Couple of washer questions

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tomdawg

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I have an in home day care lady that has a washer break- she doesn’t have a whole lot of money but I want to help her.

First one is an LG top load - it’s a 2015 spaceship looking kind with controls on the front. She said it wouldn’t drain. She was told that the control board and pump are both out. I went and looked at it and the pump wouldn’t turn on at all- is this really true that the control board is out? Or just a pump? A pump is like $50 compared to a new machine

The second one is a estate- one of the last direct drives. Has the Atlantis plastic tub with a kenmore agitator. I believe it’s one of those where the main wash is a large load and the rinse is a small load water level to conserve water. She also said it wouldn’t drain either. Upon diagnosis. The washer was stuck in wash mode as the bottom part wouldn’t move. I turned it on to spin and and took off. I then proceeded to find the test mode in the wash cycle to see if it would agitate and it did. My only two assumption is, she probably did a large load and when it rinsed, it was. Small load and it locked it up. Or the basket drive is probably worn out.

I know how to repair but sometimes struggle with diagnosing. Any help would be appreciated!
 
 
LG -- Check if the board is outputting proper voltage to the pump wires, whatever that voltage may be.  The pump can be pulled and test-run directly on a cheater cord if it's 120v.

Estate -- needs further observation/exam to determine the problem.  The agitator/transmission will be locked if the motor stops during agitation, it releases when the motor reverses for drain and spin.  Ordinarily sounds like a bad lid switch but it worked on your testing.  Maybe an erratic lid switch?  Later direct-drives had the lid switch in the motor circuit at all times, they fill with the lid open but nothing else.

Citing the model numbers helps with diagnostic assistance.
 
That 2015 LG should still use a simple 120V AC pump, so testing it outside the machine is possible.

But just grabbing a multi meter and checking for voltage across the 2 pins is easier.

It can happen that a PCB goes bad if a pump fails, but it's not that common.
 
On the LG I couldn’t get a reading on the pump from the control board. I had another lg pump that doesn’t pump very well but turns on. the washer didn’t turn on that “bad” pump at all.

The second on. It seemed to work fine. Turns out she just wants a new one anyways and is buying a Samsung.

Thanks you for your help!
 
she just wants a new one anyways and is buying a Samsung.

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oh man.... a new LG would have been miles better than that....
bet the current one is easily repairable too, could be as simple as something stuck in the pump :/
 
That Samsung will be lucky to last a few years before it breaks and when it does you’ll be up crap creek since replacement parts are tricky to find and often times parts are usually NLA by then to force you into buying a new machine that will only last a few years as well. People who usually want a new one are “because I felt like it” or “just want a new one” are your typical careless consumers and will start whining when their new appliance breaks..

Consumers assume as they consume and assume as they consume..
 
Re; Samsung

There are many parts available at Servall and Amazon. A few years to some of you seems to mean at least 8, because I know of several machines that old which have given trouble free service. Some used daily, others not.
Despite rumored lack of service network and techs, I see vans tooling around with the brands factory authorized service on them, as well as recent sightings of Miele service vans.
Besides, many of you own more than one washer anyway, so they all last longer because they are not used often.
With age, comes experience, at least. Also more wisdom, unless you're closed minded.
Don't mean to sound condescending, but my dad used to tell me that.
 

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