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I wonder if I'm the only one here who doesn't have central heating/AC? My house originally used unvented gas heaters in the rooms but now I use the much safer electric radiators when heat is needed. AC is from window units. There was never any kind of central furnace installed.

To me it would be such luxury to have any type of whole house heating/cooling system!
 
HI Chad, My old house is cooled by Window units as the reason there is no central air and heat is because the roof is very low structure and it would cost an arm and a leg to install, but in a couple of years I'm going to buy something new and it will have central air and heat
 
Tweak them to feel good.

I was amazed that parts of California have a very mediterranean-like climate and don't need cental climate control either.

Thank you for the *tweak* info. Must try that.
Does anyone know what the gas/electric slide switch in this brand of thermostat does?

In a gas furnace, an internal (to the furnace)thermostat starts and stops the main fan to prevent circulatiing cold air, and to distribute the heat at the end of the burner cycle, just after the burner comes off. What does an electric furnace do, and why is this setting needed?

BTW=> A heat-pump (cenral-air condtiner running backwards that extracts heat from outdoor air, concentrates it and sends it indoors), when heating, produces air that is cooler than body temp, so it can feel cool/cold, even though heat is being added. A fossil-fuel (gas or oil) furnace produces much warmer temps and does produce a warm-feeling airstream.
 
Wow Jason the Kitchen looks great! What only space reserved for one dishwasher? You'll have need to have a Roto-rack in there for sure! Plus some fun vintage portables to roll up to the sink.
 
Rich,

Understood. Thank you.

In this case by efficiency I meant that atmospheric temperatures remain above (it used to be) 40*F so that the unit will run most of the time, and expensive supplemental heat (often straight resistance electric (read: very costly almost everywhere)) does not have to run.

[Where straight resistance electric is basically a coil like in a toaster].
 
Nice kitchen decor, Jason

It hints at the 50's with the yellow, blue and the cabinetry, although thoroughly modern. I think your countertop is pretty; is it laminate? Do you have wallpaper in the kitchen? And are you going to use pulls on the drawers and cabinets? Either way would be just fine as where the drawers pull and the cabinets open tend to soil.
 
Toggles, I had a Lennox 2-speed heat pump in my previous house. Interestingly, the heat output on *low* blower speed DID feel very warm, likely due to the slower airflow rate through the condensor (inside, evaporator in cool mode). When the blower kicked to high speed, the air felt cooler (than on low blower), although accompanied by high-speed compressor the heat output was of course greater. I've not climbed up to check the register output directly during heat at my new house (one-speed heat pump), but I've never noticed a wind-chill effect.

My favorite thermostat thus far was a White-Rodger setback I got at Home Depot when I moved into the first house. It allowed programming continuous or auto blower on each period. The next favorite was the Lennox, which had an outdoor temp sensor that recorded the high/low each 24-hr period (auto-cleared at 12 AM), and also had a diagnostic mode that reported accumulated run-time for high-speed, low-speed, auxiliary and other such details (but I seldom checked). I'm sure I have a picture but haven't found it.

Oh and by the way, on both heat pumps, I had/have the auxiliary locked-out until the outdoor gets to 25°F or whatever is the lowest allowed setting. I'm not sure how low the ambient must get until it starts running almost continuously, but it has to be pretty low. 40°F, 36°F, even 32°F, it still cycles regularly. Bob, did you notice what was the cycling pattern when you stayed that weekend, with the "cold" snap happening? I was running the temp at 72°F both nights, IIRC. Or were you paying more attention to the dryer reversing, LOL!
 
Toggle,

What I meant to add was that heat pumps that use earth/water heat exchangers can be used far to the north of where air heat exchangers become inefficient. That's because, as I'm sure you're aware, the earth/water table stays at a fairly constant 55-60 degrees or so regardless of latitude.
 
gas/electric switch

yeah, here's what that switch does, as far as what i understand.

with a gas furnace, when the thermostat signals heat, the burners light and run for a few minutes to preheat the exchanger, then the fan starts. when the thermostat says the set temp has been reached, it shuts off the burners but keeps the fan running a few minutes to get as much residual heat out of the exchanger as possible.

when you turn the thermostat to "electric" the thermostat does not preheat the exchanger or leave the fan running after the set temp because electric furnaces are instantly hot, and practically instantly cold. so there's no need to delay the fan in any case.
that's all. i've tried it with my Hunter digital thermostat. Our apartment has a gas furnace, and when it's set to "electric" the fan delays are eliminated.
 
In my gas forced air furnace, the time delay for the fan is built into the furnace - the thermostat merely tells the furnace when heat is needed, or not needed. The wall thermostat is merely an on/off signal. So the gas/electric switch (if it exists on my Lux 1500 at all) isn't used.

One of these days I'd like to figure out how to shorten the delay on the device attached directly to the furnace. But it's in the crawl space with the furnace... not a nice place to work, and the device didn't come with any clear instructions on how to change the delay.
 
My (non-gas) system has a blower turn-off delay (but no delay for turn-on) in both heat and cool modes.

Sometimes the blower delay, particularly on a gas furnace, is controlled by a plenum or heat-exchanger thermostat. This is to prevent a blast of cold air if the blower was to start before the heat-exchanger is heated up, and to get a but more efficiency by pulling the residual heat until it cools off.
 
Show us your thermostats

The analog roundie has a heat anticipator setting that is great to tweak the heater cycle so it doesn't get too hot in the house. When I was living in that trailer I went from the default 4 to like 3.75. The slide lever was moved about 1mm but it made a difference. Then I found the Round Digital and it worked perfectly right out the box. In my new house, I set it for electric heat cycle rate and Fan on.

The t-stat in my office is a Trane which is a rebadged Honey. It's a 5-2 programmable but I just keep the setpoint held at 73 because the AC here is underpowered.

Skip, keep them window units running. Not having AC here in Lousiana is torture.
 
Jason You got that right for sure. I have to say I have one 220 and 2 110's in the house and the house believe it or not is very comfortable, as far as winter time, this old house is so well insulted that We run 3 electric radiator heaters and the house is very warm with them

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