Can this roll around KitchenAid dishwasher be turned into a built-in unit?

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frogkid11

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 14, 2015
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72
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Richmond, Va
Hi everyone,
I am trying to finish restoring my kitchen to its original glory with vintage appliances and need to find the dishwasher. Can anyone tell if this vintage KitchenAid unit can be converted from a roll around to a built-in under counter unit? I do not have room for a stand alone unit so if this cannot be converted, then I need to keep looking - but the price on this unit is really good, it's close by, and is currently being used in very good working order. Thanks for helping me out!!

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It can be built in

You might need to fashion your own "L" brackets to hold the machine in place under the counter.  There are holes on the left and right area of the "fin" that runs across the top front section of the exterior.  One end of each bracket is fastened to those holes with a sheet metal screw, and the other end screws into the bottom of the counter top.  These brackets are often missing even on used built-in dishwashers, but who knows -- maybe they're used to secure the butcher block top on portables.

 

I don't know if portables came with leveling feet, which are included on built-in units.  Others here will know for sure.
 
You may need a conversion kit.

<span style="font-family: verdana,geneva;">The machine in the picture is a 56 Series Portable.  I have a 57 Series portable that does require a conversion kit.  When I purchased mine the wheels and bottom portion was damaged in shipping.  I wanted to use it a built in anyway so I wasn't too concerned but when I got under the covers I discovered it couldn't be converted without the kit.  I just don't know if the 56 and 57 models were the same in this regard.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: verdana,geneva;">Unfortunately its not just a matter of the leveling feet.  The machine does not have the legs to screw the feet into.  They are included in the kit.  I attached a copy of the instructions and it states what is included in the kit.</span>

 

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<span style="font-family: verdana,geneva;">I ended up making a cart for mine as seen in the picture.  Now if yours is like mine you could remove the top and make a smaller cart than mine and possibly still get it under the counter and anchored.  Mine as is would go under the counter without the butcher block top if I had made that cart smaller.  I think the wheels I bought were 1 1/2" but you could get smaller ones and you'd have to get creative to level the machine once it's installed.  </span>

 

<span style="font-family: verdana,geneva;">This wouldn't be an impossible task but it might be more than you want to get into if you have other options.</span>

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Ralph, thanks for the clarification.

 

I think frogkid would be better off with a later model if they're easier to build in.  KitchenAids are timeless in their design and vintage machines still command respect.  It would be easy to get away with a later model that would complement a retro look, and starting with the 18 series the machines have an upper wash arm, which makes for carefree loading.
 
This is a convertible portable. All you have to do to make it a permanently installed machine is remove the unicouple, the power cord and the wheels. You connect a regular fill and drain line and run the power conduit to the junction box at the front of the machine and attach the wires. There are leveling feet screwed up into the corners of the machine. The big problem is that you have to make a hole in the side of the cabinet on the side where your plumbing and electrical connections are going UNLESS you can run them through the floor which is what I did for the 11 years that my KDS58 was builtin in my townhouse across from the sink. When I moved, we just lifted it up and made it a convertible portable again with a virgo intacto cabinet.
 
I saw the lady that bought my townhouse tonight at a garden party and the KDI58 that we installed in the house before I sold it is still working.

I should clarify about the power cord. You do not have to remove it. You just disconnect it from the junction box in the machine.
 
I wish they would have done all that with the 57 Series.

<span style="font-family: verdana,geneva;">I was really eager to build it in but without the legs it would be impossible.  When you take the base off the bottom the motor extends beyond the end of the side panel so you have to set it on something which is why I made the cart.</span>
 
I know you know a lot about these machines.

