let a novice touch that machine if he had never worked on one before. It's completely different inside from any other washer out there.

The actual repair is not hard, but it will take a couple of hours to complete, at least, with the right tools.
 
Home Shield charges a $55 deductible per call, not per repair. If I have 10 things wrong, I only have to pay once. My contract says that the appliance has to be installed and working correctly at the beginning of my contract (which renews in two months). They repaired the DD about 6 months ago, so it is on file.

I was thinking about attempting the repair myself. I can do anything if I have good directions. This past winter, I taught myself how to do several car repairs, so I should be able to repair a washer with instruction (I hope).
 
Jackson glad you went out and bought it. $20.00 phewww, most wasted more than that on lotto tickets 07-07-07
 
Well, this is a fairly straighforward repair; it just takes time and patience as there are a lot of steps to doing it. And while ya got it apart, ya gotta play! And there are other things you should check on too.
 
Still running trials on the machine. It runs fine on cycles with a med or slow spin. It makes a mild knocking noise. On fast spin cycles, it will attempt to get to full speed and give an Out of balance error. I watched it run with the lid off, the tub appears to move around a lot. The knocking is the funnel for the detergent dispensor hitting the side. It does agitate (or the Calypso version of agitate) smoothly with no knocking or other noises.

I have misplaced the usb cable for my video camera. As soon as I find it, or get another one, I will post video.

I'm going out of town this weekend, so it will probably be next week before I get to dig into more.
 
OK, I'm trying to get the front off. There are hex screws. I have tried 4 different sets of hex screw drivers that I have and none of them work, what is the secret?

There is a Sears service center near my office, I'm going to got here today and price some parts.
 
There should be 2 or 4 screws at the top of the machine, once you pry open the clips that hold the top to the front and lift the top of the machine, separating it from the front cover. They are located on top of the front panel at each end. I believe they are philips head screws.
 
There are 4 indented hex screws. According to the Sears parts list they are "8-18 x 1/2". I have tried 2 sets of wrenches (one english, one metric) and three sets of allen wrenchs. They appear to be between sizes.

I called Sears Repair center, I might as well been talking to my cat. Well, talking to my cat is better, at least he looks like he is interested. These were the rudest, most unhelpful people I have ever talked to. I asked to speak to the manager, and we the rudest of them all.
 
Forgot to mention. Looking from the top, I think I have identified the offending strut. The one on the front left appears to stick out further than the others. Just an observation.
 
Jax-

THere's no real way to tell until you get the front panel off. I remembered that mine uses phillips head screws at the panel top because I used my electric screwdriver to get them off. Don't know what size you need, but if you have a parts center nearby, they sure should. Also, look on www.repairclinic.com. THey have many many diagrams of every machine. Put in your model number and start searching. They will have exploded views of just about every part of the machine that they sell. The panel view should tell you the size of the screws. That might help.
 
Repair clinic had the screw listed. They also have the tool needed to remove it in stock. I ordered the tool, should be here in a couple of days.

Just as well, I'm going out of town this weekend and I will not be able to work on it anyway.

Thank you so much.
 
Jackson, are the front panel screws on your Kenmore perhaps Torx or square-drive?? My Whirly has four Philips screws as Andrew describes.

I'm thinking the tool you ordered from RepairClinic is for the basket spanner nut, not the front panel.

Another place to look for parts is Sears Parts Online. They have diagrams for most brands/models.

http://www3.sears.com
 

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