<span style="font-family: verdana,geneva;">The only thing I can figure out is we are talking about two different machines.  I have a KDI-57.  I have been under the machine and I can assure you there are no legs.  The documentation on the conversion kit clearly states it includes the legs and shows pictures of how and where to attach them.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: verdana,geneva;">The model he was looking at is a 16 series so I don't know if his is the same as mine or not but the bottom of his looks the same as mine.  It seems like a moot point since he is looking at a Superba Built In.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: verdana,geneva;">If the legs were available separately I sure wish  I could find a set.  I didn't notice them on the parts lists I have.</span>

 

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<span style="font-family: verdana,geneva;">What model machine are you talking about?</span>

[this post was last edited: 5/4/2015-08:05]
 
Here is another portable unit but it appears to be newer

This portable model appeared a few days ago and I just stumbled upon it. I like that the unit is white so that it matches my other appliances; however, the control panel appears to be much newer than the model pictures in my original posting. Does anyone know if this model would be a better investment if it checks out?

 
That's a KDI-21 or 22.  It's at least 15 years newer than the brown one in your original post, but is the same "Imperial" model.

 

We had one for 18 years at our other house.

 

The 21 series and later were produced after Whirlpool bought KitchenAid.  They're still the same design as Hobart used, but if you want a true Hobart you'll have to find an early series 20 or older machine.
 
The 21 used static water heating at the start of the cycle. It filled without circulating the water then heated it before starting circulation and throwing the electrically heated water on the relatively cold dishes, a large waste of energy. In the time while the water was heating and during the first warm wash, the hot water sat in the pipe, cooling before the next fill. After the main wash was a short purge using about 2 quarts of water and then a final rinse. When I had mine, I used to wait with a pitcher of 2 qts. of hot water which I added to the purge after the fill. It helped the rinsing immensely. These machines left detergent residue which hastened the deterioration of the vinyl on the racks and rack rails. In the scrap yards, these were almost universally seen with rust in those areas, a terrible fate for such expensive dishwashers. Stick with the older model.
 
What about the hot water issue?

So I've been reading other posts about these vintage KA machines and I'm trying to understand the various issues concerning the use of the hot water in the cycles. Some folks have said they have to be on hand to add hot water because the machines don't heat up the water adequately or in time for the cycle.

I'm mostly interested in learning about the KDS-56A pictured at the top of the post.

Thanks!
 
As with any dishwasher produced in the US at the time of this machine, you must keep your water heater set to 140F at least. You run hot water at the sink to clear the lines of cool water and make sure that the water coming out of the faucet is 140F minimum before starting the dishwasher on any cycle except rinse & hold. Like other dishwashers with detergent dispensers, this KitchenAid was very ingenious in the way the Pre-Wash and Pre-rinse portions of the cycle (the first two fills) heated up the machine and the load before the main wash which was the third fill so there was no need to heat the main wash, if your hot water was hot enough. Then, after the approximately 8 minute main wash, there are three rinses, the first of which serves to clear the lines of water that cooled during the wash. You might also want to put pipe insulation on your hot water pipes. The rinses are short, like the pre-wash and pre-rinse to keep hot water moving through the pipes without cooling. If you do not have adequate hot water supplies or if your hot water is not set to at least 140F, do not acquire a vintage dishwasher. All of the operating instructions stress that the INCOMING hot water has to be 140 to 160F. There is no getting around that. You cannot make use of low-temperature enzyme detergents because the wash cycle is not long enough to give the enzymes time to work on the food soil.

If you get this or any other vintage dishwasher, you might want to purchase some insulation and apply it to the tub to not only reduce sound, but hold in the heat better.
 
I have the imperial only in the 17 series.

<span style="font-family: verdana,geneva;">I would agree 100% with Tomturbomatic.  I keep my water at 140 and run it before I start the machine.  I have always wondered if it was hot enough and usually by the main wash I can open the door and steam comes barreling out.  When the fan kicks on after the last rinse I get a fair amount of steam out of the machine so I'm confident my water is hot enough.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: verdana,geneva;">I have been happy with the performance.  I only use powdered detergent and find the Finish works better for me than some of the others but on that you will likely get as many recommendations as you get replies :).</span>

 

<span style="font-family: verdana,geneva;">If it were me I wouldn't hesitate getting a vintage machine like this as long as you keep your water hot.  The first one you posted up above really looks like a nice machine.</span>
 

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